2 Wheels

I to am derestricting my dt and have been looking into this. You all prob know this -- but anyway-- We want the PV to work as it should because without it there is no power at low/medium revs. The PV is fuly closed when it is 1/3 of the exaust port and fully open it is the with of the exaust port. This is what it does in its check when the IG is turned on. Even in its retarded state this is it working proper. The CDI is the heart/brains of the bike, the reed switch (along with everything else) is conected to it. With the bike on full throtle the PV is fully open until "whatever revs/mph" the CDI tells the reed switch to retard the PV via the servo pully. Takeing the reed switch outa the speedo will mean the CDI doesnt know what revs/mph the bike is doing so it cant tell the reed switch to retard the PV. This is what we want as the PV will not retard when the bike is on full throtle and will still work proper at low revs. I think this is all we can do to the PV and the other thinks are the exaust pipe and a 240 main jet. The bike is currently on a 210 main jet. I (like Cynic) dont think this is enough of a restriction to take the bike down by 10hp. What I am wondering is -- is the CDI itself permanatly retarded by yamaha for this bike --- they wont tell us jack shit ! Im not that good on the electricks side of bikes and was wondering is there a way arround the CDI, I know we need the CDI for the IG timing and things but i wonder is there some way arround it. ps. I am not trying to make a race bike outa my dt, all i want is (like OldGit) a few more horses. What ya think ? EDIT: The 180 filp talked about is only if the PV was taken outa the barel for cleaning or something. It is then possible to put the PV back in 180 the wrong way arround, this would mean the exaust port would never open fully and would be 1/3 closed off all the time.

That first one is the business

Valentines Day Roses are red, Violets are blue, So lets get to bed, and see how we do.

Am i seeing this right ? So you have the exaust, then inside that there is a straight piece of pipe, then inside that there is that beveled piece of pipe. If so -- major restrict straight away!

What make carb is it ? I think with you running it on a 45 pilot jet that this is to big. It is probably (kinda) acting as the choke being on. With the pilot this big it probably wont allow the revs to come down any more than they can. Me thinks you should come back down to 35 and start again trying to balance it out. Have you done all the checks--- starting at the fuel tank and working your way to the carb. I think you are drawin air in somewhere along the way to carb. What is your air filter like? What condition is the pipe in?

Happy B-day Cynic day late but so what !!!

Jack and Jill, went up the hill, To fetch a pale of water, Jack fell down and broke his crown, and Jill came tumbeling after. What Really Happened!!! Jack and Jill, went up the hill, To have some hanky panky, Jill bent down, they shagged till sun-down, and they both came down full of laughter.

Very well put merv, I couldnt agree more!!! ps. I think there all like that and would do there own mother's if they got a chance. The baskets must be brain washed into being knobs while going through training.

If your bike is running good when you get it started then I would just do as Cynic said in his first reply. Take carb off and only remove float chamber from the bottom. Be carefull not to bend or hit the float's themselves and just clean them two jets that you see. Then put it back to-geather. Im only saying this cause, if you dont know much about your carb then dont mess about with any other settings cause the carb is a very tempermental thing, but if you wish to explore and lern then by all means go ahead !! Once carb is back on, turn on fuel from tank. Then open drain screw on bottom of float bowl, allow some fuel to flow out, this will get rid of any water that might come through from the tank. Tighten drain screw and try ps. wait for Mad.Vez pics might be a good idea if you not in a hurry !

What does winter do to your bikes? just wondering! Bit harder to start in the cold but does it do anything else----- engine wise

You make the bolognese and well all come round and talk bikes Only messing, You get to know about bikes by fixing things that go wrong. you have just fixed your first problem and from now on you will know how to fix it if it happens on another bike. Like making the bolognese you have to learn somewhere!! Glad you got everything sorted,,,,,, now keep the shiney side up !!! Alot of problems will stay away if you keep the bike well serviced ! Happy motering

Yep, idle jet is also pilot jet! + Empty any water that might be in your float chamber.

