Madison Motorsport

I would be surprised if your front tyre was wider than your rear tyre.

It will have to be a 1998-2002 engine. The 2003s were the first fuel injected models

TID14-33 is the correct part. I have one you can purchase for £30 posted. It was removed fully working from a 1986 FZ400. PM me if you are interested.

That quote completely contradicts the Yamaha Manual I have got, direct from Yamaha Japan I might add!

RD250LC? RD350LC? RD500? All drool worthy once refurbed

Yep, I have the same issue with my Ace at the moment. The head inside the clocks is pooped. Not cheap either I replaced the cable and drive unit on the hub first as they were the cheap options but to no avail

It's barely run in bud Mine had 78k on the clock when it was stolen. I bought it ex-demo with 586 miles on the clock. I had it eight years and in that time the only engine work to be done was valve clearances at 24k, 48k & 72k and a head re-skim at around 65k. The engines are near enough bullet proof as long as they are maintained correctly

Firstly, charge your battery. Then connect only the positive terminal. You will need a multimeter, set on current measurement (an auto ranging meter is easiest or you will need to start at the highest setting and work your way down until you get a reading). Hook up the meter to the negative battery lead and the negative battery terminal. With the bike off (and any accessories), make a note of the current draw. Unless you have an immobiliser and/or alarm, there should, theoretically, be no drain at all. It is not unusual, however, to see a small drain of around 5mA. If you have any sizeable drain, locate your fuses and pull one at a time until the drain stops. This will indicate on which circuit you have a problem, making it easier to trace. If you have a decent drain, I would say you could be looking at either a bad earth or a short somewhere along the circuit. If you don't get a sizeable drain, connect the battery fully and note the battery voltage with the multimeter (set on DC volts of course). Start the bike, without any accessories and lights switched on if possible. The voltage of the battery should increase to around 14v (presuming you are running a 12vDC system) while the bike is running if the charging system is working correctly. The voltage may not increase immediately, so let the bike run for a couple of minutes and then take your reading. If you don't get a voltage increase, your charging system is at fault. If you do, then go over every Earth connection on the bike and check that there is no corrosion or any loose wires. Best of luck

The choke should be connected to a bi-metallic strip which auto-closes it to half setting once the engine warms up a little. Don't know if that helps you in any way.

Top speed should be around 165mph-ish. However, I doubt you will ever see it. Unless you are riding downhill, you will never redline any bike in top gear.

Not upright. You will underfill if you take a reading from upright. Check the oil level with the bike on the side stand, that's how the bike was designed.

Sorry double post

Sight unseen, it sounds like you need new piston rings. Mileage doesn't mean a thing when it comes to piston rings wearing out. The age of the bike shows a lack of use and, while this helps resale value, it doesn't help engine internals. My advice would be to get the 24k major service done early. This will include valve clearances, carb re-jetting and balancing, etc. Get those piston rings checked! I have known early R6s to suffer the same issues as a lot of Thunderaces where the pistons tend to oval themselves slightly, only by microns, but enough to pass oil. The only true cure for this is a re-bore but new piston rings will help in the short term if you cannot afford the cost of a full re-bore.

How much did you pay for the CDI if you don't mind me asking? I have two lying around that I was asking £40 each, posted, for.

Not quite correct cynic but nearly. The pistons on a normal inline four are set at 180 degrees from the next one along the crank so you get <TDC><BDC><TDC><BDC> all firing at regular intervals. The R1 Crossplane crank sets the pistons at 90 degrees from each other, so you get <NORTH><EAST><SOUTH><WEST> North being TDC and South being BDC and firing at irregular intervals, hence the 'big bang' where two cylinders fire at close intervals. The firing order is 1,2,4,3. It is cylinders 2 & 4 that fire close together giving the 'bang'. One reason Yamaha used this design was to reduce unbalanced vibration. It's a bit like a washing machine in theory - If you have a heavy load concentrated at the bottom, the drum will spin off centre. however, if your load is evenly distributed, the drum will spin on it's axis with less deviation and less vibration. I hope this explains what I mean sufficiently. the crossplane crank is also said to improe the way in which power is delivered from throttle to rear wheel, making it more linear and predictable than a standard inline four.

And their quality is absolute crap these days. They've gone too big and turned nastily commercial in their philosophy - "once you've paid we don't give a f**k!"

There's lots to choose from, depending on exactly what you want. If you like naked, there's the BT1100 Bulldog - a very under-rated bike IMO. Cruiser style, there's the Dragstar. Tourer, you have the FJR1300. All three are excellent distance bikes. All extremely comfortable and all superb two-up. Having said that, Honda offer the VFR and Kawasaki the ZZR. both are again extremely good bikes for what you are asking.

It sounds like the regulator has failed.

I see it day in and day out. It really annoys me. I'm usually in the van so I get to have a bit of fun with the brain dead cagers. If I see them on their phone, I'll overtake them and drift closer and closer to them until they have to put their phone down, then I'll not give them a massive amount of room when I pull back in. I have a big sticker on the back of may van saying 'Don't phone while driving!' They usually shit themselves enough to end the call

No it isn't. The warning light is a LOW OIL PRESSURE warning light.

I for one have never seen a Moto-X helmet with a visor. The norm is to wear wrap around goggles or shades (I don't mean Biggles style goggles either ) If you want a visor, you're going to be looking for a full face or flip front I'm afraid. Steer clear of open face helmets - your chin is better off where it is

FZR600 nose cone may fit, depending on exactly which model you have.

I can relate to that. Not been done myself but I know a few who have. NSL over there means 'No Speed Limit' like it did over here many years ago. However, they will prosecute if you are riding in a way they consider to be dangerous (they are pretty laid back but don't suffer fools, as the saying goes). They will come down on riders, who speed in zones where there are speed limits, like the proverbial ton of bricks. As merv said, be careful and don't get led into racing ANYBODY.

I marshalled at Glen Lough last year and I'm hoping to do the Bungalow this time round

I have a few mates in the force. From what they've said it seems that a lot of these foreigners who sail to our shores with large vans to 'buy' our second hand stock of bikes are helping themselves to extras that they like the look of :angry: I hate to say this, but your bike could well be in Bulgaria or Czec by now and fully re-registered. Best of luck anyway though.