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you're welcome, YB100 models theres an exhaust gasket for sale on ebay now, might be worth looking at,(gives the part numbers ) ask the seller for the size of it? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/394289575664?epid=599715896&hash=item5bcd7d76f0:g:R38AAOSwpitjSt4X&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoFewe7d%2BAvrPC1VTxLGpHJNdHyTvy6FlXEAGAPANnNXjGKKLL2FBEki5jTuKxmj13G7YaN19DmYbujOCpMYQxzSTXEP4vLaR5yf4VdzvRbwAX4cufssVArAi79MTkFGIP330eicT1O%2BSK7B0CDzzus0eluL7RGhc5ajZnJFzjLfq7uM8Iv0l%2Fgs6OCnFSFBtGS9FoVOySICaaVrx16RNiOI%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR8bZjL-aYQ this link https://www.ebay.com/p/1737220622?iid=372598027432 is the same part number which is compatible with the RD200. have a look at the picture. Also....If for example it's the same size as a Honda one but the Honda is too long, a fine hacksaw could make two from one!!!

hi there and welcome. The trouble will always be finding new old stock of parts for bikes (and cars) which are not only nearly 40 years old but also of relatively low production models. I assume you are referring to the silencer to downpipe sleeve gasket? have you got an idea what shape it is from the parts catalogue or is it a ring gasket? If you have the yamaha part number, then the website Cmsnl.com have the facility to list which other bikes the part number shares, you could then look up parts for those bikes to see if you can find one which is available for another yamaha bike. Having some measurements will help, the inside diameter of the silencer and the outside diameter of the inserting downpipe is a good start. An alternative to consider is a universal graphite sleeve Silencer gasket that may be suitable? such as Ebay item number:204064690445 which has a 38mm ID 45mm OD. Alternativley look up other makes of bike on Ebay which also have a graphite sleeve gasket for the rear silencer and look at the sizes to see if you can get one to fit. My Honda 400/4 has one , and is readily available for example and a look on ebay shows its size 32 x 37.5. and that happens to be the same size as a Honda VFR700...and its cheaper! Hopefully that info may help.

How did you find out what they were for? Did you scour ebay or something?

That's good news , at least you've got a spark. Did it start with new fuel? You mention 'gas', are you across the other side of the pond?

Well done Graham, hope you get it sorted, let us know how you get on. Got myself an "Enthusiast" badge with my post! decided to hand out a few "Likes" and thanks to get the rankings chart going as its been empty for weeks!

You might not think my reply is related...but bear with me! I know nothing about modern motorcycle electronics! however i do own a Vauxhall Astra! it has OnBoard Diagnostics (OBD2) which I am familiar with! Now there are a couple of things which may be of some help...with my Astra, if a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) comes up, replacing the faulty part with a new one results in the code being cleared....but not always!!....sometimes the DTC is stored in a different part of the memory and you have to 'clear' the codes manually by resetting. In my case via my laptop software. if not the code remains on screen or is shown as a series of a flashing light on the dashboard as it's stored historically. Your Yamaha is likely to have some version of OBD and the interface socket will be hidden somewhere. It may be the DTC 7000 is on display and waiting to be cleared/reset. Have another read of those threads, does it go on to say how the code is cleared or the procedure to clear it. it's just a thought. I'm not saying yours is the same, but it may be useful information.

Thanks for the circuit diagram, that's certainly not an easy diagram to follow, they've come a long way with how there are presented today compared to 1964!! Nonetheless, with a light bulb you can test quite a bit! Firstly are you getting a voltage on the LT side of the coil ? (LT low tension) The starter/dynamo has an orange wire going from it to the LT side of the coil, disconnect it at the coil and put a light bulb to earth, does it light up on turning the engine over?

