neversaydie

I hear that examiners arent allowed to remove items, what they cant see or get to, they cant fail. My YX600 had gaiters fitted (forks were good anyway), examiners never took em off or asked me to remove them. Kept the crap off the forks too

Check the fuse(s)

Are the plugs dry or wet when you take them out. Take em out as soon as youve done cranking and check

Cosworth were mostly associated with motor car racing a lot of work with Ford in the 70s and 80s. Many of us older chappies will remeber the sierra cosworth/escort cosworth etc. Wasnt aware they worked with the bike manufacturers

Are both plugs sparking now? Double check youve got the correct ignition coil going to the correct cylinder and check youve not got a fuel pipe pinched somewhere

For the pick up coil check you need to measure on the pick up coil side of the connector. Depending on the year of the bike, 1987 to 1993 should read 140 to 170 ohms. 1994 -on should be 182 to 222 ohms I have to say, the wire colours dont match with the drawings ive seen, but judging by the state of the wiring, its possible its been "worked on" over the years. Your making progress. I reckon theirs a good chance the stator is ok looking at the readings. The readings to earth of the 3 whites of 1 means massive resistance ie no connection to earth (off the scale of the meter) If I were in your shoes, and before i do anything else, Id get rid of those crap connectors and replace them with bullet type. Cut back all the black copper back to good, crimp and solder on the bullets (after sliding on some heat shrink sleeving). Get your hair dryer on the heat shrink. When the wiring is all good, then look at the ignition coils. Double check for good clean connections, and make sure that whre the coils are mounted on the frame, that the mounting is good, clean and secure as thats the earth for them.

According to the book, resistance is 10,000 ohms

If youve carried out the test correctly, then the RR may be good Check stator as described now

Nope You also need to do Step 4 on the Electrex fault finding chart, to try to isolate a possible RR fault

If my failing memory hasnt completely let me down, your stator should have three white cables leading from it to a plug connector. It should also have two further cbales kleading to a seperate plug connecotr, most likely these may be red and green. If the stator is still in the bike, do the following. Unplug both the white and the red/green plugs from their mating connectors Set the meter at the sign that looks like a horseshoe Measure between white 1 to white 2 Measure between white 1 to white 3 Measure between white 2 to white 3 Stick the black lead onto a good clean earthing point on the bike, and measure between white 1 to earth, white 2 to earth, white 3 to earth Measure between the red and the green cables Post the figures up to see Might be an advantage to post up some piccys too

Hes started another thread in the workshop section now Jimmy "Three White Wires"

Ive always found these two links to be useful sources of info for fault finding. They are not copyright, they are freely available http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/library/diagnosis/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acatalog/Troubleshooting-3P-PMG-&-RR.pdf

Secondary readings are in the thousands, so youll have to switch your meter to read in that range. Normally, the ohms (resistnace) range scales up in factors of ten, so hopefully your meter will have a dial that looks like this resistance range is the one with the horsehoe. Primary is measured with the dial set at 200. Secondary (12k to 14.5k), move your setting to 20k (k = 1,000) Your meter may differ and may read 100/1k/10k/100k etc. In that case, you would set at 100k as 10k would be too low. Unless youve got a really good meter with just one range Always zero your meter first, or check by holding the probes together and ensure it reads zero By the way, id be concerned that the new ones only read 2.1 Hope this helps

Dont have the info for the xv125, but the xvs125 is: Primary: 3.4 - 4.8 ohms @ 20 degrees C Secondary: 10,400 - 16,800 @ 20 degrees C Cant imagine that the xv would differ enough from those figures

Dont compare the readings between the new and the old. Resistances for the new should be: Primary: 3.8 to 4.6 ohms @20 degrees C Secondary: 12,000 to 14,500 ohms @ 20 degrees C Take the plug cap off for checking the secondary

Rather than spend time and money cleaning up, cant you get replacements from your local bolt stockist?

Unlucky? No. Riding on a flat tyre is likely to have chuffed the wheel up, and is the likely cause of the slow leak due to the damage. Best bet was to remove the wheel and take it in for tyre fitment. If youd had an accidnet, its likely your insurance may have been invalidated I dont laugh at anyone on two wheels

Yes it does. On the throttle control unit

Does the bike have a Kill Switch?

If youve taken the piston out and not replaced the seals, theres a chance that the old seals have "swelled" once the piston was out. . If it were me, Id have the old seals out, thoroughly clean everything, check the piston fits ok before fitting the new seals in. Then refit all

Try here for repair http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/cgi-bin/ss000001.pl?page=search&SS=sr125&ACTION=Search&PR=-1&TB=A Or here http://www.carmoelectronics.co.uk/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=497_514_2129_2445 Google for possibilities

Depends on how high and wide the mirrors are relative to you body position. As an example, the mirrors on my virago are good (low ride/high wi dish bars) .The fazer mirrors are poor (higher ride/mirrors lower and less wide. Have a search for Riderscan mirror

Old man chillin out in the sunshine

No 1 bike of the day for me was this one. Just beautiful to look at

Its tomoroow for me, looks to be the best day for weather. Not much on the shopping list this year, cant be much ive not got. On the list though, are knee sliders, PlusGas (if its still made), WD40, maybe a decent pair of short gloves, and anything that takes my fancy.