Cynic

If you mean by movement the con rod moving about a bit left to right then yes thats fine, there should be NO movement up and down. You say the piston is 'fecked', how so? the type of damage might lead us to the reason for the failure.....

When they restored the XT500 in CMM they had it coated with some sort of ceramic. Apparently it will last for ages and keep looking original. I dont think its cheap but looks like that DT could be worth it.

Back again, quick update. Had one of those silly thoughts, y'know the one. 'Well if i'm sorting the motor out nice i really should......' . Its an open ended sentance as it doesent seem to stop. I now have a completely stripped frame in the garage a sw arm with a mutilated (due to being solid) sw arm spindle and the rest of the bike spread around the garage. I started to build the bottom end of the engine back up tonight, same again, crank in the freezer and on orders from the kitchen a heat gun ( i know when i'm beat) and the crank slid in loverly. I have the new seals and bearings in and they feel smoooooooooth. I think those mains have been rough for a long while. I very nearly forgot that bloody o ring on the crank too. There is a company local to me who can sort the barrel for me so that will be away to be fixed up. I'm going to have 8mm studs put in. A common mod on the IT by all accounts, (anybody knows better shout) cos they snap the 6's. I have a few pics of the carnage in the garage so far and i'll lob them up over the weekend.

Would that be 2 or 4 stroke?????

WF as far as DT punishment goes i'm pretty high on the list myself, i had a DT50m the one before yours on a w plate and on a good day she would crack 70mph. Recorded officially by a plod at 64 on a speed gun. (points mean prizes) On a ok day it would be an unridable pain in the arse and on a bad day bits of expensive ally generally got spat out the pipe.............

Dispicable, shouldnt be allowed in a modern honest and upstanding society........

Yep 'full chat' is full throttle, he said he was on full throttle for 3-4 miles and in the other thread he said he was on a DC. I would have said that will knacker ANY stroker.

What colour is the smoke could it not be mixture, also the fact that putting it on its stand affected things. Have you done anything with the carbs?

The mixture screw doesent do much if anything at full chat its all on the main jet. Old strokers like these are not designed to be held flat out for long periods. Mind if you held your car flat out at max rpm how long would that last?

Struth man its not an R6, ALL motorcycles will stand up on the brakes in a corner and as for going from breaking to power with the bike on its side, accident waiting to happen. If you are riding like this on tarmac you are going to crash at some point you are talking about backing it in. That is for racetracks and better bikes than the one you have, and i can't see you using a cat at a trackday. You get all the breaking done real early like before the corner then feed the throttle in, gentle like. As a bike is much more stable on power with weight to the rear, the suspention is compressed and stable ready for the exit and then after you have made the apex (if you must) as the bike starts to come up back onto the fatter part of the tyre give it some beans in a solid controlled increace. Get that lot right you will be leaving darkies and destroying kneesliders if thats your thing as there is no faster way round your favorite bends. Or you can go in at a billion miles an hour break right up to the very last which leaves absoloutely no spare for Justin (Case), then you are leaned over you upset the bike with a massive weight transfer you are bullying the bike down, the suspention goes all messy as you have gone from breaking to throttle. at best the bike will feel loose and unstable probably weaving about a bit, goodbye apex. You get nervous, tense up and you are in trouble. Cos you are tense the bike wont respond,you go straight on, hello hedge. If you are lucky. Do yourself a favour and go do a day at a track with an instructor, improved my riding beyond all measure.

+2

I bet the bloody car test is never that exhaustive. We have more injuries cos we don't have a metal box round us and the less experienced get walloped more cos they can't see the hazards untill its too late for them. The fact that the greater part of these hazards are CAUSED by the miopic wan#ers in their metal boxes seems to be lost.

Most sensible and honest post i've heard in a long time, more power to you.

Got a complete DT front end in my garage what do you want? Disc forks yolks the lot. Going to fleabay it next week.

So you can ride all day on a fivers worth of gas and your moaning Saying you get a full day is useless, how many miles ACCURATELY, don't guess, and in what conditions. Trails, A road or motocross track.......??

