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restoring dt100 1981 need help !


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Just bought my first bike in slightly more parts than i originally thought it would be in :( but its in much better condition than i expected aswell, just needs asmbly. come into a few problems two main ones at the moment.

1: throttle cable (from the splitter to the handle) has just been changed by me for a brand new one yet it still has the problem of the original one. It doesnt return to idle it just gets stuck. is this common?

2:which areas do the clutch/throttle/front brake go through from handles to there destinations. cant seem to figure that one out. is there a diagram anywhere?

Help would be very appreciated, Chris

p.s. Is there any low chrome mudguards that i wouldn't have to modify to fit my front wheel. (only going to be used on roads)?

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BUY THE BOOK

Its about £15 from most emporiums like Busters or Wemoto.

If you cant afford £15 for the book, then believe me, you CANNOT afford to do a resto!

FFS, £15 is the price of the tax disc at the very end!

Bearings, seals, cables, tyres, paint ALL the bits you are likely to have to buy are going to cost you MANY MANY times the cost of the bludy book!

Question: Would you buy a flat-pack wardrobe from Ikea with no instructions?

Or a Jigsaw puzzle with no picture of what it should look like?

Yet, you and SO many others, (probably chap that took the thing together in the first-place, & sold it to you 'cos he couldn't remember how to put it back together again, hence not GIVING you a manual with the bits!) go get bikes they have NO IDEA how to take apart or put together, are happy to spend hundreds of quid on mechanical its and pieces, or expensive cosmetics like paint, stickers and seat covers, but for SOME reason RESENT paying a few quid for a set of ruddy instructions, that andswer nearly ALL the silly questions they are likely to have to ask along the way!

Dont want to sound snotty, but "DowH!" moment!

It just dont make sense, NOT to have the book, does it?!

Especially if you have bought the bike in bits, and as you say, its your FIRST bike, so presumeably you have little or no prior experience of hoe these things may go together, and not ONLY is it your first bike, but your first restoration, and WORSE, you bought it as a bloomin jicg-saw puzzle!

I've been at this game for thirty years. I've been taking bikes apart since I was old enough to wield a spanner, I learned the craft of spannering in an ad-hoc aprenticeship at the elbow of some time-served master mechanics, before going to university to do a degree in Mechanical engineering.....

I STILL buy the book for a new bike!

Saves looking 'stupid' asking daft questions!

Not harping on here, but, BUY THE BOOK!

Just, well, JUST do it!

You'll learn SO much!

And if it means saving up an extra month or so for the tax at the end, so be it.

Believe me, try putting the bike back together without it; you will be making life hard for yourself, to the point taht there may not BE an end and the tax wont matter! You'll be scratching your head, fretting about all you DONT know, never getting anywhere, making mistakes, and wating time, money and effort NOT getting any nearer to completion!

Are you still reading this!

WHY!

I told you, Busters, or Wemoto!

You should be on thier web-site placing an order for one RIGHT NOW!

Or e-bay!

If your lucky, and you REALLY are hard up, they some-times have second hand ones for about a fiver!

Even new-ones some-times, though for some daft reason often sell for MORE than they do at Busters or We-Moto!

STILL READING! Geez!

I would have THOUGHT you'd have got the message by now!

YOU NEED TO GO BUY THE HAYNES MANUAL!

How more succinctly can ~I put it?!? :-)

Seriousely, get the book, read, enjoy. Take your time, and it should all come together & you'll REALLY enjoy it.

And DONT fret the pennies. If you try doing it 'on the cheap' you'll not get there. sometimes you have to bite the bullet and get the bit you need.

Suspect your throttle cable example is case in point.

Fact that the throttle still jams open suggests that it wasn't the cable, but the carburettor.

Have you stripped and cleaned it?

Why not? Dont tell me..... looked complicated..... you didn't know how.......

ITS IN THE BOOK!

If you'd had that to begin with, you would possibly have fixed that problem easily with a little time, elbow grease and maybe somefine wet & dry sand-paper, and saved the price of your new throttle cable.....

See why SPENDING money on the RIGHT things, like THE HAYNES MANUAL can be a very prudent investment.....

Placed that order for a Work-Shop Manual now? ;-)

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Placed that order for a Work-Shop Manual now? ;-)

Chill out man. the bike is working and 100% complete 100!!, i have fair bit of experience, and i have a complete parts list including diagrams for all and a suplementary serbice manual. just need advice on these small issues for two issues i reckon i should just ask. i am also in australia, so the book costs a fair bit more. god. is there one of you on every bloody forum.

ask more questions before you just 'assume everything and go on a rant.

