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DT 175 MX Project


philmountains
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My mate once had a 4 barrel holly, seems you got a 4 barrel holy shit :blink:

Right suggestion time mate, get yersen down to your local pound shop, and look around for a grabber, I'll explain, it's about 2 foot long looks like the metal cable bit on a pushbike brake cable, without the plastic covering, very bendy bendy, and at the end you have 3 or sometimes 4 tine grabby type thingy's that come out when, you press a thingy at the top, I got one in my garage but canna be arsed to take a piccy of it, but I'm sure you know what I mean :blink: very useful for any dropped screws ,nuts in awkward places, try sending that down the exhaust pipe, it might work, if not you need one anyway, for said dropped screws and nuts etc, and at a pound canna grumble.

As for the spray booth, I reckon theres a decent mark up at any car boot sale, buy as a greenhouse for £30 bang out for £50 as a multipurpose paint spray/ sandblast booth, this time next year Rodney ;) or were you on about the spray booth mark 1? yes I know its a duvet cover, but an old one.

Thanks Nev I know what you mean will have a look next time in poundland, are there any internal baffels in the expansion chamber ?

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Thanks Nev I know what you mean will have a look next time in poundland, are there any internal baffels in the expansion chamber ?

I didn't think there was, and my lad seems to agree.

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I didn't think there was, and my lad seems to agree.

All,s good in the hood !managed to burn it out last night at work then whilst hot painted it with some H/T paint brought back form US which cost around £2.50 a tin ,how much is it over here ,going to take new barrel to work tonight to check for wear FINGERS CROSSED !!!!!!!!

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All,s good in the hood !managed to burn it out last night at work then whilst hot painted it with some H/T paint brought back form US which cost around £2.50 a tin ,how much is it over here ,going to take new barrel to work tonight to check for wear FINGERS CROSSED !!!!!!!!

Well measured the wear on the bore and is nearly as bad as the others :( 1 thing at least I only paid £15 for this one, what do you guys think to just sticking a new set of rings in ? as money is tight LOL nearly zilch.

Any advise appreciated

Phil

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Well measured the wear on the bore and is nearly as bad as the others :( 1 thing at least I only paid £15 for this one, what do you guys think to just sticking a new set of rings in ? as money is tight LOL nearly zilch.

Any advise appreciated

Phil

Thats the standard 175 bore right? Aye if things are tight go for oversize rings if needs must, but I'd also think about buying a Mitaka 2mm oversize piston when funds allow, at say £50, a small end bearing £12, GENUINE head gasket set (top & bottom)£25, re-bore will set you around £30 quid, or thereabouts, ball park total around £120, give Dave a bell at www.roadanddirtperformancebikeparts.co.uk, he can do the parts, and depending how far from Bradford you are, he can also do a rebore for ya, and in couple of months time you'll have a 185-190cc bike, rinki-dink-dinging.

Finally got my re-bored engine back on Friday,they've done a cracking job on it at Cornish Motorcycles, banged that back in the frame yesterday, bit of a struggle where the swingarm pivot bolt goes through the engine,had to make a podger/drift out of an old lorry push rod,so I could line it all up, but it's in now, and hopefully today I'll be connecting everything back up :)

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Thats the standard 175 bore right? Aye if things are tight go for oversize rings if needs must, but I'd also think about buying a Mitaka 2mm oversize piston when funds allow, at say £50, a small end bearing £12, GENUINE head gasket set (top & bottom)£25, re-bore will set you around £30 quid, or thereabouts, ball park total around £120, give Dave a bell at www.roadanddirtperformancebikeparts.co.uk, he can do the parts, and depending how far from Bradford you are, he can also do a rebore for ya, and in couple of months time you'll have a 185-190cc bike, rinki-dink-dinging.

