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Fitted the exhaust today, can't believe how quiet it is with the correct exhaust on! £20.........I look like the Cheshire cat!

Good news all around..... Stripped the top end down and replaced the base gasket, cleaned the piston and rings (might as well) Installed new reeds and new inlet rubber and then started her up, sounds sweet again! nice tick over and started practically first kick. No lean runaway (although won't be able to confirm that until she's hot again when I go to work tomorrow but no reason to doubt It hasn't been solved) Then I proceeded to install a replacement original exhaust system courtesy of some chap i met at the petrol station. See this post for details And now it sounds amazingly quiet!!...... boy did I have a noisy end can before!! Now its all done... I'm going to have a lay down in the sunshine and top up my tan as I doubt this weather will last much longer!

Riding home about a week ago, filled up with petrol and as i returned to the bike there was a bloke standing next to the DT and he said "This your bike?" Immediately thinking "What have i done?" oR "oh shit.. now what?" I replied , eeerrrr yeah. ((In retrospect I could have said "No mate i walk around in leathers and helmet cos I ride a horse!!!"....although good job I didn't!...............)) He replied....."I used to have an identical one and I've got a complete exhaust for one of these at home you can have!!!..........." Just been to pick it up, sure enough complete original exhaust for £20........Result! Down pipes had a repair and its got a pinhole but its better than mine!! just goes to show that just because some blokes looking at your bike it might turn out better than you thought! I shall get it repaired and fit it on......Nice start to the day eh?

or write to EBC? http://ebcbrakes.com/contact-ebc/

Etats Unidos????

First... are you sure the bulb is ACTUALLY working? filaments intact visually is NOT a guarantee! Here's a post i did from someones similar problem............. (Here's my post repeated here) Get a short length of wire, attach one end to the +ve battery terminal, hold the headlight bulb metal casing to the -ve terminal. then touch each of the bulb contacts with the wire end. The dip and beam filaments will glow with equal brightness, proving the bulb is OK. If both filaments are working then YOU know by elimination it is the circuit of the main beam which has the problem. A likely source of the problem is the electrical contacts within the light switch, which selects dip or beam. You see it is one power wire from the battery which is diverted to either the dip or beam filament within the switch. Dirty contacts within the switch prevent the current flowing, thats what Airhead is suggesting to you. Testing the bulb as above will confirm the bulb is in good order.

Traced the faults......................AIRLEAKS. Blowing or sucking!...... the cylinder head base gasket leaking. and cracked carb inlet rubber joining the carb to cylinder head. Smeared builders silicone around the base gasket and over the carb rubber. Whilst it only lasted one journey and a bit before coming adrift, the engine didn't runaway. However, once the heat took it off when I came home and stopped and got off the bike...........off she went!! Problem isolated at least. Purchased new gaskets and inlet rubber and a set of new reeds (might as well change them) so should be a permanent fix. Its actually probably been leaking for longer than I thought. I've turned into a detective!...... The clue was getting off the bike to unlock the gate. Up until last week my wife has been opening the gate before I got home so i could ride straight in, of course as soon as i was in i killed the engine at low revs. it never did a runaway. It was only as the nights have drawn in I said leave the gate to me. which meant getting off the bike and walking away from it. those 20 seconds or so of tick over and air leak resulted in the runaway. So Holmes thats what happens...said watson!