Welcome Cdn, Sounds like you've replaced ALL the key components, so assuming they are all wired correctly and compatible with your bike, I'd be looking at the "kill switch". Now I'm not familiar with the YA6 or have access to the circuit diagram, however, on many bikes of the 60's and 70's they had a dedicated switch to ground the coil and stop the spark, older bikes, the kill switch was wired through the ignition switch, turning the key to 'off' grounded the same wires. Just because the ignition switch "works", doesn't mean it can't be faulty!! Like I said the switch will 'ground' the circuit. To test it, you would need to disconnect this wire so the switch can't ground it. (The switch may be faulty and be grounding the wire in any position thereby killing the spark)

Welcome Jim Hope you find things of interest within the webpages. I'm only a couple of years older than you (61). I've also got a DT175MX 78 model but registered in 79. I've restored mine and they are very easy to work on. I've got lots of photos of the engine/gearbox strip down which may be of help to you. Having said that, the best advice I can give is to take lots of photos with your phone/camera, I took hundreds as I worked on it, which were also invaluable on putting it back together months later. Its not like the old days of processed film, it doesn't take up any room on your SD card! and you can easily delete what you don't need. The forum is very quiet these days, hardly anyone seems to post, me included . However, I do glance at the site most days to see whats going on. If you have any questions ask away, and if i can help out i will. Start a new topic in the Workshop section if you have any questions.

Any Particular bike bud?

Hi there, It would be helpful to know what the typical 8 pin CDI was originally intended for and then read/view the circuit diagram for that bike to be sure. As your two photos supplied, one is for a pin out of a 125Z, and the other has different pin outs for a different fitting. Having said that, you're confident you are getting a voltage/signal from your generator and pulse circuit without the CDI being connected? If you are, then presumably you're having trouble getting the CDI to produce the spark, is that right? your links don't work so well, so here they are... https://postimg.cc/5QBSjrWy https://postimg.cc/G9GQM4TR You may have already seen it, but I found a useful video explaining about an 8 pin CDI which may be of use to you. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m6RCTWhIrTk

Hi Andrea, let me be first to welcome you here! Nice big bike you have there, my first bike (scooter) was a Lambretta, my friend had a Vespa! Hope you enjoy yourself here, although of late it is a very quiet place. Nonetheless A big warm welcome to you. PS my Neice has just announced her engagement to Valerio in Italy. Ciao.

Hi kev, I answered a similar question about taking apart a speedo earlier this year here's the thread, might be helpful. https://yamahaclub.com/forums/topic/47654-dt50mx/#comment-298997

Welcome Kev, Hope you find things of interest within the webpages. Your MX is a little bit younger than my 78 model, but having restored mine also they are very easy to work on. I've got lots of photos of the engine/gearbox strip down which may be of help to you. Having said that, the best advice I can give is to take lots of photos with your phone/camera, i took hundreds as I worked on it, which were also invaluable on putting it back together months later. Its not like the old days of processed film, it doesn't take up any room on your SD card! and you can easily delete what you don't need. The forum is very quiet these days, hardly anyone seems to post, me included . However, i do glance at the site most days to see whats going on. If you have any questions ask away, and if i can help out i will. Start a new topic in the Workshop section if you have any questions. All the best, and welcome once again.

Well done Slice, leaving a cloth inside the engine reminds me of when surgeons find they are missing a swab at the end of the operation! although we had procedures in place that ALL swabs are counted before final closure!....but you still hear stories of swabs and instruments turning up post op!! Anyway, good job you've got her all back together and are the proud owner of a nice set of shiny sockets! I remember doing the cam chain and tensioner on my 400/4, I even did a video on you tube as I shared my experience to help others. Well done Slice, have a pat on the back from me.

hi there, you don't say where you are in the world. There is Musket Mufflers in New Zealand who are known to stock a lot of Yamaha exhausts, and can apparently custom make any system. Might be worth looking them up. They had an off the shelf front pipe repair section I bought from them for my DT175MX

Hi again, just re-read your post. Are you trying to source the actual connector on the loom? (which plugs into your relay) OR Are you trying to find an alternative relay with an identical pin out to replace your R1 version. You may have to contact Yamaha.