Finally got my re-bored engine back on Friday,they've done a cracking job on it at Cornish Motorcycles, banged that back in the frame yesterday, bit of a struggle where the swingarm pivot bolt goes through the engine,had to make a podger/drift out of an old lorry push rod,so I could line it all up, but it's in now, and hopefully today I'll be connecting everything back up :)

Mitaka do piston as a quality alternative to original ones, I would never bore bigger than the next size that pistons are available for...these barrels are so rare it's incredible and so boring them to the very last size available doesnt make sense to me

66mm is standard

.25

.5

.75 (doubt you would ever find one)

1.0

Aftermarket replacements

1.5

2.0

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fear not Paul it would appear that Replacement barrels are available NEW from Wemoto (same page for whatever year you put in)

you just gotta find a mere £113 :lol:

yeah i'm aware of these chinese replacements, not sure if they are right or not maybe thay are for the later DT175's ?...

however if wemoto are selling them for early bikes i guess they are and if needs must! but look there must be some other access for the mounting nuts...from the side rather than the top?

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yeah i'm aware of these chinese replacements, not sure if they are right or not maybe thay are for the later DT175's ?...

however if wemoto are selling them for early bikes i guess they are and if needs must! but look there must be some other access for the mounting nuts...from the side rather than the top?

Try this chap in Worcester for barrels, not only does he have early stuff, but his prices are £80 for a standard unbored barrel, £50 for a 1mm overbored barrel, and £30 for a 2mm overbored barrel, Paul Harker 01684 592534

Cornish motorcycles did warn me about going to 2.5mm was pushing it a bit, so I went with 2mm, now in my reckoning that should give me at least 3 years, plenty of time to find any replacement barrels, rocking horse muck rare or not.

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Thats the standard 175 bore right? Aye if things are tight go for oversize rings if needs must, but I'd also think about buying a Mitaka 2mm oversize piston when funds allow, at say £50, a small end bearing £12, GENUINE head gasket set (top & bottom)£25, re-bore will set you around £30 quid, or thereabouts, ball park total around £120, give Dave a bell at www.roadanddirtperformancebikeparts.co.uk, he can do the parts, and depending how far from Bradford you are, he can also do a rebore for ya, and in couple of months time you'll have a 185-190cc bike, rinki-dink-dinging.

Finally got my re-bored engine back on Friday,they've done a cracking job on it at Cornish Motorcycles, banged that back in the frame yesterday, bit of a struggle where the swingarm pivot bolt goes through the engine,had to make a podger/drift out of an old lorry push rod,so I could line it all up, but it's in now, and hopefully today I'll be connecting everything back up :)

Thanks Nev This barrel is 2nd over .50 :( a bit of damage to a fin, exhaust studs helicoiled out to 8mmm not the usual bodged job !!! but like i said a little bit bettter than the other 2 which are also on .50 if it was a original bore without damage i would def save, beg, steal, and get the job done right but well you know ,is it worth it (I AM NOT BUYING ANY MORE THIS IS GETTING SILLY LOL) glad to hear yours is comming on new engine,new frame, bet its looking like new now, did you get engine in without any damage to the frame ?

all the best Phil

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fear not Paul it would appear that Replacement barrels are available NEW from Wemoto (same page for whatever year you put in)

you just gotta find a mere £113 :lol:

Hi Neo I spotted these before, You know thats not that bad a price realy seen them on US ebay ,Singapour at $550 ,thing is no holes for engine bolts, so must just use standard nuts ? and if this is different what else :o

Phil

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thing is no holes for engine bolts

You know I didn't even spot that! :blush:

I must confess I thought the photo on Wemoto was just a stock photo of a barrel.....I'll get me coat! (Fast Show)

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Thanks Nev This barrel is 2nd over .50 :( a bit of damage to a fin, exhaust studs helicoiled out to 8mmm not the usual bodged job !!! but like i said a little bit bettter than the other 2 which are also on .50 if it was a original bore without damage i would def save, beg, steal, and get the job done right but well you know ,is it worth it (I AM NOT BUYING ANY MORE THIS IS GETTING SILLY LOL) glad to hear yours is comming on new engine,new frame, bet its looking like new now, did you get engine in without any damage to the frame ?

all the best Phil

Aye, luckily engine went in o.k no damage to frame, noticed last minute the spark plug had to come out,or that would've caught something, also make a note to yersen, as I read this somewhere, it's recommended that the engine goes in from the right hand side of the bike. ;)

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Aye, luckily engine went in o.k no damage to frame, noticed last minute the spark plug had to come out,or that would've caught something, also make a note to yersen, as I read this somewhere, it's recommended that the engine goes in from the right hand side of the bike. ;)

So boys I can get a pair of .50 rings for £6.00 on Ebay and apart from wear there are no real gouges etc.. would it run ???

