PhilDawson8270

they're never worth it, unless you're racing and at the top of your game! larger bikes have so much power and torque, and performance, that putting race and performance parts on them for non competitive use is pretty pointless. Smaller capacity bikes such as 125 etc, don't gain enough from these kind of mods to make them worth while at all. Racing however, yeah they will help get more power, but it's gonna save you maybe 1/100th second per lap at the most, but then again, unless you are exceptionally good, you will probably lose this time in one corner. So, road vehicles, useless. Race machines, more time to be had, for free, by improving your own abilities.

To be honest, the market is tiny, and difficult to make work on a large scale. I build carbon fibre components, the problem is, that as mine are hand made, and in smaller quantities it's extremely difficult to compete with companies that specialise in this kind of thing. Stuff like huggers, chain guards and mudguards etc I can beat on price. But when I priced up doing track bodywork for a friend, it was cheaper for him to buy it from a large company. I only really custom parts now, as it's the only market left.

Did you charge the new battery fully before you fitted it to the bike?

Glad you have traced it back now, as others have said, unplug, unbolt and reverse it. And no, it shouldn't be covered in any kind of powder!

Follow this guide, this will test the full charging system with nothing more than a multimeter. Follow the steps, and it will it narrow down your exact fault. http://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf

buy new rec, unplug old one, plug new one in. I'm off to bed now as work again in the morning. I will post up detailed reg/rec test sequence tomorrow

If you're hearing an electrical sound but it's not turning over then it's likely the battery is flat. If it cut out while riding, it's like the reg/rec isn't charging the battery. Additionally, batteries don't like the cold, and will die quickly if not left on a maintained charger through unused periods in winter,.

To be 100% sure, you could just call Yamaha up, and give them the frame number, they will tell you what the model is within seconds.

already replied to other thread!

Go with EBC HH mine are fine, after 2 trackdays, and about 1000miles, and are still fine! Unless you're a racer, you need no more power. Make sure you copper grease the rear of the pads to stop them squeeling though

haha, cold you say?! I was at Oulton Park for a trackday at 7:30am on 3rd! That was chilly, especially in leathers at 100+

No reason for me to echo what all others have said about it being the better rider, that is obviously true. Out of curiosity here are some figures. YBR 10:1 Compression YZF 11.2:1 Compression YBR 7.5kW @ 7800 YZF 11kW @ 9000 YBR 9.6NM @ 6000 YZF 12.2NM @ 8000 Can see here the YZF is slightly more powerful, but will need to be worked harder to keep the revs higher for the performance. YBR 5speed YZF 6speed This will help with keeping it revvy, as gearing will be short, but may be a hassle town riding. Caster and Trail both are shorter on the YZF giving quicker steering, and wider tyres giving it higher lean angles, and is likely to also have larger ground clearance for faster corner speeds. YBR is 125kg YZF is 138kg So you already have 13kg weight advantage. All being equal the YZF-125R will probably be slightly quicker, but biggest difference will be the handling, unfortunately it is down to the skill of the rider to extract the most from a machines handling.

I'm working Tuesday, so it's looking like I'll be down on Wednesday. Really wanting a go of the enduro, motorcross and trials riding!

If you're not attempting to get it running as well as possible with a smaller airbox, then just make something fit and play about with it till it runs how you're happy with. It all depends what you're aiming for to be honest. I found a lot of internet articles often came with a lot of garbage in them too.

Best thing to do is get down to a library and take a good old fashioned, no bullshit book out about 4 stroke engine tuning.

0.125litres x 1.3 = 0.1625litres so, 162.5cc of filtered air. As above, it's to do with providing smooth air flow, and having readily accesible air for the engine to take on quick throttle openings, this is the job of the airbox (plus protecting it from heat), adjusting the dimensions and volume can affect how the engine runs. 130% isn't a hard and fast rule, but is a popular starting point for air intake systems in motorsports, generally rallying where a lot of people still run airboxes, there's a lot of research around the K&N site about it, if you read around.

For optimum throttle response, you should have 130% of the engine's capacity of filtered air between the filter and the butterfly.

Was bored so wrote a quick Java Application for this. Not sure how to add an attachment on this forum, so here's the source code. // Sprocket calculator class Sprockets { public static void main (String[] args) { // Check correct syntax at runtime if (args.length != 5) { System.out.println("Syntax: java Sprockets OrigRear OrigFront NewRear NewFront TopSpeed"); return; } //Set Variables and calculations double OrigRear = Double.parseDouble(args [0]); double OrigFront = Double.parseDouble(args [1]); double NewRear = Double.parseDouble(args [2]); double NewFront = Double.parseDouble(args [3]); double TopSpeed = Double.parseDouble(args [4]); double OrigRatio = OrigRear / OrigFront; double NewRatio = NewRear / NewFront; double n = OrigRatio - NewRatio; double u = OrigRatio / TopSpeed; double p = OrigRatio + n; double NewTopSpeed = p / u; int RoundedTopSpeed = (int)NewTopSpeed; //Print Result System.out.println ("New top speed is " + RoundedTopSpeed + " MPH."); } } [/code] You'll need to copy and paste to a text editor save it as a *.java file and then compile and run it. It will work on all formats. If anybody wants the actual executable file for this, let me know and I'll email it over, Java Runtime Enviroment is needed for it though.

I think I'm going to be there either on the Tuesday or Wednesday too. Not sure if I'm up on the bike or not though yet.

So, I took the pads out of the R6 earlier, to grease up the slide pin and piston faces etc before winter as I use it year round. The front pads are looking quite a bit worn and battered now, what pads do people recommend? I don't want to spend ridiculous amounts of cash, and the bike is only used on the road.

That's similar to what the guy said when he collected the CBR. The CBR600 was a 1991 model though, and the R6 is 2002

Getting excited, collect the bike on Friday Are the flighty front wheel handling rumours of the R6 true? Or just applicable to the later models? Thinking I should order a steering damper for when I get the bike?

I have a friend who bought a new RS125, he was quite upset when he came out with me to look at some bikes when he could have done his DAS and bought a mid 90s 600 sports for the same cost as his 125.

Thought I'd give you all a shout and say Hi. I'm from the Cheshire in England, and have recently bought a 2002 R6 after selling my CBR600. I'm looking forward to chatting to you guys and finding my way around the forum.