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If you can get use of one, drop it in an ultrasonic bath for an hour and watch the sh*t come off then wire brush and paint job done.

Dont forget this Wednesday some are turning up around 6pm as it will be lighter.

It maybe just a bit of dirt behind the seal so get a feeler gauge slip it in between the leg and the seal and rotate it 360deg to see if it clears anything, top up the oil and check if it still leaks.

You need to lose that bike its a money pit. Forks are fairly strait forward just may need some special tooling.

AGM/Gel batteries have a higher cranking power than lead acid and they can be mounted on there side which is useful but, cost generally twice as much. They are standard fit on FJR's & TMax's and I tell you they dont last any long than lead acid so the FJR has a lead acid one fitted and has been fine now for 3 + years.

I'll help out anyone in need.(apart from VFR's engine wise as a right pain in the arse) I'll service a bike once after that I'll expect him/her to do it them selves, other general stuff & help no problem can do most bikes fairly new to 2 strokes but apart from the engine (still learning) they are basically the same as 4 strokes. South Birmingham.

NW200 I'll be doing that this year.

My 1975 RD has MPH only and that passed?

I use Recoil system similar to Helicoil I have never had a problem with the system. Look at engineering companies not bike shops as they will do it a lot cheaper also take the bolts as it maybe a fine thread. PS. Running a tap through wont make any difference as its already weak.

A classic generally depends on the bike and how much its wanted ie. Most bikers lust after a bike they previously owned especially when there worth a bob or 2. The 90's children want RG250/500's the 80's guys all want an RD350LC in mint condition and I prefer air cooled RD's mainly 350 & 400's but others want KH's but no one really wants a CB250G5 for instant even though it was a perfectly good bike, but its still a classic due to its age. So if you want to fix up a classic it costs quite a bit of cash so make sure you pick the right bike.

DONT let them change anything on the bike until the motor is sorted & running right, otherwise its money down the drain as the bike will be just a pile of spares without a decent motor..

It should have a split link but if you cant find it just get an angle grinder to the rivets and knock the chain off and put one on with a split link job done. I dont know which model so here. http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/yamaha/ybr_125_custom/08-09/picture/chain_did_standard_grade/ Bite the bullet and get it sorted.

If its been rammed down tight which snapped the needle off I would start looking for a carb as the metering seat will be damaged.

If you are careful it can be drilled and an easy out may get the rest out but give it a good soak with Plus gas or something similar first.

The FJR vibration is due to the engine bolts being loosened off by the owner as they were worried the the frame threads would strip when fitting crash bungs. Mine does not vibrate at all and the mirrors are always clear. I did test both the Fjr & STX and both were nice the Honda is a comfy chair but has odd handling it feels like the rear is trying to over take the front also they can weave really bad, Honda didnt manage to sort it so the police stopped using them and sold off the ones they already had. The early Mk1 Fjr had a number 1 valve problem which was sorted by the time the Mk2 in 2003 came out and would have thought they were all done by now. Both had a low speed hiccup just off tick over due to the fuel injection. I dont know if it was sorted on the Honda but I have a Mk1 Fjr and it only does it slightly when really hot ambient temp 40deg Spain. I hope this helps.

I use putoline. I did this month ago.

This is correct never remove links unless its brand new. Removing links from a worn chain and refitting will eventually snap and caused damage or worse wrap around your leg.

Is it the same style as a GPz900?

Drewpy the point is to have a fixed meeting date and time in the local area, not just meet up at a show as I can do that as well but, generally don't as on a mission find old parts no time for sweet talk. Anyway here's the venue: The Blue Bell Cider House Warings Green Hockley Heath Solihull B94 6BP and has been arranged with the owner to start from the first Wednesday in March this year @ 7pm ish. All welcome but would prefer older rides if poss. (that dont mean ya missus) but she can come if you want.

Not much interest on here not many member in middle earth then...

Hi a mate and I are looking to set up a classic Jap bike meet in the Solihull area on a Wednesday about 7pm just got to have a word with the pub owner to see if its OK. Its looking to be starting around March time depending on the weather if riding. Everyone is invited classic or not. I'll keep you posted.

Check the vents on the tank are not trapped, an easy way is to open & shut the fuel cap then see if it starts 1st time. The newer FJR's are very lean burn and the CO is set low, can you increase the CO your model? as mine were set to 2.5 now at 4.5 and runs a bit cooler also most of the new models tend to run at 4 bars. As for evaporating fuel it cant as its pressure feed and doesn't have a float bowl or similar. Lastly do you try and start the bike immediately as you should let it do a system check before hitting the starter button.

Rust is basically an oxidized metal. As heat is generated by the friction of rubbing the aluminium foil on the chrome, a portion of the aluminium will oxidise to produce an aluminium oxide. Aluminium has a higher reduction potential than the chrome, and will therefore take oxygen atoms away from any rust on the chrome surface which changes the chemical properties of the rust and breaks it down. Some people use coke but you don't really need too.

You shouldn't need to re-apply every time unless you are using a detergent just rinse off the dirt.

Dont buy anything! Try this get some kitchen foil fold it to a useable size put some water on the rim and rub you'll be surprised its a chemical thing it just removes the rust without damaging the chrome.