How do you know the power valve is at fault? Did you have the cover off and watching it to see or what? EDIT: sorry Cynic didnt see your post. Yes it is supposed to do that.

Did you give the back tyre a good several hard kicks before slaming the garage door behind you I think this is an electrical prob, and unfortunatly I am not the best in this department but im sure the lads will help you out. Your carb and other things talked about seem to be performing as they should which leaves only electrical, Good Luck mate, ( Patients is a virtue )

Yep, a laugh a day is good Now that is a good looking seat!

Found these, maby they will help I wouldnt worry to much about it yet till you get everything else on then route is arround everything. right of the head-stock, between the fork tops, running along with/under right hand main frame bar then down to clutch. What work had you to do on the bike?

How did your tests go? Do you have a Fat Blue spark when the plug is out of the head, in the HT lead and earthed on the engine??????? If not, start doing Cynic's tests!

I once stayed in a house with 3 other lads while away working. One of them was a bit of a mammy's boy. When he went to bed one night we had a long piece of fishing line tied to the corner of his Quilt stretching out to the hall. When he was in bed for about an hour we gave the line a good tug----- the quilt came flying off him. We could here him screaming while we leged-it down the hall. Two hours later we did it again, he came running out of his room screaming "fuck this, this house is haunted". We had to tell him the crack in the end cause he was leaving the house at 3am for a hotel These were happy days

Can you find any of the brackets that holds it in place anywhere. Would it not b ok if you route it your own way making sure it isnt getting fouled on anythin and that it all looks nice and tidy

Failte!! Randall to the YOC I am one of the mad Irish "barstuards" that floats about on here sometimes!!! Nice bike there you got your hands on!

Yep! thats what i ment Im gona de-restrict mine some time and maby put a Gianelli pipe on it. I realise the stock pipe is full of restrictor stuff jamed n there,,,,,,, look forward to your thread on your 125 to see what is there and what can be done without ! whenever you tackle it

You took it out for 30mins and it was fine but yet when you done the spark test it was week and often none. This is contradictory. You have 3 issues. The starter. The spark. The idleing 1st The spark: Right gap in plug. Plug out and into HT lead, earthen on the engine should have fat blue spark. If not start at HT lead and work all the way back to the coil. No broken wires or anything suspecious, no dampness in the leads or wires. There are tests on the coil but i dont know how to do them! If you have good blue spark then thats rulled out. 2nd The Idleing: How long are you leaving the choke on for. Should only need it for 1min or 2min max then off. Should be idleing arround 1500 to 2000max. Have you got the right fuel/air mixture going on. Is your piolet jet blocked, is there water in the float bowl. is the float level correct. 3rd The Starter: Take it off and clean it, check to make sure it workes proper. I think if you get using the bike a bit more and frequent that it Might just come back to its-self !!!

Good stuff!! Now get it on and tested---- we want to know he results, good or bad 125 pipes are the same ---- i think

So the clutch is not dragging now?? So the starter starts the bike when it is warmed up, i think the starter needs to be freed-up a bit. It isnt turning the engine fast enough when the bike is cold for it to fire up, try drowning the starter in wd40 getting inside it as much as possible. It could aslo be that the bike was left staning for so long that the engine it-self is all a bit tight, try going for a good spin to free everything up. This might take the pressure off the starter when it is trying to turn the engine, something is making it to hard for the starter to freely turn the engine. All this failing you could take the starter off and make sure it is clean and all bits are moveing freely as they should be.

Welcome jkkl, Check the earth on the battery, earth on frame of the bike and the plus and minus on the starter its-self. Stood for a long time so the starter might just need a bit of freeing up, or the brushes inside the starter might be stuck or coroded up. The idle issue--- you might just need to turn up the idle a bit, screw on the carb turn it slowely while watching the revs. What revs does it idle at now? EDIT: you have edited your post so I will do the same! Spraying with wd40 will help but you might need to actually take the earth wires off and give them a good cleaning. You could also just have a lazy starter not turning the engine fast enough for it to pick up. Do you have any clutch slip or drag putting extra pressure on the spining of the engine? Turn off the lights and things to give it a better chance.