Welcome in mate, hope you enjoy doing it up. Nice little modern trial with hopefully plenty of parts available.

Hi Gingerchili, Are you referring to the name of the connection? as in:- "D connector" where "D" is the physical shape, "JST connector." (japanese Solderless Terminals). DIN connector (Deutsches Institut für Normung) connector. The List goes on and on.... The connectors listed above have one thing in common....they, at the time, have been 'standardised' .As in manufacturers making something to a standard across the industry so that their parts become compatible. However, Relays and the like have numerous pin outs, depending on the internal circuits of the relay etc, 10 pin , 12 pin, 18 pin etc, They subesquently have the pins grouped together in various box shaped sections, they may well have a name used by the manufacturer, but its not a term commonly used for its sales potential. So they tend to be referred to by 'gender' ,from the plug or socket, such as a 12 pin male or 16 pin female etc. (Molex was/is a brand name of common vehicle connector) Quite a few years ago I dabbled with electronics and made a few bits and pieces, but I never came across a common name for relay and other black box components in their detailed catalogues, other than by brand name /pin out and gender. Hope that's of some help.

Over to you then Jimmy....He's up around Glasgow I believe.

Well done jimmy,...I'd forgotten about professional help! I'm always thinking DIY is the only option!

The vast majority of speedometers are sealed for life, as in, constructed in a manner to prevent the mileage being altered that might not be true! Having said that..everything that is 'constructed' can be 'destructed' or reverse engineered! The question is, whilst you can get it apart, can you put it back together? That all depends on your ability and 'whats acceptable'. to you. I've taken apart quite a few...for cleaning purposes!....I've done both my Honda 400/4 and DT175 speedos, and I've put them back together. ...but...you can tell I have! They won't win concours, because you can see what I've done, which is fine and it's acceptable to me, both are watertight amd don't steam up. The Honda had a chrome ring around it which was compressed onto the two 'halves' of the speedo. I knew I could not re-compress the ring back on, and make it look like its never been disturbed, so I cut the ring and silver soldered a very tiny nut and bolt back on it and simple tightened them up. I hid the join the best I could between the speedo and rev counter. If I remember correctly, the DT had to be cut in half in a place that was concealed by the stainless steel lower cover, and I used a soldering iron to 'melt' the plastic back together to re join the two halves. You can't see the join, unless you take the metal cover off. So answering your question: "Does anyone know if you can strip the speedometer gauge on a dt50?" Then I'd say yes you can... but It's unlikely that it's been designed in a way that you can dismantle it easily! or ....buy a another one! Good luck , hope that is some sort of help. Let us know how you get on.

Hi there William, welcome to the group, can you just clarify what is smoking. Are you referring to smoke coming out AROUND the Right cylinder itself?, and as Snake suggests a good smoothering of soapy water whilst the engine is running will help locate any location of a leak. Base gaskets are common source of poor running and smoke. OR ..are you referring to the Right cylinder as being the source, as its smoking OUT of the exhaust pipe which serves that cylinder? In which case what colour is the smoke,? white, black?, etc. because then it's either oil from the sump, or unburnt fuel gases getting past the valves.

Hi there Christian, being the owner of a 78 DT175MX i can confirm that Finnerz is correct, it is just the breather tube for the petrol cap (as mentioned in your title). I poke my breather tube down between the front yoke of the steering, it stays there quiet happily throughout the ride. Never had a problem with mine, although after 40 years the rubber can perish and, after several decades, they can end up a lot shorter!, I think I replaced mine with a length of nitrle rubber a few years ago. Another purpose, other than a breather, is if the bike is laid down (in the mud on a trial...as it was designed!!) then fuel doesn't pour all over the painted tank. Hope that helps, and welcome to the group.

Hi again, Just been looking around the web for you and came across this page. Forgive me if you've already seen it. https://www.yam-r125.net/adjusting_the_rear_disc_brake-144.html shows you how to adjust the pedal and the expected clearance. Hope that helps.