Variomatic

It's only covered 21k, but a set of clutch plates is £15. I'll probably start with simple things first, clutch cable, then checking springs, and ifnone of that helps then clutch plates. Standard process of elimination is the easiest way

I've been thinking about redoing my entire clutch, new plates, new cable and new springs. It's been getting gradually more slippy and jerky for a while now. But for clutch springs I'd need a torque wrench much more accurate than my deflection style wrench.

Attention YBR owners, I've heard a common issue with the YBR is a clutch that judders on the last little bit of the clutch throw as you're letting it out, apparently it's been like that for as long as the engine has been around. Anyone found a way to fix this? This judder really is starting to get on my nerves, it's impossible to pull away smoothly without burning my clutch unnecessarily. (And yes, I've tried adjusting my clutch cable a million different times)

Don't forget, it's a Yam, needs Yellow powerbands, if he uses the Red Honda ones or another one it could cause serious damage.

Like we've said before, little engines can only breath so hard. 16 is fairly normal but you might not be able to get a 17 to fit, perhaps look at dropping a tooth or two on the back? But like has been said, with such little power you can't expect the earth, you can go up a front tooth or down a back tooth but if you don't have the spare HP to propel you at that speed then that's that. But from a 175cc 2 smoke I would have expected more then 60mph. http://www.motorcycleproducts.co.uk/sprocket-yamaha-dt175-1974-1975-1976-1977-rear-standard-p-157812.html?gclid=CNLpwIzb7MsCFYIW0wodOJ4M7g That's a 37 rear for a DT175, you can give it a go but taking out some gear will probably do little more than hurt acceleration. Only so much can be done with a little engine.

That's the problem, people do exactly that Those guys shit me up the walls, a fat old bloke on a mint condition 1200cc Harley, wearing all Harley Gear who covers 500 miles a year.

Thankfully all the summer bikers are coming out of the sheds for the summer, it's nice to see so many more bikes about. But last spring, and this one I'm noticing a trend, none of them nod, maybe my engine size doesn't please them, or they're just snobs. I don't understand, not a single one I've seen thus far will nod back. Kinda makes me laugh, whilst they sat inside all winter polishing and drinking tea I was out, and now they look down on me.

White smoke could potentially be a bad head gasket, but with only 1K on the bike I very much doubt it, also since it only does it when it's cold it seems unlikely, on the other hand if it it is you can take it straight back to the dealer and they'll have to fix it since it's under warranty. with only being a year old.

Watched this exact video a few days ago, great channel, been subscribed for a while now. I was in the same situation, I'd never even though about that before, great thing to know that will actually save money in the future

Like has been said, likely a gear shift or sprocket shaft seal, I had one leak on the CBR125 on the gear change, it was surprisingly easy to fix. Since you said it only happens when it's been run it could be that it only wants to leak when the oil is hot and less viscous than in a cool state.

Had a mate with a security system like the one linked above. Had it fitted all was well, 2 years later it packed up and killed his moped at a traffic light, removing them is a pain, they're like a rats nest of random wires that are a cancer to your loom. I'd go with something like an Oxford Screamer. Like Slice said, a simple "fuck off alarm" would do the job well probably, thieves are simple creatures, confused by the Alphabet and loud noises. But if you ant one with a remote and such, I'd be sure to get a high quality Jap one.

I could have got some WD40 chain cleaner and lube for £6 today...if I had £6 to my name Ohh well, it'll come again.

Yeah a 125, even a 2 smoke like an old DT will be lacking when it comes to hills, only so much you can do with 7.6ci of pure 2 smoke fury. But then again with it's age a spruce up with a new piston, rings and barrel might give it a bit more poke when it matters, did for me.

Thanks mate but it'd be faster to just wait and buy one, thanks for the offer though Today I took the timing cover off and inspected the cam chain and top sprocket, nothing hanging up there, took them off and the cam turns smoothly, I'm starting to think it's the most monumentally large valve clearance tap that's ever graced a motorcycle, it can't be piston slap, can't be rod bearings, so by trial and error it must be the valves. If it is that it's not a huge thing to worry about

