cterror

the old pre-exup engine is a bit more vibrating than the newer one... and still the t-ace owners keep saying that it vibrates. nothing really you can do to it. carb balancing as said before. also a bit of help if you change the handlebar grips to "soft" ones. and add some massive antivibration endbars. no carbon here

sebimoto.de or valtermoto.it both have the 04 R1 fairings and panels available. please remember to specify that the items are going to an road bike and need to be finished. sebimoto calls this "look" versions, and they cost 10% extra. while your at it... why not take carbon ones. my frontfender looks avesome!

now that´s an proper race engine.... and as it is, its going to create a major leak in your wallet. i cant see that engine lasting for 3000 miles without rebuild. its an singlemindedly built race engine and a buyer of such should either deal with the huge cost´s of running it or install it to an yzf750sp frame (mint condition) and only take it out for show purposes. personally im quite happy with the fzr1000 lump that can be brought to 150 rearwheel hp without seriously messing the reliability.

the Y00/01 R1´s are the best vintage of R1. More fun to drive than the 02/03 efi´s and more reliable/stable than first 98/99´s. Cant really say anything about the 04-05 models yet. if you have an opportunity to buy ab quality 01 r1 just go for it. and as for the r6 thingi... you´ll regret the missing oomph sometime. probably not in the first 2 years but eventually you will. buy the R1!

No. sorry. havent seen it done on an Ace. I just heard that someones been doing it on t-ace mailinglist. heres an fzr400 (similar type airbox as ace) ram-air page. actually quite good ref. page for any ram-air mods. www.bdkraceeng.com/Ram-Air%20Systems.html

you could search for the yamaha r1 factory racekit manual. the large enginepackage holds new cams. that would help for starters. valves should be "3-way cut"... havent got an clue what thats in english. but i think you understand. the basic thing to do for valves in order to have better flow. also you should use race-spec valvesprings. especially with new cams. i would not change to stainless valves or ti-valves. the originals with new 3-way cut does the thing. if you plan to custom order cams with some lift you really should know a lot of r1 engine and theres still the terrible possibility that they do not work well with your specific pipe/carb/whatever. and if you lift enaugh, valves will collide with pistons... auh.. as you said... its a lot of money for the head only. why not trye to buy an used set of R1 factory race-kit. they are bound to be for sale at roadrace klubs or similar as R1´s been raced for several years now. trye google-search for roadrace-teams nearby. ... ps... the mc express turbo-kit for R1 costs 38000sek / 2800£ ... and guaranteed for 220bhp. bolt on.

sorry i cant help you with the subframe... sold mine last summer. trye e-bay. i asked and got 30eur off my subframe.

first i would have suggested air-leak in intakemanifolds, but if you have balanced it, thats not the problem. it could be intake-valves if you have not checked valve-clearances then do it right away. the other thing it can be is that your cam-chain has jumped one sprocket or few. this sounds really stupid but i have seen an fzr600r with the symptoms above and when i opened it, the lait owner had changed the chain by himself and wrong.... id open the head if i where you. you can pre-check it with compression tester before opening anything.

... and that´s just the std disks. wanna have a pair of snowflakes for a 500€ bargain

actually... the R7 EFI injection is a complex one. it is an twin-injection with longer and shorter injectors, yelding power to the whole powerband more equally than R1 carbs (the old98-R1), and even more so than the EFI in the new R1. have to agree you with the YZR500rep thou

this is true! but honestly who would buy an 20th eur bike and not throw in the 3-4th eur to make the bike lightningfast??! and there is one other thing about the fastness of an bike at racetrack.... even if you had an R7 and an R1 putting out equal amount of power and both weighting the absolute same, the R7 would still be quicker at track. This is becourse of an larger displacement engine needs larger internal parts, and there is really no option for this (except with F1/MotoGP tech), hence making the bike with the larger displacement engine slower in turns, in direction changes and making the bike handle "as a bigger bike". thats just physics and there is no way around them

you are mixing up.... the r71 means an R1 bike, with R7 looks (fairings, lights etc) not the other way around. what you are describing would be an R17... ie.. a R7 bike with R1 engine.... pros would be that no one has an bike like that since the genuine R7, with the 750 engine is capable of makin +150 hp @ rearwheel and the R1 engine hardly puts over 140hp @ rearwheel. plus the R7 engine is WAY WAY more sophisticated and much lighter, hence making the bike seriously faster at the race-track. so... if i ever catch one stupid motha.... piip... putting an R1 serie-engine to an R7 and remove the state of the art 750 engine i think i have to hit him with something blunt and heavy :x besides that its just bloody stupid to make an R17 its going to be quite costy since genuine R7´s run for around 20 000 euros while an R1 can be bought for 5-6th eur. the other enginechange that you describe (R1 engine in an R6) makes somewhat more sense but not much. the R1 frame does not weight 5kg more that the R6 frame so theres not really any point in doing this. its marginally bigger but just for the kicks of it one could possibly place an R1 engine in an R6. no point really.... what you could do is putting the avesome R7 fairings into an R1 or R6, putting in an turbo-charger and all this within 12000euros, thus creating an avesomelooking bike that has 220 genuine hp @ rearwheel.... peace

The clutch in fzr/t-ace is a bit on the weak side and is prone to failure at some time. its hovewer quite easy to change and does not cost much. the iron disks rarely needs replacing, its the clutch plates and clutch-basket springs that need replacement. total cost will be around 100€ for plates and springs. remember to soak the new clutchplates in oil for at least 24h before putting them in. and allways change oil and filter at the same time.

as beezkneez said... i was refering to the thunderace engine. and i bought the bike non-smoking in -99, then it decided to start smoking after some heavy track-use and i had to help it quit smoking. after i tryed sticking several cartons of nicorette-patches to the fairings it became obvious i had to start thinking about an lung-transplant

the best solution would be to upgrade to yzf1000r engine,electrics and throthle with TPS. y98 -> but if you plan to go with the fzr engine, then anything between years 91-95. the 89-90 engines and electrics will work, but the older fizzer uses oilcooler while the newer one uses similar kind of waterbased oilcooling than your yzf750. if you go with the older one be prepaired to do some HEAVY plumbing in order to get everything aboard. my yzf750sp -93 has an 95mod fzr 1040 engine and works swell... after wisecos... be shure that the engine you plan to work with does not consume oil. or buy one that does (cheap!) and put wisecos/je-pistons kit in it.