Nev will take a note on the right hand side bit ,might even be better if I stuck it in minus barrel ?

Thanks again

And Thanks again Nev your a real Gem to know

Phil

:D

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So boys I can get a pair of .50 rings for £6.00 on Ebay and apart from wear there are no real gouges etc.. would it run ???

Nev will take a note on the right hand side bit ,might even be better if I stuck it in minus barrel ?

Thanks again

And Thanks again Nev your a real Gem to know

Phil

:D

Me personally, I'd put the whole engine in,as when it comes to dropping the barrel on, and you need to line up both rings to their locating pins, theres not exactly a deal of room, much easier to do on the bench, I reckon anyroad, especially as seeing engine is already out, oh and another thing, those £6 quid rings, the price worries me, just as people think they can save a few bob on buying cheap head gaskets instead of genuine and come to regret it a few weeks/months later, as they just don't come up to scratch, if they are genuine rings then great but if not you may thank me on this one mate, ring that Dave up tomorrow at roadand dirtbike, ask him to price some up, he's well clued up, and wont let you spend unnessesarily, on stuff you don't need, last week I rang him for some Boyesens reed petals, he put me on to some Hy-tech carbon ones for less than the Boyesens, and do the same job.

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Me personally, I'd put the whole engine in,as when it comes to dropping the barrel on, and you need to line up both rings to their locating pins, theres not exactly a deal of room, much easier to do on the bench, I reckon anyroad, especially as seeing engine is already out, oh and another thing, those £6 quid rings, the price worries me, just as people think they can save a few bob on buying cheap head gaskets instead of genuine and come to regret it a few weeks/months later, as they just don't come up to scratch, if they are genuine rings then great but if not you may thank me on this one mate, ring that Dave up tomorrow at roadand dirtbike, ask him to price some up, he's well clued up, and wont let you spend unnessesarily, on stuff you don't need, last week I rang him for some Boyesens reed petals, he put me on to some Hy-tech carbon ones for less than the Boyesens, and do the same job.

Thanks again Nev,maybe second thought,s cheap and chearfull is not always the best way to go !!!! Yambits do a set for around a tener and I trust them they are not the cheapest but are great on customer care ,local ,and fast post I am on to it now might make the gathering yet LOL.

And think your theory on the chip frying helped alot last night mate :rolleyes:

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my rear mudguard is in a state extra holes , damage, whats the best for filling these prior to painting ? Oh and Nev got engine stuck in last night, was not too hard, hardest bit was hooking up Engine/carb to airfilter box forgotten how tight a job this was.

Phil

Brought this over to here Phil,

Right then depending on size of hole, up to 6mm, I'd use P38 filler,any bigger than that I'd put duct tape underneath the hole, then fill with p40(fibre glass),any tidying up needed after that, or for a nice smooth finish, go over with P38

Good to hear you've got engine back in, I connected my carb up yesterday, jeez, talk about tight fit, you need to be a bloody gynecologist, to put some parts in.

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Yeh Nev these buggers are tight, I fit front exhaust later on this afternoon and getting the little 6mm nuts on to the studs was a right pain ,or may be its that we have big workman mits LOL.

