NEV

UP is also stamped into a head gasket, get it wrong way round and your dekcuf

My staffie is more parkarse

Aye agree, it does makes sense, but it did have me thinking mind, that if the bottom of the inner cable got gnarled /chewed up, which can happen, you can just pull it out feed a new one up without taking all the headlamp cowling, headlight etc off. But seeing as both you lads have same idea to feed it from the top, I'll go with that, cheers OG, and Yamahait.

Me personally, I'd put the whole engine in,as when it comes to dropping the barrel on, and you need to line up both rings to their locating pins, theres not exactly a deal of room, much easier to do on the bench, I reckon anyroad, especially as seeing engine is already out, oh and another thing, those £6 quid rings, the price worries me, just as people think they can save a few bob on buying cheap head gaskets instead of genuine and come to regret it a few weeks/months later, as they just don't come up to scratch, if they are genuine rings then great but if not you may thank me on this one mate, ring that Dave up tomorrow at roadand dirtbike, ask him to price some up, he's well clued up, and wont let you spend unnessesarily, on stuff you don't need, last week I rang him for some Boyesens reed petals, he put me on to some Hy-tech carbon ones for less than the Boyesens, and do the same job.

Any body out there recently taken out their inner cables for the Speedo and Rev cable? took mine out today, to clean them and am buggered if I can remember which way round they go, there is a difference in the ends as one end if you feed it through the top stops due to a tiny washer,and the square last inch of the inner cable, or if you feed it through from the bottom of the outer cable stops leaving about an inch of square to sit in the engine for the rev cable, or speedo mechanism on the wheel for the speedo cable, can't find owt in the manual, anybody have an idea? (cough cough, OG)

The 'e' means it's electric start as opposed to the dtr no electric start

Aye, luckily engine went in o.k no damage to frame, noticed last minute the spark plug had to come out,or that would've caught something, also make a note to yersen, as I read this somewhere, it's recommended that the engine goes in from the right hand side of the bike.

Hi and welcome to the madhouse forum Jeddy

Yambits? you can find their number on Ebay, I know their early swingarm bushes and bearings are a decent price.

Congrats Soupz, well done

Ne0, you say you've tried to heat the pin, but after heating have you tried to 'shock'and make the bolt contract, straight after with freeze spray, (I use Loctite freeze spray), I also had same problem with my swing arm pivot bolt, I had to cut that out, and after soaking for 3-4 days with coca cola, it took 3 mins to come out, Failing all this, is there enough room to get a 1.5mm thin cutting disk on it? you may have to sacrifice your rear shock mind, if you can't get the remains of the bolt out, afterwards, the burr shouldn't be that much of a problem, a good drift should get that out, it's more difficult when the heat from the cutting disk has seemed to have welded/brazed it all together so to speak.

Try this chap in Worcester for barrels, not only does he have early stuff, but his prices are £80 for a standard unbored barrel, £50 for a 1mm overbored barrel, and £30 for a 2mm overbored barrel, Paul Harker 01684 592534 Cornish motorcycles did warn me about going to 2.5mm was pushing it a bit, so I went with 2mm, now in my reckoning that should give me at least 3 years, plenty of time to find any replacement barrels, rocking horse muck rare or not.

Hi,and welcome to the forum Denny

Thats the standard 175 bore right? Aye if things are tight go for oversize rings if needs must, but I'd also think about buying a Mitaka 2mm oversize piston when funds allow, at say £50, a small end bearing £12, GENUINE head gasket set (top & bottom)£25, re-bore will set you around £30 quid, or thereabouts, ball park total around £120, give Dave a bell at www.roadanddirtperformancebikeparts.co.uk, he can do the parts, and depending how far from Bradford you are, he can also do a rebore for ya, and in couple of months time you'll have a 185-190cc bike, rinki-dink-dinging. Finally got my re-bored engine back on Friday,they've done a cracking job on it at Cornish Motorcycles, banged that back in the frame yesterday, bit of a struggle where the swingarm pivot bolt goes through the engine,had to make a podger/drift out of an old lorry push rod,so I could line it all up, but it's in now, and hopefully today I'll be connecting everything back up

Pretty much normal Weimie, head lights on when engine runs mate, not too sure about the indicators mind

Congrats Andy, well done mate

I didn't think there was, and my lad seems to agree.