Been busy 'googling' this problem, eventually found what appears to be the problem.........anyone heard of LEAN RUNAWAY? Its often related to AIRLEAKS just as cynic suggested. According to various websites:- Although not a complete answer in this post it points to leaking seals and inlet rubbers as a possible source of the problem http://www.allthingsmoto.com/forums/f-30/dt175-poor-idle-run-away-reving-help-43078/ other sources altering the mixture/air ratio..... fuel related runaway When you start to run out of gas, your fuel/air mixture can lean out. A lean mixture will increase combustion tempuratures. So basically, when you lean out, your bike will begin to produce more heat. This extra heat creates a hot spot inside the combustion chamber, usually the tip of the spark plug. It gets RED hot, hot enough to ignite the fuel without a spark. Now it's running on it's own, which creates even more heat. More heat means the tip of the spark plug gets even HOTTER, which ignites the fuel even easier, which creates more heat, ect... This is why it is called a runaway, it feeds on itself. Hitting the kill switch or pulling the spark plug wire doesn't fix the problem, because it's not running off the spark anymore. http://www.atvriders.com/vbb/archive/index.php/t-105214.html The solution of stopping the runaway........ not the cure Ok for all you 2 strokers that has had this happen... Do this:- turn off ignition and or kill switch and pin the throttle wide open! The second that you do this the lean condition gets eliminated and the engine will die. This is provided that the bike has proper main jets or on the rich side. Runaway engines happens when the conditions are just perfect with being too lean and the sparkplug becomes a glowplug. When a engine has a proper fuel ratio the fuel will kill the glowplugging and if the ignition is off the engine just shutdowns and dies. Chuck Team Scream Racing http://www.2strokeworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=18755.5;wap2

Thanks for your replies so far... I've been also 'googling' theres a chap on the ATM website who describes the SAME problem, but as usual doesn't come back to say how it was fixed http://www.allthingsmoto.com/forums/f-30/dt175-poor-idle-run-away-reving-help-43078/ The answer at the end about a new choke is identical to the same reply on another DT175 post the poster has the same name. Probably works for the company which sells chokes! It's happened again today!! but I was sitting on the bike this time, ie I didn't get off and put it on the side stand! Looks like I need to get my spanners out!!!!!!!!!!!....................

Hi Guys Heres a mystery problem. Past week I've had an unexplained engine problem. Happened twice now!!! Nothings changed recently,( other than new carb needle and jets back in February) but its been ok since then. 1st occurrence. Rode bike home 7miles no problem. Got to the back gate, got off bike with the engine ticking over and used the headlight to unlock the gate. Whilst I was off the bike and by the gate the engine started to race away, nobody was on it!!! it was if some one had pulled open the throttle! My thoughts instantly was perhaps the steering whilst parked was somehow affecting the cable,, quickly returning to the bike and setting the bike straight the bike continued to rev faster and faster, I switched the engine kill, and it seemed to continue!!!! pulled out the keys, no effect! PANIC!!!! Then put it in gear, braked hard and stalled it!........weird or what? Same things just happened!! 11:00pm at night with my bike racing and nobody on it!! but it was ticking over when i got off and walked away and the steering was straight ahead..... I was 8 ft away when all of a sudden the engine started racing away. very rapidly going from tick over to screaming!!! same scenario as above. What the F.......is going on? .........................................................................Poltergeist?

I assume the lights were working 'perfectly' before you changed the bulb? so in that sense NOTHING has changed....other than the bulb. Therefore we can assume the feed wiring and earths have not been disturbed? If so, then it all points to the bulb, have you simply tried another? yes, you're right in that the bulb has offset pins so it can only go one way in to the holder and I assume you have turned it by a quater of a turn to lock it in place. The bulb has 2 contacts and once inserted into the holder those contacts need to touch the two contacts in the holder the 1/4 turn achieves this. However, the two contacts are separate circuits, one does the brake the other the tail light. Each circuit cannot normally make 'live' the two contacts of the bulb unless the contacts are in someway touching both . ie not turned in the holder properly It does point to the bulb if nothing else has changed. alternatively....if the wirings been disturbed then 'poor earthing' is often a culprit. but you can narrow it down by a little detective work.....i.e which circuit is at fault. You say both elements are 'on' (you need to be specific as we're not there with you.....) Do you mean the when you apply the brake or turn on the lights? either way , what happens when you apply the brake? or visa versa. what happens when you apply just the brake, i.e with the lights OFF.? hope this helps.

I recently replaced my fork seals on my 400/4 about a month ago. Assuming your forks are standard with the stanchions fitted on top, which means your seals fit into the lower forks spring side down. They fit about the thickness of a seal down inside the fork, not flush with the top. A common cause of leakage is rust spots on the chrome stanchions sliding over the seal, this rough surface can score and damage the seal or simply prevent a good seal, and they leak. Check the condition of the chrome its got to be smooth.

Hi mar , welcome to the club, I'm sure Sacha and katie will be pleased to have another female around!

