dt502001

Anything more than it's weight in scrap mettal

I hope you didn't think you would get good gas milage they didn't put that big of a fuel tank on for nothing. As I said black art and no 2 bikes run the same your going to have to do plug chops and determin what your next step should be. Be for warned though the leaner you get it the better it will run till you go past the right amount then it will sieze up,for a road bike its best to stay on the rich side( safe side) than get it to lean. Also you cant tune a bike unless you can run it full out so for now leave it rich and finnish breaking in the motor. Then worry about tuneing it.

Looking good now with your new toy you have 3 to chose from,those are the tuff choices in life you want to have haha.

Show me a 400 lc never seen one ever. Rd /z 350's are so easy to detrmin what year they are if they have orignal paint on them every year had spefic colours scheems save for the Kenny roberts special built in 1985 and came in standard colours also every other year had 1 paint scheem for every year. Only if he is mentaly able to read rpms of a engine.. Old cables will lie a bit more than new,as they have been streched and wound more BUT but they all lie,It's not like you bike is going to blow up the instant you run it to red line.

Ok if it is worn dogs then you would feel a definate clunking as the dogs skip past one and catch the next one ,if there are only 3 dogs then the tranny has to rotate 120 deg. every time it slips and that would be felt not so much as a slip but a engaugement /disengaugmet and re engaugement more like a clunking, not a progresive loss of power/ slipping/reving faster than accelerating that eventualy catches up as the torque curve evens out ,,thats clutch. 2 nd gear is right in the biggest part of the torque curve and loads the clutch the hardest( esp because your all ready doing the speed limit), I would be still more suspective of week clutch springs or fiber plates worn. 1 quick ride and I could tell the difference between clutch and tranny. For how long it takes I would pull the clutch now and check the plates and the springs free length. You ripe it appart in the winter and find out the gears are fine you have done alot of work for nothing. Hope that helps you figure it out if you want a good reason to go for a good ride come up here and I will beat on your bike for you and tell you LOL

Your bike is black and red so it a 82,, 81's were wite and blue 1980 were 400's air cooled. 1.5 turns is just a base setting,, no 2 bikes run the same,, tuning a 2t is abit of a black art and every adjustment you make should be done 1 at a time so you can tell what worked and what dosen't so. If the bike is pulling clean and strong to 7k and the plug is a nice coffey with cream colour then its all fine don't go messing with it till it's broke in.Fix you front brake first. and run it at 5k to 7k

Pull the plug and set it on the head and turn over the bike and see if you have spark. If you dont have spark thing to check resistor cap (spark plug cap) remove and test power to coil test light or dvom key on,no power check kill switch and ignition switch. Pick up coil with no head light I would be looking at the ignition switch as the power for both are related.Also any wire you may have un pluged accidentaly when changing the lamp.

Well if its lean then going up with the clip will make it leaner if anything you want to go down. But why are you driving around at 3-4 k rpm no power there they don't turn on till 5k + and thats where they like to run keeps the plugs clean and not loading up the motor.Chuging around a 3k you will foul plugs and mabey thats what happening. Do a plug chop and check what they look like.

got to love the music https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JS3PIDgnTNQ&feature=player_detailpage <iframe width="640" height="360" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/JS3PIDgnTNQ?feature=player_detailpage" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Introductions in new member's section work shop questions in the work shop. Would help to know what year the bike is too. How handy are you? You need to do some open heart surgery.

Not much of a intro but HI and welcome.

Back in my day it was write a test 40 questions pass... get any bike you want,no driving in the dark or roads over 50 mph, book driving test same day.... month or less do road test.... pass and happy trails to you. The test was ,,,well you made it to the test center (check 1) now go around these pilons and stop over there (check 2) now go around the block hand signal and come back in and stop here (check 3) The bike is still in one piece and so is the driver (check 4) have a nice day here's your licence. They have changed it a bit in that you have to do 2 driving tests( that are real tests with a instrutor taking you out on the road ) and waite a year to get your full licence so you can drive on roads above 50 mph 0% booze till your 21.But if you want a r1 for your first bike go ahead and buy one. Thoe I have heard rumor of bringing in a 49 hp rule for new riders. How much does all this jumping through hoops cost you guys just to get a bloody licence? I keep hearing you guys say don't fix that up save your money for your test and get a big boy bike.

