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little dave

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Everything posted by little dave

  1. the other day it was 29.3 F when i left for work. so around 29C although lately its been 40F about 35C more pics as soon as i can get out with a better camera.
  2. well, its been a while since i have been here. so i should explain myself. first off my little dt175 is binned for the time being. it started a horrible ratle in the top end that sounded like the piston came off the connecting rod. and as an early x-mas gift my folks went out and paid for me to get a new ride. I FEEL LIKE SUCH A TRAITOR because its a honda rebel. i will continue to visit here because its such a great place with many friends. drewps, if you need me to pay for the patch, i completely understand. let me know, it dosent make sense for me to have one if i dont ride a yamaha naymore, but i wont leave you screwed. im hoping that you all will look at the pic and understand why i had to get this bike. believe me, if i could have found a v-star at that price and style i would have jumped on it. its a rebel 250 with a blue collar bob kit, rhino liner paint, led tail and turn lamps, shortened exhaust, and dragbars.
  3. shoot, i still remember my first post here. and damned im suprised that any of you talk to me at all. in case you are wondering i made a post ripping all over impatient or dangerous riders. i did it in an insulting way. it was pointed out to me that i was being RUDE. and i made amends. and have gone on to give and get advice since then. and became a part of the community. i think that sometimes, new members are mostly intrested in getting an answer first and making friends later. the answer they need is often of a more instant need than making friends. i do agree that at teh very least they should introduce themselves as it would help to know where they are from to give a beter answer sometimes. but as with picking a mechanic or a new hangout, it is often best to get to know the place before asking for help. although sometimes it can work the other way around. i suppose its hard to hang out and get to know people when all you need is an answer to fix your ride so that you can feel good again. its a shame though that AFTER getting advice, so many members dont check back in and give thanks, or let us know what happened.
  4. its happend to me on rare occasions. NOTHING makes you look dumber than being in a carpark and kicking the bike over, revving it up, and shooting backwards about 5 feet when you let out the clutch. the "im gonna sh*t my pants" look on my face was obscured by the tint in my shield, so i just looked like a doofus
  5. WIN! i call mine "the flea" because its small and matte black, but loves to hop off the line
  6. allrighty, lets get this small little item out of the way first. if you are getting spark. that means that the ONE thing that is responsible for igniting the fuel/air mixture is working like it should. that being said, unless you arent getting air or fuel, or have a lack of cylinder compression. it should run. maybe not well if your fuel air mix is all wonky. but thats the only wire you need to make it run. now, if its a newer bike with some sort of electronic powervalve or something that may be a different story. check on the frame near the forks, there should be some sort of label or badge that states year, model, etc. anybody with more to know than I (which is quite a few of you out there) please feel to correct me if im wrong or am being misleading, as thats the last thing i want. my goal is to help.
  7. when the temps went up last year (spring in vega$ is 90+ f) my bike did the sme sort of thing. eventually i discovered that i had a severely clogged main jet intake tube. turns out that the idiot before me or before him has replaced the banjo bolt and main jet assy with a nasty chunk of lead out of a small calibre firearm.(what their thinking was i will never, ever know (or want to)) during the winter it was a bit starved for fuel but seemed to do ok, but when it warmed up it was running just on the wrong side of too lean and since the air was thinner due to the temp, fuel was not able to be sucked around the chunk of lead as well as it had been before. so im with OG on this one. drop your bowl, pull your main jet and then really clean out the whole tube assembly.
  8. awwww drewps, dont bin it yet. you can still swing it around by its cord to ward off intruders.
  9. thank you merv! thats what i had thought. hence "to span an object" but it was better to ask beforehand so that i didnt find out that it was some sort of bizzare split end screwdriver or something.
  10. thanks to all of you. will i need to remove the oil pump assy and the tach cable before i start? also, i know it may sound dumb, and i probably have one. but whats a spanner? my mind conjures up an image of a crescent wrench. buy im sure its not that. considering that i have rebuilt the carb on the bike and also my car. done my own car brakes and last month swapped out my steering column on my suburban in 2 hours, it seems like something i can handle. the job just sounds more daunting than it is. using glass to make sure the plates are flat is a great idea. i have an old car windshield that would do the trick (haha) this week i shall pop the cover and see what i got going on in there. then i will source the parts. i may as well try switching the plates and such around while im in there. i will be back later on this month when im done to let you all know how it went. (to praise you or curse you) if anybody has more advice i would still like to hear it. until it started slipping, it (the whole bike) was doing well. even gave a camaro a run for his money. hahaha he looked a bit buggered when i kept up with him when he came off the line. my glee didnt last too long tho, but he still had to put more effort into winning than he would have reckoned. i suppose 68-70 mph down a busy street isnt mature at all. but dang tootin it was fun!
  11. sad day, my clutch is strating to slip in the higher revs. when im in 5th gear and at 5k if i go WOT it jumps from 5 to 7k still holds its own speed wise just seems to get to top rev a bit faster than before. so i figured that i may need a new clutch. or parts therein. it started out when i put fresh oil in the box and yes im sure that i used the right stuff. its the same stuff i have been using for the past year and a half. while i was at it i put in a new spark plug, at first i thought that it was just running better, but the gearbox is getting kinda hot. i dont smell burned oil when i take off teh fill cap, but.. anyway, i know that many of my friends here with dt's may know a bit more than i, and would like to know what is entailed in doing the job, or should i just have a mechanic do it. please help. its been a week and im going thru DTs from not riding my dt. i was thinking that i would order all the parts and then if i decided to have a mechanic do it i could give him all the parts, so i would like to know what to buy. also, if anybody has done the job themself, please tell me how it was done. im fairly good with my hands but dont want to get in too deep. thanks a bunch, and im sorry i havent been around as often as i was. new job and all keeping me too busy.
  12. its been a while since i posted here.so heres whats goingon in my life. I almost got a 1983 yamaha v-twin 920 cc bike but it was too big. still riding the dt 175 and added a new custom designed (by me) sticker to the gas tank. i will post a shot here later. god, its been so long since i been here that i dont want to go thru all the new posts. so somebody fill me in on the good ones.
  13. I use soethig similar, on my DT. its a werker 5 amp battery at 6v. it holds out ok, but about every 6 months, the vibratons tend to get to it and render it useless. thank god they have a 1 year warranty.
  14. little dave


