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About Dickwad

  • Birthday 11/13/1956

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  • Current Bike(s)
    present bike xv1700 roadstar, previously from 1972....NSU quickly, lambretta TV200, suzuki TS125 suzuki 250GT ram air, Suzuki RM125 suzuki RM250, Honda CX500, Matchless 500 G9, yzf 600 thundercat, yzf 1000 thunderace, R1. dragstar xvs 1100.

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  1. Data protection act, they wont tell you.
  2. my thoughts exactly, part blocked fuel line maybe, float chamber cant fill up quick enough, that's why it starts after resting awhile. another thing to check is the filter on the petcock, (fuel tap) if you pull off the fuel pipe from the carb and blow up it with the fuel tap on it will clear for a while, start blowing with the fuel tap shut and open the tap while you are still blowing otherwise you will be enjoying the delites of Esso unleaded.
  3. I agree, i've been down that road and to be honest they sounded a bit "wet farty" when I throttled off, so bought some Vance and Hines.
  4. Fit a Barnett clutch conversion and you will never have clutch slip again, it replaces the feeble pressure plate with a multi spring clutch.
  5. no no no, you start at the tail end of the pipe and work your way to the engine, otherwise the wrap overlaps get full of road poop and come loose, also wrap the retailing wire in the opposite direction, or that will allow the wrapping to come loose as well.
  6. A 650 dragstar tank is exactly the same as the 1100. as the 650 is more common you should be able to find one in the UK.
  7. you only need to fit shorter dog bones, available on ebay and cheap.
  8. without going into a lengthy discussion on how exhaust pipes work, It sounds like its running to lean, this is because of a lack of sufficient back pressure, if its running to lean it will burn the valves and also burn the pipes as you have described, to overcome this you need to increase the main jet size. "Now the experimenting starts", I had to go up 5 sizes before I got mine to run properly, (2000 1100 drag). also make sure the rear main jet is a couple of sizes bigger than the front, this is because the rear cylinder runs hotter so requires more fuel (you will notice this when you take the main jets out), when you have got it right the carbs will need balancing. I fitted straight through slash cuts to mine and had to re jet it as i have described, they have been on it two years now and it runs perfectly with no pipe discolouration, and the spark plugs are always the right colour. oh, by the way, the popping on deceleration is unavoidable with open pipes, again, because of no back pressure, you will have to live with that if you want load pipes. main jets cost about £2 each so its a cheap fix.
  9. My 2000 XVS 1100 does exactly that and has done for the past 3 years when I bought it, I jumped it from a car battery once when the battery was low and it whipped it over, which suggests to me the standard battery isn't really man enough, I mean, you wouldn't try to jump a 1100 cc car from a puny bike battery, one thing you could check though are the resisters in the spark plug caps, If you pull the caps off and look inside where the plug tops clip in you will see a brass fitting with a slot in it, unscrew it with a screw driver and a small carbon bush and spring should fall out with the brass fitting, if this is corroded replace the plug caps, this will make a hell of a difference to the spark power and help with starting.
  10. Borrow a coil or buy a used one, Iv had a similar problem with a V twin, one of the coils was failing, it would start then stop.
  11. i would put money on it a couple or more links have seized up causing the chain not to roll around the sprocket very easily, take the chain off and bend each link by hand, If you come across any tight ones, there's your problem, you will need a new chain if this is the case.
  12. lift the wheels off the ground and (one at a time of course) spin the wheel watching the rim where the Tyre bead sits, it might not be seated evenly, if its not, let the Tyre down, push the bead off the rim (inwards), and pump it up again.
  13. This is the second time my dragstar has done this, cranks over fine but no spark, I checked everything, and I mean, "EVERYTHING"...... except the ignition switch, I assumed because it was cranking over then the switch had to be OK. I was talking to a guy who has the same bike the other night at a bike meet, he said that he had the same trouble, but if he turned the key back ever so slightly while cranking it over it would start. So next day I took the switch apart and sure enough the wiper had been dragging plastic on to the copper contact and plastic is not a good conductor, so, cleaned the tracks up with 2000 wet and dry and no more bad starting, and I guess this could apply to any make or model with a similar problem. Oh and another tip I picked up, when it was sparking, the spark was very faint and white, this I was advised will more than likely be the spark plug caps, inside they have small resistors in the form of a small metal rod about 10mm long with a spring, I checked these and they were pretty corroded, so replaced the caps with new ones and now its got a strong yellow spark and fires up instantly. DEEP JOY.
  14. Iv got a rear fender for a 1100 dragstar custom, which will fit, only problem is, its cracked across one side, it has a small aluminium plate holding the crack together, but, its a clean crack and can be plastic welded and painted, there are plenty of bumper repair shops out there that will do this. I was lucky and managed to get one for £60 so didn't bother to repair it, but kept it as a spare, if you want some pics of it give me your email address and i will send you some. by the way a couple of years ago, rear fenders for dragstars cost £688.00 ready painted from Yamaha. If you are interested i want £20 for it plus postage. When you say struts do you mean the crome strips that go over the arch on each side, they are only for decoration.
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