burton500

I’m assembling a clutch and have mixed up the two thrust washers. One is thinner than the other. Anyone knows which one is which? Cheers.

Cheers, will give it a try

I’ve got a project bike and I need to remove the blind needle roller bearing inside the left hand crankcase. It’s the one the gearbox layshaft sits in. I don’t have a puller but has anyone managed to get the bearing out by any other means? Cheers Lee

Hi I restored a DT from a pile of junk to quite a looker, to the extent is was too good to take off road. Sort of defeated the object really, but anyway, have just sold it. So first of all, thanks to Airhead amongst others for technical advice when asked for. Secondly I put it on ebay at £1250 buy it now, and it went in under 4 minutes, so although I've cleared a bit of profit which was never intended, it looks like prices are buoyant. Cheers and au revoir Lee

Hi, need a bit of advice about the square junction box on the throttle cable. Where the oil pump cable and the carb cable meet, there is a white round plastic housing. Is that round housing supposed to be able to rotate? My one gradually gets pulled in one direction, so that eventually the bike won’t tick over below 2500rpm, because the cable is being pulled tighter. The Haynes manual doesn’t appear to help, so wonder if anyone here has had this happen. Cheers Lee

Hmm very odd. I do have the correct left hand air filter for my model. However, it looks like my bike has the early carb on it then, but with a main 160 jet fitted. I best double check what the other jets/needles/slide etc are!

Just to confirm then, I have a 1981 DT175MX but the carb on it is a 2H501. Should I really have a 3U500? If so it will go a long way to explain why I'm still trying to get the jetting sorted considering the 3U500 has a 160 MJ and the 2H501 has a 130MJ. Cheers Lee

Nice one, many thanks Lee

Hi Re: 1981 DT175MX - can anyone confirm the standard main jet size please? Many thanks Lee

Hi I've got a 1981 DT175MX. The carb on it, which I believe to be original, is model no 2H501. My Haynes manual has the spec for a 2h500, but not the 2H501. What I'm trying to confirm is the correct main jet for this particular carb. The bike came with a 170 fitted, and I reckon that's too rich - the bike struggles to get through 6000, but once through 6000, it takes off. Depending on what you read, it seems 130 or 160 are possible std sizes. Obviously once the main is sorted I can then fine tune the needle setting. Anyone able to help? Many thanks Lee

Hi I've got a 1981 DT175MX. The carb on it, which I believe to be original, is model no 2H501. My Haynes manual has the spec for a 2h500, but not the 2H501. What I'm trying to confirm is the correct main jet for this particular carb. The bike came with a 170 fitted, and I reckon that's too rich - the bike struggles to get through 6000, but once through 6000, it takes off. Depending on what you read, it seems 130 or 160 are possible std sizes. Obviously once the main is sorted I can then fine tune the needle setting. Anyone able to help? Many thanks Lee

You can get the exact symptoms you describe when the main jet comes loose and falls out, whether it's clear or blocked! Happened to me years ago on another bike. Lee

... but i dont wanna let it go to someone thats gonna totally trash it and leave it in a ditch thankyou in advance er no, wouldn't want anyone to ruin it.

Hi I use Motul 710 synthetic in my DT. I use the same oil in my RG500, so if it's good enough for that, it must be fine in the DT. Smells good too! Lee

I had a spoke go on one occasion, so I just replaced that one spoke. Was never a problem thereafter. But as you say, the longer you leave it, the more chance that the others will start going. Lee

Was this a genuine Yamaha coil, or a pattern? Would be handy to know what to avoid.

Got there in the end - thanks for the help OG. It turned out there was a partial break in the red live wire somewhere between the rectifier and the conector in the headlamp. Although the reading was 3v, as soon as a load was put on the circuit it went to nil. Anyway, I've run a new wire from the rectifier to the connector in the headlamp, and all is well.

Right then, 3 volts are going missing somewhere. There are only 3 volts arriving on the red wire in the headlamp shell. Weird. Would the rectifier cause this? Also, is there supposed to be an earth off the battery?

Ok then, having completely refurbed the DT, got it mot'd, I'm now rediscovering my youth bouncing down the green lanes. Yumps, berms and streams, I'm still cocking them all up. However, something went wrong with the electrics yesterday, in that there aren't any. Battery has a full charge, and the main fuse is fine. Engine starts no problem, but lights, horn, indicators and instrument lights are completely dead. All connectors were corrosion free following the rebuild. I guess something has come loose somewhere. Any suggestions on where to start? Any help gratefully accepted. Lee

I can vouch for that - I also run a RG500, and there is nothing quite like the sound of 4 spannies coming on song, and a blue haze out the back.

Voila... - http://wikiscootia.wikidot.com/boost-bottle

It does have a float valve - I reckon they include it as part of the float valve assembly - see http://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-dt175h-1981_model8795/partslist/A-12.html

Unless I'm being a dipstick, I would put the 650cc of oil in, run the engine for a few minutes, turn it off, leave for a few minutes, then check the level. Lee

Yes, good spot. I've got the correct black clocks as well, but the chrome ones were in better condition. Lee

Not listed it yet - but if anyone on here is interested, I'm open to offers!