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Led indicators for dt 125


ahaywood93
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Ah right fair enough I'll cut n paste the post

Finally decided to put DT back together as summers almost here. Open up the engine today and find this lol. Top Racing crank around 3 months old. Avoid.

Farnham has my OEM one rebuilding it and I wont be touching Top Racing again

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It was still being run in tbh, didn't really push it.

It always felt a bit dodgy though so i'm glad it's a cut and dry case. Thought oil pump wasn't working but theres oil everywhere so it's just a crap crank.

Apparently the pin was too tight, the bearing isn't seized or anything it was just a clean break.

The crank was just a £100 Top Racing one, £200 cheaper than OEM but i'd have better off just buying a new one

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Thats odd. Kind of self defeating.

Whats the cost of a new crank then.

It did strike me as odd earlier. Does always surprise me that folk feel cheated when a cheap part turns out to be exactly that..

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Personally I'd look for a decent second hand crank, a newish model one with low mileage on it, then buy a con rod kit, big bearing and have it all built up professionally.

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yeah think i will i could order a oem one just to be on the safe side but £300 for a cranks alot to ask i cant seem to find any second hand ones for my bike there all for the older lc ones

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That last one, plus its only £75

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The 34X crankshafts were put in the earlier late 80's DTR's, probably worth checking on AJ Sutton site, see if theres a compatability list on the right hand side of the page, to see if it will go in your bike,I can't see it being different but still worth checking, as I've just noticed it is a brand new crank, and not second hand, the main problem may be the con rod length I think.

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Just checked the earlier DT's had a shorter stroke up until the 3rn1 models.so crank would more than likely be the same but with a shorter con rod, by 0.7mm

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Ill order the second one when im home then just been to my local bike repair shop they said my barrels past re boreing looks like ill be getting that 170 kit sooner rather than later

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Be careful with the 170 Athena kit, it's not just a case of bolting it all on, it has to be played around with and tickled up a fair bit to match up with your bottom end, if you go on the DTR forum, http://dt125r.activeboard.com/ There's some info on there regarding the kits.

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yeah ive ordered the 170 kit, new bearings, the crank that had 4200 miles on, a new ebc clutch kit, some odd and ends some jets for my carb.

going to read up but i know my way around my bike now stripped it down and had the engine out within 3 hours of it blowing up (considoring i had to push it 20 mins)

should beable to do it im going to completely tear down the carb and give it a clean what jet would you reccomend me trying with the kit ive ordered 230, 240, 250 sizes, im goingto borrow a flywheel remover tool off my mate and a clutch holder tool and split it monday the day my crank and bearings come ill freeze them and build the bottom end back the day after then await my 170 kit

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Not sure how the 28mm Mikuni will cope with a 170 barrel, you may also have to go for a bigger carb, I'm running a 32mm Flatslide Mikuni on my Black bike, which has a 2.5mm oversize piston, and that takes the bike to 135cc and the Hybrid is now around 147cc after putting in a 4mm oversized piston in it, and that has a 38mm Keihin on it, Not sure until the bike starts up, whether or not that's too big, but would have thought the minimum would need to be a 32mm size carb.

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The 170 will be fine running the 28mm carb. The difference will be more torque and less peak power with more mid range.

Depends what you want the bike to do. I tried a rd250mm carb on my dt same type just a few mill bigger. Was great flat out but it would not run right any other way. Gave up in the end as the 24 give a big fat blob of torque right through.

Granted i havent a pv though.

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Hopefully it runs fine im going to mess about with the carb untill its perfect im booking my bike test and keeping it whille i have the 2 year restriction so its goto last im hoping i only go through 2 pistons max going to try change before it goes to maximise the life of the barrel and change the oil and air filter every 2500 miles

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The 170 Athena kit i bought for my bike came with a 270 main. same a fitted standard to the tdr 4gw as a 125. Never had any problems fueling wise, me and that bike have been everywhere.

Ahay you must make sure to add some extra oil into the tank every time you fill up. Good quality oil at that NEVER mineral oil EVER even by mistake like me.

Rushing around late like normal and bought some red two stroke oil from morrisons with out reading the bottle.

RED does not always mean synthetic. sneeky carlube very sneeky

8 miles later Bike Seized on route to YOC twostroke met up.

I bet the person who heard that hotline msg learned some new curse words

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Owch i always use rock oil for all my 2 stroke and gear oil anyway, im going to put 2 cap fulls for the first few hundred then 1 cap after wanna wear it in properly ill line the barrel and piston with a light layer of 2 stroke aswell

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