When my suzuki was MOT'd the tester said it was nice to see a fully faired bike that was as clean on the inside of the fairings as the outside. All i do is clean all the panels when there off and the bike when she's serviced (by me ) at the start of the year. You know there are no nasty surprises waiting to jump at you either cos you didn't leave it all to a dealer. I've said it before and much as there are good bike mech's out there you only need 1 bad one to screw your bike.

Got to admit i'm struggling to see the difference, looks identical to mine i'll have a proper look tomorrow.

The voltage regulator is a Zener diode that holds a voltage constant by leaking current to earth via resistance. It cannot be checked without proper test equipment except by substitution. Three hundred beer tokens is a bit rich, they do come up, i bagged one off ebay for mine for £30. You can get generic 6 and 12 volt regulators for nowhere near that price it just depends if you want originality or just a working bike. It would be better if you could try a working item to prove the problem before laying out on a new one as they are pretty reliable.

Unlucky, although considering how far out the fueling was on mine b4 i took it down i don't think a couple of turns on the mixture screw did it, i managed to do what you did about 15 years ago and that was down to the fact that the engine don't take any notice of the red line on the taco, she would hapily run to 9500 even 10000rpm and i did EXACTLY what you did. Smeared the rings down the piston and heat siezed her. On a dual carriageway the other side of Milton Keynes. Its to do with the engine not being able to get rid of the heat fast enough at higher rpm and the ally piston swells more than the steel sleeve in the barrel and nips. You can either ride the torque and plod or have a race bike but not in between, for dual carriageway flat out stuff at high rpm set the mixture (needle height main jet) so you get a nice rich colour on the plug at full chat. The extra fuel keeps the combustion temp down and therefore the engine stays cooler. The only prob then is the bike will be unresponsive at lower rpm because she will be massively rich ( bit like a 350 ypvs with the servo stuck wide open) at lower revs. Or keep the revs lower i kept to about 8500 on longer runs. Or avoid the DC and use the country roads and thrash away.......

Hi welcome to the boards, we don't ACTUALLY slaughter people on here. More slowly roast..... Just don't upset Goff?? Anyho your 125, don't bother if you plan on doing the A2 test, buy a cheap wrecker to get the expeience and your test sorted, an old trailee or something (make the test as easy as poss) and keep your money for the 535 which you can have restricted. It will be FAR better and faster than a 125 drag even restricted.

I know this kind of working iritates some but bear with me as this has worked in the past on the same problem i had on a DT 50m. There was a small plastic washer i had missed allowing the points to earth. Get a nice long jumper lead from the positive on the battery and connect it to the coil breifly and dissconnect. Should generate a spark, thus proving the coil. Now connect the black white whatever wire that connects to the coil and spash the power on to the next point down in the harness, this should also generate a spark. Carry on through the loom as necessary till you get to the points, where the coil stops showing a spark will be the problem, I know its not exactly an approved Yamaha method but its effective in these older systems that dont have any electronics. Also make sure you have a fuse in the line , if there is a dead short in the system somewhere rather than a broken wire you dont want to fry the loom.

Chequerd Flag Extreem Motorcycles The Old Lcw Site 541 Halifax Road Halifax West Yorkshire HX3 8ER Tel: 01422 202665 Fax: 01422 202668 Open Monday-Saturday 9am-8pm Sunday 10.30am-6pm Got loads in all sorts of spec, most fully restored others race tuned, all mint or very nearly and bloody expensive. But if they are as good as they say its prob worth it. Up to you.

Don't know but i've got one leaning against the wall in my garage if you have some critical measurements (spindle dia, hub width etc) or photo's i can have a look.

They die just as fast if they are not maintained properly.

Sounds to me like the points are not opperating as they should. With the ig on if you manually open the points you should see a spark at the plug, and to a lesser extent at the points as well. Take out the plug, or use a spare and have it set so you can see any spark. Then pull the connector plug to the stator with the ig on, this should cause a spark if i'm on the right track. What you are seeing from the generator is potential difference (voltage) not power of any discription, this will dissapate in the coil readily enough. Its when that potential is shut OFF that the magic happens in the coil and the spark is created.