NE0

Welcome Bicycle repairman, This info any good to you , far right fork capacities for 94 to 96 FZR1000 EXUP https://www.louis-moto.co.uk/en/bike-database/yamaha-fzr-1000-exup/3le-94/0593?back=&categoryKey=ROOT&ipp=48&page=1&sort=name_asc&viewMode=grid OR Better still.... Forks Info for YAMAHA FZR1000 1995 KYB USD 41 mm OD Compression Nut Torque 30 in-lb (0.35 kgf-m) Fork Travel 88 mm Front Sag 37 mm Preload Adjuster 0 mm Range Fork Oil Weight SAE 10 Fork Oil Level 140 mm Oil Quanity2 Standard Preload 20 mm from this page.... https://www.teknikmotorsport.com/complist/yamaha/fzr1000/1995/

Welcome there Wrinkly. Nice to have a new member who introduces himself, the forums a lot quieter these days, but there are a few core members who visit relatively regularly, but its not a patch on what it was ten years ago! Don't be surprised that many days/weeks can go by before seeing a new post though. There's no concern about ownership of other bikes, nobody will comment. I'm 10 years behind you and hopefully won't catch you up too quickly!! Once again, welcome in.

Think you'll find that PM is only available to paid members. I've recently gone from Free to Paid and now I can PM people, whereas that feature wasn't available on my free account. Yup ,confirmed on the https://yamahaclub.com/forums/subscriptions/ page. On the FREE user account on the far right it states:-(Limited functionality - E.g. Excludes use of Garage, Gallery, PM)

Looks like a spammer or bot to me.

Hi Ben, this was asked just before Christmas by another member , this post may help. Mervin provided the answer which may be what you're looking for?

hi Moz, Is there an Engine kill switch on the handlebar controls? This simple switch (if there is one) grounds the ignition, if the live wire that goes to it is grounding before it gets there, then you'll get no spark but the engine will turn over.

If all was fine before it was laid up, then it's going to be related to the fuel and the carb. Whilst 2 months is not a long time, its not unusual, the fuel if left tends to evaporate in the carb leaving behind a sticky brown substance, called petrol gum or other terms, It can form anywhere where any fuel is. The likely area being the jets inside the carb. The starter or idle jet, when that gets gummed up, you get symptoms like you describe, difficulty starting and difficulty maintaining revs. I'd start there, take it apart and clean it out. We'll help you through it if its new to you.

There's also a couple of sets of old Motad exhausts on Facebook to get you on the road again if that's what's required, cheap as under £50, not concours of course! but functional. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1792127614598928/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post I assume as you've had yours rechromed, you are looking for concours, when you say "wrecked", you might of course mean the chrome is awful and can't be repaired, as in chrome removal and reapplied. There again "wrecked" might be that they were damaged, as in crushed and are beyond repair. With so little to go on, its open to interpretation and our imagination! but hopefully these posts may be of some help to you?

wrecked beyond repair? what did they do? Presumably, you've looked on ebay? seller Twowheelspares seems to have several for sale for a 79 XS750. or there's a new 3 into 1 stainless set for one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274402024190?hash=item3fe3a29afe:g:rWwAAOSwoDpjY6YP maybe too expensive for you?

I've looked on you tube, although I couldn't find the YBR250, there is plenty of vids, all very similar. worth a look??

Thanks for taking the time to reply Andrew, however, one would hope that the original question was posted in 2021 so presuambly he's not still looking for it, if you hover your cursor over his name, you'll also see that he lasted visited 2 years ago in Jan 22. Any mods like to lock this post please?

Well...that's two of us!

Happy New Year everyone, although I do wonder with how quiet the website is these days whether it'll still be around by the end of it!

Well folks another year rapidly draws to a close! Here's wishing you ALL a Merry Christmas and prosperous New Year. A special thank you to Alex for keeping the website up and running and to all the mods who keep the site in order. The site wouldn't be what it is though without YOU the members, old and new, paid members and free. (of which after 10 years I have decided to become a paid member!) So to all you visitors, don't be shy and post the occasional reply or start a new topic, because without you we would have nothing to read! All the best for next year NE0

Another resurrection of an old post, this was originally started 14 years ago and the last post was 6 years ago. It should also be noted that the original poster Goff ,who was a moderator, last visited the site in 2011, and many of the replyers also haven't visited recently.

Hi Tom, yes, It appears as completed to me too.