My mate once had a 4 barrel holly, seems you got a 4 barrel holy shit Right suggestion time mate, get yersen down to your local pound shop, and look around for a grabber, I'll explain, it's about 2 foot long looks like the metal cable bit on a pushbike brake cable, without the plastic covering, very bendy bendy, and at the end you have 3 or sometimes 4 tine grabby type thingy's that come out when, you press a thingy at the top, I got one in my garage but canna be arsed to take a piccy of it, but I'm sure you know what I mean very useful for any dropped screws ,nuts in awkward places, try sending that down the exhaust pipe, it might work, if not you need one anyway, for said dropped screws and nuts etc, and at a pound canna grumble. As for the spray booth, I reckon theres a decent mark up at any car boot sale, buy as a greenhouse for £30 bang out for £50 as a multipurpose paint spray/ sandblast booth, this time next year Rodney or were you on about the spray booth mark 1? yes I know its a duvet cover, but an old one.

I'd be inclined to do a visual check on broken fuel lines first mind, but aye it sounds like its yer float chamber sticking

Ya never know, a spline is a spline is a spline,mind you even if the spline was different, I definately think about using your dt lever fitment/clamp and chopping off a crf lever from its fitment/clamp, and welding it onto your dt spline/shaft clamp, thats if all other avenues are closed, just a thought

How about trying your mates CRF gear lever? seeing as you know it's 1 1/2" longer.

Cheers Scott n Phil, Scott the EXHAUST HEAT SHIELD SELF ADHESIVE 500X500MM ALUMINIUM, I got from here LINKY For the rear panel covering the exhaust took me one sheet, but to stiffen the tank panels as well,took me another 500mm x 500mm sheet, with about a foot square piece left over. @Andy, that Acerbis tail tidy I was telling you I'd got, is now finally on. Got the recovered seat, panels and tank back on after spraying, and Phil, you're on about a spray booth, that plastic greenhouse in the background, would make an ideal walk in spray booth mate, you could have it in the garage or outside, zips up nicely and will keep the wind and rain off any stuff inside, I can stand inside it with a little room above my head, £30 quid at Argos, or £60 for one twice as deep, but promise me if you get one, video yourself putting it up, it's deffo a youtube moment, as me like a pratt, put it all together minus the instructions, and just the picture on the box, only to find them neatly wrapped up inside the plastic cover, right at the very end As usual outside it's blowing a huey one minute, sunny the next, then peeing down, so I'm in and out all bloody day, but hope to sort out the spaghetti where the headlamp is, so I can get the cowling back on, should have had the engine back from rebore on Saturday, but the chap supplying the oversized piston sent an RD one and not a TZR oversized one, so I'm playing the waiting game at the min.

Cheers OG, it's this cheap Aussie iphone mate

Finally got the tank finished today, Started it a while back by taking all the paint off Sprayed a few coats of primer Rubbed flat, sprayed about 6 coats gloss black, masked off for green 'rover tara' stripe, pin striped using 3mm Silver tape, gave it top coat of lacquer took about 3 decent coats, finally flattened down with T-cut & maguires scratch X made into a paste, cleaned & buffed, polished and finished with Bilt Hamber autobalm. Hopefully tomorrow, weather permitting I can fit tank on bike, have sprayed tank panels, just need to lacquer those too, also have fitted the aluminium heat resistant fibre glass cloth onto back of tank panels, as I've noticed that because the panels are thin and are flimsy, they tend to make ugly looking white crease marks on the panels, when the wind catches hold of them, I'm hoping the stiffener will stop that. Will put up pics tomorrow.

Weathers given out as cloudy, no rain touch wood, I'll be down about 6.30 ish