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I don't seem to have a thumbs up one.

Well thats good news, hope it works out for you. As a bit of fun, we have a ranking system within the forum from awarding thanks and likes etc. the more you get it moves you up through the tables. Popular posts can get gold, silver and bronze medals. Its just for fun and not to be taken seriously but it adds to your profile. On posts you'll notice a grey heart on the bottom right, and clicking on it will show a variety of icons. Anyone can click on them and you can click on as many as you like. I've given you a few likes and thanks and now your name will appear on the Leaderboard ranking for the week. You could end up with a gold medal!!

Don't you know anyone in Oz? who could buy it and send it over for you.? Or anyone planning on going over for a holiday?

Hi Dave again, False alarm!!!, item no 16 https://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-dt175-1978-usa_model8652/partslist/D-07.html and only 4 euros each.......but not able to add to cart!! so probably not in stock! back to Oz then!

9 hours ahead in Victoria, Oz. its 02.30 there at 17.30 UK time. No email unfortunately, so looks like you're going to be making a call at 1 or 2 am! Let us know how you get on. Good luck

Hi Dave, welcome in. Yeah this is the trouble with running a 46 year old machine! and the availability of parts! I know I've got a 78 DTMX myself. Not aware of anyone remanufacturing them, but occasionally they will come up as New Old stock as people clear their shelves of old stock if they haven't cleared them already. You don't say where you are and this is a worldwide forum; the site owner lives in Australia and I'm posting from the UK. Certain parts are becoming rarer and are commonly called hens teeth, and these are a good example of them ! Having said that, I've found a pair in Australia for you. https://www.remarcables.com.au/Motorcycle-Parts/Ring-Plastic-Steering.aspx These are only small parts so won't be difficult to post out of Oz, I've bought things on ebay and had them shipped over, its no big deal. Worth contacting them if you want new ones.

P.s.. That rubber plug gives you access to do a visual inspection of the brake shoe thickness. .

On My DT the adjustment stop for the brake pedal is on the frame, you might have something similar, or the bolt may be missing, worth a look??

Hi Doc, same set up as my 400/4, Although on my brake pedal there is an adjustable stop to....well ...stop! whats happening to yours!! It is a case of moving the the drum brake lever on the splines and adjusting the rod to get the best position without fouling the silencer, but there is not a lot of spline positions available as the cut out in the shaft for the pinch bolt limits the available movement. It's just a case of trial and error to find the sweet spot. As regards to the amount of travel, on the one hand you don't want just a touch of your foot to lock the brakes up!, but there again, you don't want to be moving your foot so much that you wonder if the brakes will ever come on!! It's really down to personal preference to how much travel you give yourself for applying the rear brakes, I know when I've adjusted mine, I've thought WOOOHH that's not right!! and promptly readjusted it until i felt it was comfortable. Lengthening the brake rod by adjusting the screw/nut should push the brake pedal away from the silencer Incidently on my 400 I have a brake shoe wear indicator on the hub, new shoes, shifts the rear brake arm further back to accomodate the new shoes, and that in turn repositions the brake pedal. So whilst the brakes may be sufficient for the MOT, they don't actually look at the amount of shoe left, so it might be worthwhile inspecting the amount you have left, as the pedal touching the silencer may actually be the reason and new shoes may also solve your position problem. Hope thats of some help.

Sound advice indeed Snake.

On the plus side , you've got a working key!! and just to reassure, I've looked at the guy on ebay, and he does have good feedback and he only sells keys. So there's every chance it will indeed be okay and you won't lose your bike! Having said that I'm a suspicious ol' scrote just like Snake, but it should always be prudent to check or consider these things in the "Am I giving away too much information" scheme of things!! We look out for each other, but i think it's likely you're safe on this one.

Ok, well, presumably the chain is not touching the chain guard? (if it has one) Then it's going to be a process of elimination, If you're taking the wheel off, then run the motor in gear so the front sprocket just spins, see if the clicking is related to just the sprocket. Then put the chain on, and see if clicks before you attempt to realign the wheel. It may well be chain alignment, I'm sure there are plenty of vids on you tube, here's one.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4m9tdTN2OKo It will only be something simple causing it, especially if it was okay before!! Good luck let us know how you get on.

Hi there, Welcome Stevie, This sounds like it could easily be a dry link/joint on the chain, not uncommon even if new at the beginning, If its gone stiff and can no longer flex and move it will make a clicking noise, the faster you go, the closer the clicking. The front sprocket has the tighter radius compared to the larger rear sprocket so the chain only clicks on the smaller sprocket. Even a bit of crud could be causing the chain links to stick, and it only takes one link to click! Put the bike up on the centre stand and rotate the rear wheel by hand moving the chain over the sprocket, look carefully at the sprocket and chain interface, the dry link will not ride the sprocket correctly each time it comes around. Or take the chain off and bend each link backwards and forwards and somewhere you will find one which doesn't move so freely. Hopefully this will be the cause, its only my opinion based on what you describe, but thats where i would be looking first. Keep us all informed.

SILCA is the brand name of the key, and HON42 is the key code for HONDA. But of course if the cross section is the same as yamaha, then it doesn't matter whether the blank is for Honda or Yamaha. If the blank doesn't match Yamaha then of course there is a outside possibility that the ignition switch and key is from a Honda and has been retro fitted. Just a thought. A useful link to key blanks from the internet. https://ekeyblanks.com/content/IlcoDirectoryVehicle.pdf

Incidently Snake , are you named after this guy or the drink?