I assume you're referring to your seat which is covered with leather?? and the moisture is coming through the cover and getting on the seat which is going white where its been in contact with the water? If that's the case, yeah unfortunately those waterproof covers are not that waterproof.....maybe shower proof at best. I used to cover mine at work in all weathers, keeps the majority off, but moisture gets though those seams eventually and drips on the bike, I used to cover the seat with a large polythene bag underneath the big cover and a light tension bungee to keep it in place. Worked for me keeping the seat dry. As regards to what products to put on it, well, on the one hand its tempting to put shoe/boot products on, but they're generally meant to be buffed and polished and thats not what you want on a bike seat, you'll be sliding all over the shop. If its genuine leather, you do need to 'feed it/conditioner" otherwise it dries out and cracks. Upholstery products for seats is what you need. I used to use LeatherHoney, but I doubt you can get any in the UK these days. I ended up using Jaguar car leather conditioner for cars/convertibles. it all does the same thing, nourishes and prolongs the leather and adds to its waterproofing ability, bearing in mind its just cow hide, and cows don't mind the rain.

Mervin to the rescue.

Hi there Matt, Resurrecting a 10 year old thread is not seen as good forum behaviour , You really should consider starting a new thread for your problem even if it does relate to the same machine. I suggest commencing a new thread and one of the mods can delete these posts and lock this 10 year post as it never got resolved anyway.

..and Chrome hates water!! and Chrome today is nowhere near the quality it was back in the 50s~70's. Today its considered as "flash chrome", as in a quick flash application to make it look good. Back in its day is was dipped and chromed for longer so it had a thick layer of plating on it. not any more, its just a shiney surface dressing these days. Nonetheless, keeping it looking nice is down to the various non abrasive creams (Autosol) and elbow grease, and when its not being used a generous application of oil type products like ACF-50 to stop the damp getting through it. I've lots of experience being the owner of a Honda 400/4 with more chrome than paint!

If you've got the engine and frame numbers then you need to contact DVLA they will tell you which forms you'll need. It's unlikely but they may shed some light on the original registration....but i doubt it!

I just answered this same post in another section , which I'll delete. Welcome in Paul, I've got a '78 175MX. Although it wasn't registered until late 79. The earlier ones like mine have rounded swinging arm tubes, later squared off tubes are the more common ones seen today. I've got a catalogue of digital photos of my rebuild which may be of some help to you. It's not a dificult bike to restore, parts availability is still reasonable for bike thats over 40 years old.

Well RaySin, lets see.... Haynes or Clymer are the publishers of workshop manuals , unfortunately It doesn't look like they cover your bike......yet! That's not to say they won't in the future. So pdfs and USB versions of yamaha service manuals are probably all thats available at the moment. Ebay is worth keeping an eye on availability of anything, even if you don't want it!. As regards to Chains, they need to be kept oily, a dry chain will squeak and if it's squeaking you're creating wear! too much oil and it sprays all over the wheels and chrome, and too little it will squeak away. Get into a habit of putting it on, chain spray is probably your best bet, it's easy to do. Unfortunately an oily chain also attracts road dirt and sticks to it, causing grinding, you can't win.!!! Chains don't last forever, so it really is down to regular maintenance. It's worth noting that apart from a dry chain or oily chain, there is another condition that chains can get and that's clicking chains from stiff links, it might be only one link but it gives a unique sound. It also means you've not been doing your maintenance! Chains will often play up after wet weather! The other aspects of chains is that over time they stretch! so you need to move the wheel back a tad and still keep the wheel aligned!! Too slack a chain and it will clatter on the chain guard, or jump a cog!! Too tight and your gearbox and sprockets get put under too much tension leading to more wear!! it's ALL a delicate balancing act!! You'll love it!! As regards to filling her up, don't rely on the auto shut off from the nozzle. Bike tanks are not big so it doesn't take much to fill them up. The best advice regardless, is keep the fuel off the petrol tank otherwise your paintwork will suffer. Careful trigger control is the key and keeping an eye on just inside the tank would be my advice. And as you're a newbie, don't hesitate to pull off some of that blue roll all petrol stations have between pumps, and keep it handy to wipe off any spills or drips quickly. And finally, loud pipes... only you will love them. Everybody else older than you will think you're a nob. .....but we've all been nobs at least once! Enjoy...

Hi there, Half way down the page is a contact for your request.. https://www.yamaha-motor.eu/gb/en/service-support/contact/

if you go for them let us all know if they are a suitable fit.