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Just bought my first bike in slightly more parts than i originally thought it would be in :( but its in much better condition than i expected aswell, just needs asmbly. come into a few problems two main ones at the moment.

1: throttle cable (from the splitter to the handle) has just been changed by me for a brand new one yet it still has the problem of the original one. It doesnt return to idle it just gets stuck. is this common?

2:which areas do the clutch/throttle/front brake go through from handles to there destinations. cant seem to figure that one out. is there a diagram anywhere?

Help would be very appreciated, Chris

p.s. Is there any low chrome mudguards that i wouldn't have to modify to fit my front wheel. (only going to be used on roads)?

Hi, If your DT100 is like the Twin shock DT 100 that was sold in the UK there is a low mudguard that was fitted to the UK bike, the mudguard used the mount lugs situated at the top of the alloy fork leg, the mudguard used 3 support stays 2 on either side on the front and a wrap around one to support the rear of the mudguard, the mudguard came in two sizes one size was for the DT100 with the small diameter wheel and the other was for the DT175 which had a 21" diameter wheel, the problem is that these mudguards are like rocking horse sh*t to get, you might be better using a mudguard from a TY 80 or TY 125/175. http://abergavennymotorcycles.co.uk/1977YamahaDT100.aspx ~ http://motorbike-search-engine.co.uk/classic-bikes-2/yamaha-ty80-gallery.php ~ http://stores.ebay.com.au/Classic-Pre65-and-TY-Trials-Shop

A chrome option I have never seen,

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Chill out man. the bike is working and 100% complete 100!!, i have fair bit of experience, and i have a complete parts list including diagrams for all and a suplementary serbice manual. just need advice on these small issues for two issues i reckon i should just ask. i am also in australia, so the book costs a fair bit more. god. is there one of you on every bloody forum.

ask more questions before you just 'assume everything and go on a rant.

Nah there is just mike and hes a member on lots of forums, ignore him he will go away :rolleyes:

Welcome to the forum btw.

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Thank yyou so much been looking everywhere. do you knowwhich mudguard this is? anything like that would be great

http://abergavennymotorcycles.co.uk/1977YamahaDT100.aspx'>http://abergavennymotorcycles.co.uk/1977YamahaDT100.aspx

Hi,

This mudguard (http://abergavennymotorcycles.co.uk/1977YamahaDT100.asp) Should be the one for the smaller diameter wheel. I think the wheel diameter was 19", and this is the type of mud guard that is like rocking horse Sh*t to find. the same design was also used on the DT125/175 but the mudguard was slightly bigger to fit over the 21" wheel, I would love to find a better one for my bike, so I just keep looking on E-Bay and going to auto~jumbles in the hope I can find one, but please note the fixing lugs on the fork lowers as this is where this type of mudguard fits

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Hi,

This mudguard (http://abergavennymotorcycles.co.uk/1977YamahaDT100.asp) Should be the one for the smaller diameter wheel. I think the wheel diameter was 19", and this is the type of mud guard that is like rocking horse Sh*t to find. the same design was also used on the DT125/175 but the mudguard was slightly bigger to fit over the 21" wheel, I would love to find a better one for my bike, so I just keep looking on E-Bay and going to auto~jumbles in the hope I can find one, but please note the fixing lugs on the fork lowers as this is where this type of mudguard fits

mines an 18" if that helps at all. but thanks for the advice.

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Chill out man. the bike is working and 100% complete 100!!, i have fair bit of experience, and i have a complete parts list including diagrams for all and a suplementary serbice manual. just need advice on these small issues for two issues i reckon i should just ask. i am also in australia, so the book costs a fair bit more. god. is there one of you on every bloody forum.

ask more questions before you just 'assume everything and go on a rant.

You SAID it was your first bike! Doesn't suggest a lot of experience!

And it wasn't a 'rant'... well, per se.... thought I was being mildly humourous...

Nah there is just mike and hes a member on lots of forums, ignore him he will go away :rolleyes:

No I'm still here.....

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You SAID it was your first bike! Doesn't suggest a lot of experience!

And it wasn't a 'rant'... well, per se.... thought I was being mildly humourous...

No I'm still here.....

yeah i guess, its "my" first bike, not the only one ive put together, or serviced etc etc..

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