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Everything posted by slice

  1. Well to be honest I'm not completely sure but your best bet would be to have a word with your local Yam dealer workshop staff. They would know for certain. But have you thought about a used set of parts? Usually you can pick up a set of used bit's off of EBAY or somewhere else for a much lesser amount. Any wrecked bike of a similar year will have the parts you need. Just had a quick look on EBAY and you can pick up an ECU for about £90, other bits will no doubt turn up then it will cost you about £150 for an ECU reset company to make it work on your bike. To be honest if the bike your looking at is anything other than REALLY CHEAP then move on.
  2. slice

    Front wheel bearing!

    As I've always heard the Scots are generous to a fault! But thanks for the offer, I suspect that I have spent more than that on the new bloody tools this damned thing has eaten it's way through
  3. slice

    Front wheel bearing!

    So here we have part 3 of this seemingly never ending saga. I have the rear wheel bearings all done, great, I have the rear diff all painted and ready to go back in, equally great, BUT I don't have the one and only oil seal I need! Apparently it's in Japan? Cos most sensible people NEVER need to replace it. So more fishing around looking for things that need doing while I wait the 9 chuffing day's it will take to get here! Fowlers by the way have been nothing but helpful in my hunt for rare parts that a 19 year old bike need. So just by chance I notice a small drip of oil on the floor right by the near side front brake, I now have to replace the fork seals as well! I suppose you could say that "every cloud has a silver lining" cos this would need doing anyway, but I'm feeling hard done by at the moment as every time I sort of finish one job another bloody problem shows up! At least the weather is horrible so I probably would not be out and about but it still sucks. And finally as I will have the forks out why not just do the head stock bearings as well? Seems like a good idea to me! Pretty sure this is not the last time you will see me moaning about the bike. :)
  4. slice

    Front wheel bearing!

    Ok part 2, Rear wheel off, try to take the bearing seal off as usual and guess what the poxy thing just crumbles to dust, oh my! Can't shift the bearings either, 2 on one side and 1 on the other that have practically welded themselves to the outer wheel hub (bollocks!) So onto ebay and order up a set of bearing extractors as I am NOT hitting these things with my usual enthusiasm (san's lump hammer and long drift) So as I have a gap in my schedule thought why not take the diff off of the swing arm and give it a bit of a birthday? New paint and a bit of a polish will not hurt, little do I know, the thing is supposed to come out with a bit of a wiggle and bob's you uncle job done, yeah right, this thing has I suspect been on since it was built in 2001. 2 crowbars and an hour later I have half of the thing in my hands, the other half, actual drive shaft is stuck in the hole. having ripped the final drive oil seal clean out of the housing. So with lot's of swearing and some lost skin I finally get the last part out, it's as rusty as f**k! Splines are fine just never had a dollop of grease or oil I suspect since first built if then. It's all repairable and will all go back nice and easy eventually but what price a simple swipe of grease at the factory? So at the moment neither job has been done, when it should have taken at most 2 or 3 hours I'm now at 3 day's!
  5. Hi Nev, welcome to the YOC.
  6. Does this help? Found it on http://xjbikes.wikidot.com/carb-specs Good luck. Years & Models: XJ900 model 58L Carb Manufacturer: Mikuni Carb Series: BS36 Carb Model ID: 58L00 Main FUEL Jet Size: #107.5 Pilot FUEL Jet Size: #40 Main AIR Jet Size: #45 (non-removable, in carb throat) Pilot AIR Jet Size: #160 AIR COMPENSATOR Jet Size: not used Starter FUEL Jet Size: #35 (non-replaceable, in float bowl) Main jet NEEDLE ID: #5FZ62-3 Main needle JET Size: #Y-0, style #318 (the main needle JET is also known as the "power valve" or "emulsion tube"). Float Valve Seat Size: 2.3mm, uses a shorter float valve needle and the needle is clipped to the float arm. Fuel Level in float bowls: 5.0mm +/- 1mm (.118" +/- .039") Idle RPM's: 1,050 rpms Although not part of your carbs, your valve clearances should be considered as part of your "intake system", so here are those specs, too. Note that valve clearances should be measured with the engine "cold", meaning 70-degrees Fahrenheit or less: Valve Clearance Intake: 0.11 - 0.15mm ( = 0.004 - 0.006") Valve Clearance Exhaust: 0.16 - 0.20mm (= 0.006 - 0.008")
  7. HI Simon, welcome to the YOC, Good luck with the Draggy.
  8. Ok so finally got round to replacing the front wheel bearing on the bike, I have if I'm honest been thinking that the MOT bloke who did my bike way back in April was having a bit of a laugh when he said that the front and rear bearings were in need of doing. So finally got the time to slip the front wheel off, knocked out the first bearing and it was ok'ish a bit grumbly but not what you would call knackered 2nd bearing comes out and f**k me there is half the cage missing AND one of the balls is no where to be seen! I mean how can a ball bearing be missing? Counted those in the other bearing and sure enough I have one less in the off side ball race! I have been riding on this since April cos I thought I knew better, just goes to show no matter how many times you think the MOT guy is taking the piss they might actually be right. I am going to do the rear bearings tomorrow and can only wonder what horrors lay in wait. Oh and my new ABBA lift has been christened "STANNAH" in honour of your comments about my age and mobility, see I can take a joke tho I suspect some of you buggers weren't joking
  9. slice

    New Rear mono shock.

