JUST ME!

HI, Find the manual for this bike and set the power valve up as per original. The clever little Japanese folk new exactly what they were doing at the time of manufacture. Pinned fully open is the equivelent of removing the variable valve timing on a 4 stroke. Can't imagine anybody rushing out to do that! Power valves were once pinned full open in some forms of roadracing where you were at maximum throttle for most of the time. Hope this helps.

Further to this reply. You will now be surprised by how light the exhaust system is compared to when it was dirty.Whilst exhaust is off turn motor over with kick start until piston is high enough to cover exhaust ports. then clean buildup out of port. Don't scratch piston.Makes a very noticable difference to performance of bike. As far as compression checking nobody bothers. You can tell by the pressure required on kickstarter. Besides you say it starts easy. ALL THE BEST!

Throw a set of rings at it if you like but does not sound like the problem! I use to mix my fuel at about a 25:1 ratio. Or 40 mls/litre. With this much smoke it has too much oil or the oil is seperating from the fuel whist bike is sitting. Always a good idea to mix your fuel as you need it. Don,t leave mixed fuel sitting around. Oil and oil soaked carbon deposits may have collected in the expansion chamber.Remove exhaust system from bike.Remove silencer from exhaust. Have someone with oxy/acetylene gear heat the first inch or so of pipe, where it connects to the barrel, until metal begins to glow in a ring formation around end of pipe. Sit system on concrete floor. Turn acetylene off and oxygen on full. Hold oxy torch in glowing end of exhaust. You will see the glowing ring around pipe slowly continue to travel along the length of the exhaust. Takes 5-10 minutes to complete. Very impressive to watch if you have never seen it done before. Allow pipe to cool and DO NOT quench. Stand pipe on end and a masive amount of rubbish will fall out of it! First time you see it done you will think the pipe is going to gett hot enough to cave in,trust me it doesn't. Do this in a well ventilated area as it makes a large amount of smoke!

Hi all, I think I may have missed the mark a little when I posted this thread. I understand that we are automatically countersteering with small amounts of input at higher speeds. I just never realised how much difference it made for possible crash avoidance situations at medium speeds. After being taught this technique properly it is surprising just how much input you do impart to the bike to carry out the process at medium speeds,especially on larger bikes. Lets face it, the most likely scenario for a crash is some tool pulling out in front of us whilst we are travelling at say 20 mph and above. That reasonably common case where we can,t stop in time so we have to get around them. It seems to me that this is where this technique carried out somewhat aggressively, becomes very useful. Those of you that are not sure wether you are using this technique to its full advantage, simply are not. My reasoning behind this is that it takes a considerable amount of input to generate the quick,swooping action required to get around the front of a moving vehicle. I know full well that I most definately wasn't dealing with this sort of situation at an optimum level, for the better part of 30 years.Probably more good fortune than skill is the only reason I wasn't collected. Anyway,food for thought. If it turns one riders crash into a near miss, it was worth the discussion. BEST WISHES AND HAVE A BLAST!

DON,T YOU JUST LOVE IT WHEN A KNOB GETS WHAT HE DESERVES?

You are one switched on kid!

I agree with you fully in that anyone that does not agree that this techniqe exists is doing themselves a great injustice. It has improved my bike positioning skills greatly. If riders have the opportunity to be shown this technique correctly, jump at the chance. I have found that not only am i giving the handlebar in the direction of travel a distinct nudge forward, i am also at the same moment pulling back on the opposite bar. I would suggest that people DO NOT practice this technique in the wet and DO NOT use the brakes whilst using this technique. I might be just easily pleased, but i found that this has developed a whole new buzz about riding. Sort of like the first time you ever cornered with a knee down or did a wheelstand. LOVING IT, BEST WISHES.

Hello all, Recently did a rider course that was required for a new job that i started. Even though i had been riding many fast bikes over many years, i had never heard of the term counter steering. Once learning and practising this technique i now believe this to be one of the most useful things that i have been shown when it comes to bike riding. For years when i wanted to avoid an obstacle quickly, i dropped the bike in the direction i wanted to go and gassed it passed the obstacle, then dropped it back to the original line. After being shown counter steering i will never rely soley on the old method again. Most of you are probably aware of this technique. For those of you that are not, you will, without doubt, be amazed at the difference it makes. I am probably a slow learner. If so, i hope this helps the rest of the slow ones out there. BEST WISHES AND HAVE A BLAST.

THATS GONNA TAKE ALOT OF FLOUR !

Whatever way you choose to do it, take your time and enjoy it. Wise move would be to definately do the trip with at least one other rider and when something goes wrong, as it does, don,t split up. If it were me, I would be taking the Quietest roads possible to the ferry and wouldn,t worry if it took 2 days to get there. There is a group in Australia that ride postie bikes over the Simpson Desert each year. They ride 800 miles just to get to the start of their desert trek ! Hope you have a blast!

If you have not been abusing the bike, as in burn outs, dumping the clutch and so on, I most definately would be pushing to claim new chain under warranty. Dealer will be able to tell if chain has been abused. For example is chain overly stretched. If not, they should replace it. Besides, it cost them nothing and it may be the deciding factor as to wether or not you purchase another bike from them in future. Good luck!

Geday Mate, It depends on what you intend on doing with bikes in the future. You may have every intention of stepping up to a 400 or 600 as soon as you can. Depending on your experience and finances you may be better to ride what you have until a major step up in size. We all Know that, generally speaking, every time you up grade you lose money. Having said that, I'm keeping my k6 1000 and Blackbird and when the yzfr125 comes to Australia, I'm buying one. I reckon they would be great fun. No matter what bike your on it is up to you to enjoy the ride. Faster is not always better. Best wishes mate!

May be worth looking into the throttle body, may have some form of restrictor in there. Hold throttle wide open with engine turned off and see if butterfly fully opens. Let me know what you find ! :icon_idea:While you are at it take the exhaust header pipe off the cylinder head and see if there is a restrictor plate in the exhaust port or the start of the header pipe.

Great to see so many people enjoying these little machines. I can,t wait for them to be available in Australia and will be buying one as soon as they arrive. I have had a bit to do with bikes and have some ideas in relation to possibly improving the performance of these bikes. Firstly, If they are in fact hitting the rev limiter in top gear at around 10 500 rpm, no amount of engine tuning or mods will increase the top speed unless you are also prepared to change the secondary gear ratios/sprocket ratios. Without having access to one of these bikes. I don,t as yet know if it is easier to change the front or the rear sprocket. That said, for commuting and having fun up and down mountain ranges I would go about 5 teeth bigger on the rear sprocket. For trying to get say 90 odd mph on the motoway I would drop the standard rear sprocket by about 3 teeth. The increase in top speed will probably only happen for lighter riders as the bike may have problems pulling peak revs in top with the "taller" gearing. This is the area where engine mods start to come in to play. When I get one of these bikes I will have two rear wheels. One with a super sticky rear tyre and the large sprocket and the other with a standard tyre and the smaller cog. Two different length chains will also be required hence why some people may prefer to change the front cog sizes. I have some more ideas concerning exhausts and the like. Let me know if your interested ! Oh yeah, It sounds like you can change sprocket ratios without affecting the speedometer as I believe it is triggered by the front wheel.

The only way a YZF125 will achieve 120 mph is over the edge of a cliff. Old mate is dreaming !