DirtyDT

I had one. It was chopped. It's like riding a JCB.....................................but heavier!

This is really a topic for the workshop. Connecting to the rear light means that they can only be operated with the lights on. Not a big issue and something I would consider. I would not use a snap clip but either use an existing bullet connector in that wire and use a double connector or cut the wire and solder the new cable to it. Snap connectors are bad! Due to the power of heated grips I would run this through a relay so the heavy duty cables ran direct from the battery but the low power ran via the relay.

http://news.sky.com/story/1438456/canadians-asked-to-stop-spocking-bank-notes

Riding with the aforementioned "toger" out is not recommended. I guess this will start a series of helmet jokes though!

Not strictly true fella! Today I rode my FZ8 to work but it could have been my classic 250 trials single with slightly more power than a modern 125. A lot of my commute is 50/60/70 roads with national speed limit country roads and a little fast duel carriageway. I just hold my road position on the 250, if they want to overtake they need to cross into the other lane, not squeeze past. I hold the same road position - right of the Middle of my lane - and it's down to them if they want to pass.

So you start the day riding without L plates. You end the year with a giant law suit, dusting big Richards cell ( amongst other chores he likes you to do for him) and finding an extremist religion. Scary!

An interesting thread. One thing that is an, almost, certainty is that it won't be getting easier or cheaper to get a licence in the future. That said, turn the riding without L plates on its head. What's the worst that can happen? Maybe being nicked for no L plates, riding without a licence, riding without insurance, having an accident and having a civil law suit against you for several million quid, finding out at some point later in life that you need to disclose all convictions and those stop you working where you need to, going to prison etc. Simpler to pass a test I would suggest for most people. People may not like the laws and some of us still remember the days when we brought a 250, stuck some L plates on it and paid a couple of quid for an insurance certificate that allowed us to ride "up to" any cc bike which we brought over the counter at the bike shop (Norwich Union insurance pads). I brought my first bike,collected it and rode away with no bike experience. The first few miles were errrr interesting.

There is no logic in the way you plan to finance the bike. If you took out a bank loan, this would be an unsecured loan and not against the bike for the purposes of any HPI check.

If it is for the bikesure discount PM Lee via the forum with a brief summary and your reference number and he should be able to sort things out for you.

It's probably best to see what systems and browsers people are using that are having issues. I am using 8.1 64 bit and it all works fine. That said, I am using Firefox. Can people who are having issues put down what OS. What browser and whether 64/32 bit please? John - I don't use chrome but you may need to look at the add on's. They will be somewhere in the options or tools part of the chrome browser I would guess??

Test Javascript - LINKY

Alarm wires Orange to left indicator - Yes Light blue to right indicator - Yes I can't tell the colours due to a bad PDF I am looking at but I don't think Brown is correct. Not Black. Check the wire colours from the indicators. To be honest, I would do it once, and properly, as it will always bug you.

Black and White to brown - all the browns seem to be connected anyway so any brown should do. That is your imobiliser for the alarm. "Engine immobilisation- there is 3 cables 1) BLACK/WHITE wire 2) WHITE/BLACK wire 3) Grey. Please see pages 12-15 for installation. Recommended circuits are the starter motor or fuel pump relay. (The CPU on Italian motorcycles or the Hall Effect ignition on Harley Davidsons is not recommended.)" The orange and light blue wires from the alarm should go to the power side of the lights - one on each. Make sure that you connect the power side and not the earth, Black and red to electric starter - Not sure if this is the feed which tells the alarm that it has been dis-activated and not to re arm. "Connect BLACK/RED wire to any wire in the ignition system which becomes live when the ignition is switched ON, and remains live when the starter is pressed e.g. power feed from ignition switch to fuse box." This one is a difficult call and would need testing. If this is in use when the alarm is off then this is the non self arming wire. If this is only in use with the alarm on then this is a secondary imobiliser. This is an important wire and MAY stop a mistaken push of the key fob, when riding, from cutting the power and setting off the alarm. This needs to be connected right for your safety.

Got to agree. Plus you don't have additional hassle when insuring (Non standard size tyres). These company's spend millions of Yen on development; they should, and sometimes do, know best. Put the saved money into the "next bike" pot.

Are you sure that the Black/white wire is not the alarm immobiliser that will ground the power if active?

All working for me Windows 8.1 and Firefox. Try clearing all history and flushing the DNS LINKY

Ooppps. yep 90mm. I am saying that if you pick a fatter tyre - and I don't recommend that - I would look for somthing with a very similar side wall height. I would stick to a a 100/90 TBH.

Brown is the power wire after the ignition, Brown and white the feed to the indicator switch. If you power the brown wire connected to the flasher will not the indicators only flash if the indicator switch is on, and then only one side?

if you had 100/100 tyre then the measurement width would be the same as the tyre wall measurement. As an easy example: If you have a 100/100 the tyre would be 100mm wide and 100% of the tyre width wall length -100mm wall. If you had a 100/90 the tyre would be 100mm wide and 90% of the tyre width wall length - 90mm wall. If you had a 100/80 the tyre would be 100mm wide and 80% of the tyre width wall length - 80mm wall. and so on. However; If you had a 120/90 the tyre would be 120mm wide and 90% of the tyre width wall length so 120 X 0.9 = 108mm wall. If you had a 120/80 the tyre would be 120mm wide and 80% of the tyre width wall length so 120 X 0.8 = 96mm wall Therefore: If the standard size tyre is a 100/100 and you put on a fatter 120/90 tyre the sidewall would be 8mm higher than standard (108mm - 100mm). If you put on a 120/80, the sidewall would be 4mm lower than standard 100mm - 96mm) If you you went for 120/100 because you thought it would only change the first 100 to 120 in the original spec, you would end up with a 120mm sidewall which is 20mm over standard!! In the front tyre this would alter the speed accuracy. On either tyre it would change the handling characteristics. 100/100 Remember the first part - in blue - is width size in mm. The second part - in red - is the percentage of the first part in mm. Will that do?

Look for 90/90 18 front and 100/90 16 rear.

3.50 is inches wide. 16 is wheel rim diameter. 3.50 is 100/90 converted. 100/90 is 100mm wide and 90 is 90% of the width of the tyre; so 75mm (edit: the 75mm is wrong but corrected later in the thread) tyre wall height. I think that imperial and metric measure from different places on the tyre. Have a look here LINKY

If you are going to fit it, do it properly! Cut, trim, solder and use heat sink insulator tube. Poking wires into gaps is not a good idea.

It depends on the size difference. It affects the handling, your insurance and - for the front tyre - the speedo readout. A fractional change isn't a major problem but keep an eye on the sidewall ratio (the 50, 55 90 bit of the spec) as this is the percentage of the width. A lot of classic riders have to compromise due to tyres being metric sizes now.

http://www.fs1e.co.uk - there you go John

Southend used to be the place to go, mind you I am going back a couple of years. Used to get the green bus from Wood Green bus depot to there and then moved on to riding down, with a couple of mates, in the mid '70's. Into the Kursaal, a bag of chips and then home.