    Oh thanks Dutch! You are SOOO going to pay for that :)
  10. Although Cynic is right and you probably could repair that bit, to be honest if you can find one that's not been butchered why wouldn't you? If you glue it back together you can best it will let go next time right where you least want it to, usually at the lights on the busiest day of the year and it will always be in the back of your mind nagging away like an ex girlfriend!
  11. So after the last YOC meet up and rolling round the roads of Wales I think it's time for me to uprate the rear shock on the FJR, this is because I did find myself yoyoing round some of the wonderful bends in Wales. Apparently the OE rear shock on the FJR is known for being a bit under sprung and as it's one I bought used from France some years ago I figured it was time for a bit of an upgrade, anyway I went to the FJ owners club the other day and got a sparkly new YSS shock for the bike, pretty bloody amazing difference in corners and it does not squat down anymore when I give it the beans. Plus I can now alter the ride height and the rebound which the standard shock lacked, it was either hard or soft, neither of which was much different if I'm honest except that it would pogo on the soft setting like a right bastard! So I'm now thinking that the front springs are at least 19 years old and could probably do with a bit of an upgrade as well, the club do a set of Hyper-pro springs that are made for the FJR so when I do the front wheel bearings I might as well do the springs as well, I will have the wheel off and it's only a few bolts to drop the fork legs out. Rear wheel bearings need doing as well so might as well have the swing arm off to grease those bearings as well, so all in all looks like I will be in the garage for the next few days! Oh and I have a swanky new lift ! There's lucky!
  12. Yep Cynic is right if "start yer bastard" makes it run then you definitely have a blockage.
  13. Hi, First and most important do you have the workshop manual? Cos that will give you all the info (well most!) that you need, they are on EBAY for about £15 and well worth the price. If you do have the manual and it still won't come out then hopefully someone on here will have an answer for you. Usually it's corrosion between the steel bolt/stud and the ali engine mount that get's stuck, if all else fails try HEAT but not to much just where it passes through the engine, your doing the right thing with WD40 but there are other penetrating oils out there and even freeze sprays that might help. Good luck anyway.
  14. slice

    dyna coils

    Hi, I looked and MIKUNI carb parts are available on EBAY plus I found this http://www.motocarb.com/ I'm pretty sure that there are loads of them out there. If the first supplier does not have them then ask them if they know someone else who they could recommend. Good luck.
  15. As I said Dutch, I should never have sold my FJ! Someone WILL buy this bloody thing.
  16. So as I asked a few weeks ago "was the ABBA superbike lift any good?" Well to cut a long story short SWMBO has bought it for me for my birthday (YAY) it turned up in several boxes, well what's a birthday without something to open! and she had got me the whole kit and caboodle, I mean the lift the trolly widget and the extension arms for front and rear wheel removal. So I can now take the wheels off and still move the bugger around the garage. It was expensive tho just under 3 hundred quid. Anyway the point of this missive is to say that the thing is just brilliant, after you have attached the bobbins to the bike it's a simple matter to just hoike it into the air with one hand which brings it into the same height as if you were using the centre stand, for which up till now I have to use a lump of wood under the rear wheel to get it to the height where this old sod can then just about get it over the hump onto the stand and that's using both hands and still struggling with 350Kgs of dead weight. So I'm just saying, if you have no centre stand or struggle to use the one on your bike then this thing is the dog's danglies when it comes to ease of use. This is what she got for me. Plus I can now take off the centre stand and suspension and the swing arm to grease them whereas before it took 3 different set ups to do these jobs!
  17. I think it's safe to say that we all feel for you when it comes to having your bike stolen or interfered with. And it's not much consolation when the manufacturer say's it's not their problem and washes their hands of it. There is after all only so much you can do to protect your bike, if someone want's it then they will take it I'm afraid, these shithouses are just in it for the joyride or to strip it for parts and don't really care that you have spent your hard earned on it. I'm pretty sure you have considered lot's of ways to secure the bike and to be honest no one on here will be able to help with a certain way to keep it out of the hands of these people, Try a ground anchor and a rated chain, not saying that will work but other than having it guarded at night by a bloke sat outside your house there's not a lot else that can be done. Hope you find a solution and they don't come back again, if you make it difficult to steal then usually they move on to easier pickings. Good luck anyway.
  18. slice


    Well Drewpy, I personally think not, I have them on the car, as do most new motors, if those don't get stolen why should the ones on the bike? Plus they only work with the receiver that they come with and they also have nuts to clamp them in place so it's like anything really if they want them they will steal them but why would you bother if you can't use the things? We all know some dumb arseholes will steal anything not nailed down but at just a few quid a set why not fit them and see what happens?
  19. slice


    Thanks for that Bips, really never had this kind of thing in my day so not sure what to expect with it. I might just bung a few quid at it and see how it pans out. Plus if I get wheel wobble with it they can go straight into the bin! BMW prices are just unbelievable what planet are they on to charge £200 for something you can get for £30? I suppose more worrying is that people pay those prices, what's the old saying "one born every minute"!
  20. slice


    Ok so just wanted to ask, has anyone got one of these TPMS thingy's attached to there bike? I have it on the car but wondered if it was worth it for the bike, I also have 90 deg valves on the bike so would this make a difference? Oh and just for the folks that don't know what it is (cos I didn't at first) it is the TYRE PRESSURE MONITORING SYSTEM, apparently it comes with a small LCD screen and 2 valve covers that can be set to specific pressures both high and low and at only about £30 odd quid for the set it seems pretty nifty and stops you having to get down on your knees to check the pressures every couple of days (weeks! MONTHS for some of us)
  21. Hi and welcome to the YOC, sounds like a good project, as Jimmy said start a new thread in the projects section and we can see what your up to, lot's of photos help as well. Good luck.
  22. Well done Bips, so much better than my effort, at least yours is in focus and has no swearing in it! Went to Portsmouth yesterday and found myself trying not to swear out loud, it's so much harder than you think !!!
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