cterror

aah.. ok. we call them A1 and A card´s. A1 is restricted to 11Kw (16years) and you can get an A card when you are 18 years old. then the limit is 25Kw and when your 20 you can drive anything. i dont even know what you have to pass becource i got my license back in the old days when you could drive anything once you were 18. and you could drive any 125cc when 16. no power limits back then.

you should check engine for marks of it being opened. then ask why. when you test drive it, take it somewhere a bit away from owner and then park it, give it a goooood hard whacking of throthle and look for blue/bluish smoke from exhaust. test 2. when riding the bike, ride through all gears up and down. look especially for 2. gear failure. if it popps to neutral, or you see any marks of blue comming out of exhaust... do not buy that bike. other than that its pretty basic. test front wheel bearings, rear wheel bearings, steering bearings. dont concentrate on reartire being new or such stupid things people watch. rubbers wear, as do chains and soforth... you just want to be shure that the most expensive equipment of your bike... the engine works just like it should. oh.. and it would be nice if the seller had some service history available.

i just have to ask... whats an 33 brake test?

*LOL* well thats the reason why my bike is still matt-black. i´ll rather spend 100€ to a new camchain than repaint the thing

im most bikes you can use whatever oil you please. most of the clutches work just fine. there is however one principal difference in bike and car oils. first some tech info cars use dry clutches as well as BMW bikes, goldwings and few other bikes have wet and the same oil which lubrikates your engine, also cools down the clutch. now in order to have your toyota engine last for as long as possible, you have to have friction reducing components in your oil. this works just fine as nothing inside an car engine is supposed to benefit from friction. this is not the case in a bike engine. you will like to have as small friction as possible, and at the same time not as much friction reducing to have your clutch slipping. as i said. this is not a problem in most bikes. there are however some bike models that have by factory spex an weak on insufficent clutch. these bikes include: cbr 900 rr fzr 1000exup and pre yzf 750 fj 1200/1100 kawa 1000J kawa gpz1100 kawa zx10 kawa zzr1100 ninja 900/1000 im not saying that your bike would not work with car oil, im just saying that it is an quite un-necessary risk as the yearly oil consumption can´t be that much peace guys

aaaaaa.... i couldn resist to ask this!!!!. Did your elbow touch the ground like this 8)

actually i´ve done the mod back in 99. just the overbore to wis 1040cc this time.

you can do both of those thing´s. they are roughly at the same difficulty level but why would you do it? do you need more grunt? can you handle the 125hp yzf produces? its nice of cource but you´ll get all sorts of trouble before it works the way that its supposed to do. if i were you, id get myself a set of keihin fcr 41 carburators (400-1500€), overbore pistons (400-800€), a good headwork (800-1000€), an steeringdampfer (300€) and an nice set of Rennsport 120/180 sticky rubbers. i would get faster bike then the yzf/fzr1000 conversion, and with better driveability. the cost 1900-3600€ is roughly the same as when you start to change the engine. of course you can overbore the 1000 and then... but its a lot of €€€€ just a thought....

mate. you are driving an god given yamaha and it requires sertain things from You! -do not ever. at any circumstances. by any chance put car oil in your bike! you will end up writing to this forum about Massive clutch slipping/burning issues and i cant be arsed to answer to those - use castrol RS superbike if you can get it somewhere. - do not use castrol GPS. you will get clutch slipping and end up writing.... and so forth thats about it. one more thing - do not believe your mates stories unless they drive an Fzr1000 or Yzf750. they are special.

i have so far missed abt 10 PERFECT Track-day´s this spring!!! :x luckily this no-go-period will soon be at end. just (20mins ago) i finally put my 1040 wisecos in place (yes. inside freshly bored cylinder´s) and now the only thing between ME and THE TRACK™ are 4 pairs of valveseals that have not yet found their way into my head :wink: . once that´s sorted out. hopefully by the end of this week.... UUUUuuuuUUUu too tha track. No sorry mate. im not a wannabe rossi... why´d U ask

alex you´ll be a happy man selebrating your 40th birthday

jep. and drive it _properly_ ! every gear accel / motorbrake. look carefully to second gear changes. in case you find any neutrals more than the one there should be, forget it. othervise than that... its an avesome bike!

i have to confess.. i have an toyota avensis tdi -00. diesels are great for company cars. low gas cost and high miles. i have 234th km in the clock and never changed anything but oil, filters and cambelt i really do not like car tungin and youd have to have an 1000bhp car to get even close to bike accel.... hence diesel

PB (performance bikes), BIKE mag and BOMBER mag (streetfighters)

it might be that the only non-removable subframe was in 93 mod but im not fully certain about this. i dont think that any of the yzfs came with an ohlins - labeled rearshock. the std one has the external unit as well. hopefully it really says ohlins on the shock on your bike!! and not just some stickers on the oem one. to be quite frank, the biggest difference in sp and r are the carburators and the gearbox. everything else can be compensated quite easily. ah.. and there´s one thing more. on the right hand side of the frame, just besides front trippleclamps theres the "type-shield"... or whotever the hell is called in english... whish says the frame code of your bike. on mine it says YZF750SP, framenumber 000.....288.

i have been. abt 4 years ago. its an very beautyful country, especially the western coastline, but bevare... its also unbeleavably expencive to travel there. you better locate inexpencive hotels/motels beforehand. other than that, just go for it. well worth the money

Adjustable 3-ways. 2 adjustments on top (preload+compression) and one at bottom for rebound. the sus linkages have 2 mounting points in sp. and the upper shock mount (in your case the ohlins upper mount) is addjustable in sp (bolt mounted). it should not be addjustable in the R model (welded). Im quite positive that you dont have the KEIHIN FCR´s, but mikuni 38mm´s. If you can hammer down your throttle below 6000rpm and the bike does not splutter and die, they are not keihins . all yzf750´s have 6-speed tranny but internal gearing is different in SP. cant remember the gear-ratios, but this can be verified from Yzf race-KIT-manual. the sp rear-fairing is permanent 1-seat unit. as the race fairing kits.

Yes why do i own the damn thing bcs it was the best bargain for me. And becourse its an quite rare bike and i like rare things. wouldnt buy an cbr600f ever.

well. - sp has fully adjustable front suspension (honestly dont know if -94 R has too, 93 doesnt) - sp has addjustable svingarm linkage - sp has addjustable rear riding height - sp has 39mm Keihin FCR aka Flatslide carburators - sp has different 6-speed tranny. different inner gearing. - sp only has driver seat, hence sp. single place. - sp has removable rear subframe. some models and years of R has this too. thats about it. faster, lighter bcs missing rear seat (2kg) and more track ready in many ways. its yam´s answer to kawasakis zxr 750 rr (the singleplace)

looks a bit like those supermono bikes of yam/ducati etc.

well. heres one. i should think that the link works thou...

congrats for the new bike! looks stunning and the fun/ride-factor is totally something else in those dualpurpose bikes. just install some touratech aluminium bags, large oilcooler, large tank and off you go to the africa

some small additions. fairings cut and bolted in place. engine still at garage but my wiseco 1040 set should be here tomorrow. http://www.bikepics.com/members/cterror/93yzf750/

i know you appriciate the _non chaindrive bikes_, so it will be a BMW. just go and trye out an r1150gs and you are an gooner;). relatively cheap and very very trustworthy for long streches. or the r1100rt if you do not like the height of the gs. my father in law has one r1100rt -99 and i have to say that its probably the best touring bike ive ever tried. just about everything is placed the way that you can just relax and enjoy the travel.