The amount of money I have between now, and one week from now is £0.00. Getting rid of this tap is top of my list of priority but if I don't have the money then I simply don't have the money. Every penny I had was spent on tools and engine components. I'm 100% sure they're not 180 degrees out, I lined the top cam sprocket with the timing mark, and aligned the timing marks on the startor correctly, but I'll check them tomorrow just in case. Problem is to check the valve clearance I need a 24mm spanner, I have a socket bit it doesn't clear the frame so I can't adjust them till I can but a spanner of said size. God forbid Yamaha make it a common size nut on the adjuster cap. Bad news, the tick is back at idle, the way this tick is so "tappy" and sporadic makes me think something is out of adjustment. The exhaust had half the specified clearance and the other was a just little tight, I adjusted them perfectly when the head was of but I can't check them again till I get a new spanner as I said above, it might be that now oil has circulated and it's all tightened down it's not quite happy with what I previously set. I'm praying this is the issue because this is a very simply fix. when I first fired it up, as in the first 2-3 seconds it sounded perfect with no taps what so ever, I'm guessing after oil got to the top end it changed something ever so slightly. But like I've said, every penny of my last payment was spent on engine bits and I have no more money at all for another week. I might have to throw caution to the wind and take a pair of grips to the valve adjustment caps, I can't ignore this. I'm also pondering if one of my cams could actually be gouged, since you can't take my cam out of the head without a slide hammer I had to try and see what condition they where in looking past the valve springs, I may have missed something, perhaps they are in dire need of replacement. The tap is new, meaning it's something I've done

*sigh* The tap is back, but now only at higher RPM. I'm tempted to just ignore the blasted thing, it's seriously winding me up. when I took the head apart the valve clearance where all out (odd, only adjusted them recently) and one of my cams was a little scored, but not enough to warrant a replacement. Maybe that was it, I really don't know.

I love the can, fantastic job

I'm on top with my chain care, it's keep as clean as I can keep it and as well lubricated as I can keep it, I'm perplexed as to why it failed. I had a chain pop off and lock the rear about a year ago, since then I've been very careful with my chain. When I got home I checked the sprockets, chain alignment, chain condition, all where ok. But there's still a high chance this was my fault. I know a guy who lcoked the back end with a popped chain going round a long sweeping bend with his wife on the back whilst doing about 80, somehow he kept it upright for the entire way and didn't drop it, everyone was utterly amazed that he didn't kill himself, hasn't got back on a bike since. Not like that, it's not rod knock, when i took the head off I checked the bottom end bearing and it's perfectly serviceable, no play at all. I've tried taking a video but you simply can't hear the ticking over the sound of the engine running. I'm perplexed, I've checked the cam chain tensioner and it's all good, all the valves are adjusted perfectly, brand new piston, cylinder honed, everything tightened to the correct torque setting. AND to top it off after I fixed and inspected my chain just now I started it our of curiosity and the knock was non existent. {EDIT} Do you think perhaps it could be piston slap? That would make sense since I reused an old cylinder, but on the other hand I could still see the factory hone marks all the way round the cylinder.

Not a single one was available, but I imagine they're some lovely upgrades from the old bits

Some lovely bikes, and I bet it smelled lovely too

Jesus Bloody Christ I had a scare, this tap was concerning, I was riding and suddenly the bike made the most concerning screech, grind, and then the engine died. Well fuck. Residing my self to having killed my bike I look down, the drive chain was snapped, confused I click it into neutral and click the starter and the engine fired right up heasily. I though I'd blown her up, thank god it was just a chain and managed to not crack a hole in the case. What are the chances eh? Bloody master links.

Could be actually, the cam chain did slip off the bottom sprocket, had to wrangle it back over with gentle help from screw driver, I'll take the top cam cover off and check the tension. I'm 90% sure it's nice and tight, I couldn't have assembles it if I though the chain would pop off. I'm almost afraid the cylinder is fucked and it's loose on the piston, but I don't think so because the compression is MUCH higher and all tolerances are tighter now. I used all genuine Yamaha parts by the way so it's not a parts problem. No primary chain, primary is grear drive, but I'll go for a careful ride and see what happens. Also I'll go see if it happens when the clutch is pulled in.

After spending all of last night rebuilding it, and all of this morning bolting everything else back on I filled it with some cheap 10w40 and fired it up. Now it's making a taping noise, think of the sound a valve makes when it's out of adjustment. It's like that sound, coming from the cylinder/bottom end, and it makes it only on the power stroke. I don't have the slightest idea, anyone else have a clue?

You went to a mechanic with a bike that didn't start and he didn't check for spark? You're going to a shit mechanic. Like Cynic said you don't need the "correct back pressure" to run the engine. My utterly fucked YBR ran with no muffler or cat for longer than I like to admit, and didn't skip a beat for the entire time.

I've reused the same exhaust gasket for almost 2 years after taking the exhaust of at least 10 times, no exhaust leek yet. They're not all a universal size, but more often than not I just go find a random one out of my pile of them when I need them for various engines since a LOT of bikes have the same, or a similar size exhaust port. However if you want some new ones: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/XV-125-Virago-5AJF-2000-Replacement-Copper-Exhaust-Gasket-/131330033497?hash=item1e93e14759:g:7YIAAOSwEppUSgW8 http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/yamaha/xv_125_virago/97-00/picture/exhaust_gasket_front_-_aluminium_fibre/ They're really not hard to find, just use google