Hey Alex if it's starting to work I hope you also gave it a liberal amount of new oil to the gears,don't go crazy but hold it as mounted and spray some oil up in there a light bit at a time dont want to fog the lense with oil. If push comes to shove and you realy want it fixed we have a guy in Ingersol who does them any old clocks he will try and he is GOOD at it but he ain't cheap ,,but they come back like new.

So nice a trip,,,,to bad,,, bad drivers every where you go

Good luck Larua. Thanks for the Link DDT..Now I understand why everyone dirves 125's,under a certian age.Much different here.

Welcome on glad you decided to hang around,as said just pull the strap down and un hook the metal ring

Hi Dave it's customary to stop at the new members section and introduce yourself then ask questions.By the sounds of thing you will have lots more questions. So do your intro and then start a new thread bonard hasent been around since june 2010 so doubt he will answer.

HAHAHAH that explains it all and why I am devorced she was 9 on the c scale and 9 on the hot scale and I didn't collect enough data at first to see the 9 on the c sacle. But then again I am always attracted to the red heads.

Is it possible the forks are bottoming out or topping out? Under braking you use up a fair bit of the travel so hitting a deeper hole might possibly bottom the fork out, or after the hole /bump brake off and the fork rizes to it full length, weeks springs low oil level wrong oil weight. You need to do the steering bearings so while you have the forks off drain the fluid and put new in and measure the free lenght of the springs.If the springs have saged/shortened a old trick was to cut down a valve spring from a car to beef up the spring.

Well if it's not poping out of gear then it's not the gear it's self,I would say you have early stage of clutch wear. The gears cant slip/spin on the shaft without breaking off every noch and then they would spin and do nothing at all. Have a look at one of you extra tranny's and you will see what I mean It's imposible for the gear to slip

Being creative to save a few bucks is one thing,being cheap and haveing it cost you a motor is another.Spending all that cash to build the motor and then blow it up for the sake of 40 bucks is foolish.I'm not saying they can't be cleaned up but if the float needle is questionable then replaceing them is the only right thing to do. 2T's can be tempermental all on thier own no need to have a cylinder wash out its oil and blow it up you will be kicking youself in the ass. Correct carburation is key to a long life for a 2t I have seen guys blow up new motors in 10 min all because they failed to get the carb set up/cleaned properly. It's your bike and cash and your call to reuse,but I know what I would do if there was any question as to the intrgerty of the parts to do thier job.

Have a look at a exploded pict on a site like CRC or what ever site you use with exploded views then you know what parts are involved.. Also read back about wedding rings thats what your dealing with,warming the ring ( lower race ) to fit back on will help alot.

Harder than a tire as the bearings will fall to the floor if there is no grease left in there and then you get to tryt and find them all. Set the bike up so front is off the ground and remove the upper triple clamp,then slowly loosen it all up when you get about 1/8 of a inch loose on the main stem start packing grease in to help catch the balls from falling to the floor. once you have alot of grease in then keep slowly removing the stem nut,someone with a rag under will help to catch the balls if you have enough grease then they will fall slowly. Once you have in hand clean and check that they are still round ,most likely not. and measure them,, again they will be worn if you had to tighten the stem. Best to have new ready to install along with new races or if a tapered bearing kit is avaible then go that way SOOOOO much easier. You will need a long punch to drive the old races out with and a block of hard wood to drive them back in and a good hammer. EDIT : I would charge about 3 hrs to do it on your bike so count a whole day if you dont have the tools or experience The hardest part will be getting the inner race off the stem at the bottom. Heat and a good chisle will help. or a bearing race puller.