'kin Hell !!!!!! One lucky rider! plus..............300th post for me!!!

This post might help, he's got the same bike, circuit diagram at the bottom.

The might look awful to you, but they DO serve a purpose.......they tell everyone that you're still learning...and car drivers (who make up the majority) tend to give you a wider berth, it's got nothing to do with knocking you over! they just don't want YOU to scratch their nice shiney cars. However, learner drivers tend to be involved in quite a few accidents, that's one reason why they have higher insurance. The police might never pull you over, thats true...........BUT they do speak to you in A&E if you are unfortunate to have an accident, and they will be asking you several questions. The traffic police tend to be very eagle eyed, they look at detail like:- I noticed you've only got one L plate on, or I couldn't find the other one or indeed there was no evidence to suggest you had one on before the crash. As the others have said, don't draw attention to yourself, its not worth it, Nobody wants you to have an accident and you might never be pulled over, but once you finally passed your test, you will get much satisfaction at ripping off two L plates instead of one . Although after that you also might notice.......... just how much closer the car drivers are! Good luck and happy riding.

Had them apart jimmy in the past, My first one was a 1961 lambretta unbelievable how it worked as there was hardly any parts inside! surprised it worked at all just a coil, needle and one magnet, Talk about simplicity! However, you're not wrong in your assumption as the odometer is a worm drive which turns the number cogs over and that is driven by the cable and a gear or two. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ And before anyone says about putting a drill on the end to wind the clock on, its an old wives tale! At best you could make the speedo go up to 40 mph! if you're lucky! which also means it will take one hour to advance the odometer 40 miles, ie 40 miles in one hour! Even if you could make it do 100mph it will still only advance the clock by 100 miles after an hour! You can't 'clock it' with a drill, it will take years!, the only thing you can do is take the number cogs out and reset them back into 0000 line!

OOhhhh am I Real biker then?

I used Plasticote BBQ paint on Airheads recommendation on my DT's exhaust pipe. However, within 6 inches of the cyclinder head I find it tends to burn off after a few months. The rest of the pipe is fine, I just re apply it when it looks a bit tat! The cylinder head was painted with Simonez Engine paint and has lasted well on the aluminium however, it too burned off from the first 6 inches of the exhaust.

You won't have caused any damage,... The drive cable turns a mechanism inside the speedo, which in turn creates a magnetic field, The needle part is attached to a coil (like a clock spring and as thin as one) which responds to the changes in the field, whilst the needle will be up against the stop, it won't be being wound up by the mechanical parts! it will survive.

I wrote this original post back in 2011 and the price doesn't seem to have changed! £120 for two and mine was around £130 which included postage. Anyone fancy resurrecting my post on DT 12volt conversion? NB Jeeeesuzzzzzz I've just seen its been read over 27,700 times and is in the top 4 of the most read in the workshop section!! now if only i had a £1 for every read..............................(this time next year Rodney we'll be millionaires!)

My Honda clocks were sealed in the same way with a chrome ring crimped on at manufacture creating a 'sealed for life' component I couldn't get mine off, So I used a Dremel and cut through the ring. Restored the clock and soldered on 2 tags at 90 degree to the ring and screwed them back together with a miniature nut and bolt. I covered the join in car body filler and added a bit of black and silver paint to 'hide' it. that was over 20 years ago and its still together. Here's a photo of the ring so you can see the' join' although I could have hidden it around the side next to the 'dashboard lights'

Then I think we're not talking about the same part! Mines an M10 bolt for sure. Replacing part no 17 http://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-dt175f-1979_model8692/pinwith-hole_9024012059/ On the upper swinging arm to shock pin. Its Not an M6 mm bolt.

I had the same trouble trying to source one back in 2011 for my round tube swing arm. I ended up using an M10 Stainless Steel bolt about 20cm long with a long plain shank, I cut off the threaded part and drilled a hole in the side for a split pin. (surprisingly easy to drill with a new bit) It was a nice snug fit, no play, and is still there today. Works a treat. The plain shaft has a diameter of 12mm same as the original. Cost was a few pound on ebay i think I bought a pack of two.

Now where did HE go?