Looks like painting/filling might be on the back burner again :eusa_doh: I bought another loom in Florida and well I knew as soon as I started to fit I was on a looser again ! have a extra red wire on the feed/loom to the generator and when in the headlight bucket got a big connector missing REDS etc........ feed to ignition I guess , I have another ignition switch but its at work so dont know if this one will be different, minus the extra connector have not bothered to take note of the number on cable, as think this loom might be 125 ? is the extra red for another coil in the generator ? PAUL youve helped me out here before :spin2:

Also Nev whilst were on you know I told you that I had got hold of a new packet of Low Hydrogen Rods ,why are they such a bugger to start is it anything to do with not using a DC set ?Imy mate the welder recomended them and you def can tell diff on Root ,he also told me to swaped leads round but cannot as they are wired straight into set (1950s Triangle air cooled big old thing) any suggestions appreciated boys

All the best and the way your getting on Nev you will be finished for the 2 stroke gathering, that,s if you can aford the petrol/oil to get up from Devon LOL

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Yeh Nev these buggers are tight, I fit front exhaust later on this afternoon and getting the little 6mm nuts on to the studs was a right pain ,or may be its that we have big workman mits LOL.

Looks like painting/filling might be on the back burner again :eusa_doh: I bought another loom in Florida and well I knew as soon as I started to fit I was on a looser again ! have a extra red wire on the feed/loom to the generator and when in the headlight bucket got a big connector missing REDS etc........ feed to ignition I guess , I have another ignition switch but its at work so dont know if this one will be different, minus the extra connector have not bothered to take note of the number on cable, as think this loom might be 125 ? is the extra red for another coil in the generator ? PAUL youve helped me out here before :spin2:

Also Nev whilst were on you know I told you that I had got hold of a new packet of Low Hydrogen Rods ,why are they such a bugger to start is it anything to do with not using a DC set ?Imy mate the welder recomended them and you def can tell diff on Root ,he also told me to swaped leads round but cannot as they are wired straight into set (1950s Triangle air cooled big old thing) any suggestions appreciated boys

All the best and the way your getting on Nev you will be finished for the 2 stroke gathering, that,s if you can aford the petrol/oil to get up from Devon LOL

Bummer about the loom, but ya never know, that other ignition that you have at work might be the one for it, yer rods are being a pig cos you're welding from a cold rod, you need to get them in an oven mate, for two reasons, it stops any moisture from getting into the flux, and therefore into your weld, or perocity is the outcome, and two makes them easier to strike, I always used to have a sacrificial striking plate next to any welding job I was doing, any mild steel flat bar will do, just to warm the rod up with, you'll need to stop before it glows cherry red, and goes floppy, mind.

Done bugger all on bike today, been aching like an old bugger,after yesterdays effort on bike, plus chest been giving me some gyp, and seeing as the next heart wobbler to come is number 4, the missus made me promise to take it easy, so today I've been reading up on manual, but basically just need to put oil, coolant, and petrol in and should start up, fingers crossed, am looking to have it all finished by end of the month, mainly snagging work, yesterday was going to put front wheel on, finds that the bearing is solid, so have ordered new ones, to come next week.

Would love to get up to Squires for the meet up, but just toooooo far mate, last time I was in Sherbourn in Elmet, I was contracting at British Gypsum there for a week, managed to get great digs, and had a right laugh up there with the locals, remember the pub up there the White Swan I think it was, was a good craic, the Friday night disco was dj'd by a bird, unheard of anywhere else in those days.

Luego amigo ;)

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Hi Nev sorry to hear your not 100% mate, its a bummer when your not good :shakeno: I feel crap most days working shifts, its no dam good only the cash LOL,anyway you have something to look forward to geting the DTr finished Eh :hyper:

Re rod s stuck them in oven for 1/2hr, My mate told me to get them to 200deg + must have been near ?but they would have cooled down by the time i got over to welding shop, he uses a mini oven" he called it ? you know the things you keep arrows in ??????? to keep just a boxfull warm.

Anyway had another look a wiring whilst having a smoke in garage stuck cdi to loom , and theres a extra red/yellow so def barking up wrong tree with this one, har well it only set me back $5.00, prob is time ???????

so if this is no good might as well, whist waiting (AGAIN ) buy some paint etc......

Keep in touch Nev and all the best to the rest

Phil

PS. how did you manage to get a pic up on your id :jossun: I tried all sorts but woud only come up with failed and as for BP :eusa_think: not given up yet.

Oh -forgot to mention the bloody kickstarts stuck again !!! could the spring be knackered, needs more tension ? dt looks good with exhaust on though its been lying around homeless since 1995 :eusa_whistle:

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