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Paper Mache Man

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About Paper Mache Man

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  • Current Bike(s)
    DT200R '88
  1. Well I might try a 40 at some point but I can't go back to 35, it just doesn't start and I can't get out of 1st unless I'm running down hill (with choke off). I'm seriously considering the 40 as most dt200s running premix seem to do ok on it. I've seen a few people mention fowling etc on a 45 and bitchy problems on a 35 (although many people find it works fine - which is why I bought that size in the first place). Yeah all the checks are done, no leaks to speak of. The air filter could be a problem, it's not on at the moment. I've experimented with different (makeshift) air filters to ch
  2. Thanks for the interest guys. The crank seals appear ok but only externally - basically it's not spewing crap out the side of my bike. I will have to pull it apart eventually, I've just been putting it off until I source parts and save some cash. I'm planning to take it out next weekend so I'll need to decide if I can get it done before then. I've really been told enough times to check my seals though so I'll just have to do it lol... My carbi doesn't have a mixture screw unfortunately, the jets are set and don't allow adjustment, there is only the air screw after that. The slid
  3. Ok, so I have a DT200R '88. It's an old dirt bike but it's scrubbing up nicely. I've been rooting around with the jets and finally got it working properly (it now starts 1st or 2nd kick and runs with the choke off). This is a big step up from a bike that was a complete bitch to start and stalled 500m down the road. Anyway, MY IDLE! I can't seem to get a nice smooth idle in the low revs. I can keep it so it will idle a bit too high than what I'd like and then if it goes a bit lower it goes a LOT lower and needs prodding to keep it ticking over. I'm not sure what choices I'm left with.
  4. Well I might not need to do it, maybe. I put in a 45 pilot and the bike seems to be running properly now. Runs with choke off properly now and also has no issues starting any more. I have a problem with my radiator though, it's leaking a bit - I get steam, can't see water drops so it must be small. Just wondering what the best way of dealing with this is. I put stop leak in but it hasn't stopped the leak. The water is boiling despite my pump working and the thermostat seeming to regulate properly. It seems to only boil once the bike has stopped and the internal pressure is relieved throu
  5. How much of the bike do I need to pull down to get to the crank seals? Any advice before I do so? Any parts/gaskets I'll need to replace as soon as I venture this way (i.e. use once items)? Found that despite having a lot of fuel in it, the tank wasn't putting any out...just the smallest trickle. Turns out what I was seeing was all reserve, no main. As soon as I filled the tank up the carbi started spewing it out again. Stupid mistake which has made the last week of troubleshooting close to useless. Also had another person mess with my carbi so gah...square one atm.
  6. So the rear axle is great now. I think I need to disassemble the swing arm and replace bearings/washers though as it's squeaking a lot. On to bigger problems though. I decided to give the spare carbi a go with the new pilot jet (35 instead of 25). It seems in alright nick and I gave it a good clean out...it was missing a few pieces and most of the o-rings needed replacing (all done). Right now I'm running a 35 pilot (1 turn out) and a 175 main. I got it up and running perfectly (really good response etc - no dead zone like with the 150 main) except that the idle was too low and the en
  7. I've found this forum a good resource for all things old and Yamaha. You really just need a workshop manual for it though or at the very least a parts manual.
  8. I actually took it out this weekend. I'm having some pretty confusing issues right now. When it runs, it's running much better and I can even run it with the choke off although the idle is too low and will stall the motor so I need to adjust the clip. Before it would just die regardless though so it's improved things somewhat. The hardest thing is just starting the damn thing! It also just kept dying sporadically but I think I fixed the underlying issue there. I think I had a weak spark so I replaced the sparky only to find much the same with the new one. Ended up stripping down the picku
  9. Ok so I think it's been rebored (well I know it has) but not too 250cc. I'm going to pull the power valve out and take a look at it. I have 2 questions. Does the power valve need to be modified during the reboring process (i.e. to fit inline with the larger cylinder) or is it fine left how it is. I'm not sure what's happened there. I just don't want to 'fix' the power valve so it's working but find it explodes my engine as soon as it rotates for the first time. Secondly, we use 12V battery packs at work for spotlighting. I'm assuming I can use one of these to check the power valve
  10. Hey guys, I've recently bought a DT200R '88 and am working through the process of bringing it up to roadworthy status. The first hurdle is getting it working mechanically speaking as it has a few niggles here and there. It has apparently been bored out to 250cc so in this respect should be fairly newish engine wise (new gaskets etc). The first problem one is to do with the carbi (I hope). It refuses to run if the choke is off. It feels like it's running too lean so I'm trying a new pilot jet (current is 25, new is 35) to see if that helps things along. I have a small leak in the ra
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