    have a good one goff!!!!!
  15. i just logged my ten thousandth mile on the old dt!!! yay!!! ten thousandth of my miles, god only knows how many miles it had on it before. the odometer said 2600 when i got it, but it may have been replaced. not bad for a 36 year old bike.
  16. got it in the mail the other day. brand spanking new. and works just the same.the only thing that i seen different is that the new one has a pair of small holes on the bottom that look as they may be there to allow condensation or etc to drain out. as the rest of you here say: IM CHUFFED!
  17. LOL i think you had it right the first time. the theme to the film could be "blue danube"
  18. he's making a porno... dosent want mom to recognise him....
  19. the speedo for teh 175 was almost $300 for nos. the 125 nos was $89 so if it dosent work i can resell it possibly to somebody here. the only reasonable used 175 speedos were metric. and i found one mph speedo that was crusty as all get out.im not wanting to try and convert from kph with "the plod" behind me anyhow, the lens fix worked, but i decided that when i remounted it to add a washer under the mount pins so that it didnt wiggle as much. as a result the cable pushed against where it screws in everytime that i hit a big bump and loosened the mount nipple. so the inside rotating cup got a little loose and would rub on somthing. i had to take it apart and epoxy the cable mount in place and remove the extra washer that i had used to keep the speedo from vibrating. it worked too. was accaurate and no wobble of the needle for a few weeks. yesterday, the needle started wobbling again really bad at around 40 mph and dosent stop until 50 mph. that is the worst place to have it not working since i have a 45 minute commute in a 45 mph area. the epoxy is holding so now im not sure whats wrong. also it goes dead if i really acclerate hard. so i figure that its just time to fork out for a new one. but if the 125 speedo dosent work, i will be looking to buy a speedo for a 175 and to re-sell the brand spanking new 125 speedo. at wich point i may not be as choosy as to mph or kph. if anybody has one just sitting around please let me know. preferably mph. EDIT: I just did a little more research and it seems that the 125 and the 175 have the same sized front wheel. also in the photos that i have seen, the speedo looks the same. so i think im in good shape. also, just took the bike out for a spin and my old speedo is working fine again. go figure. im closing in on my first personal 10,000 miles on the bike. in 1000 miles ill be there, if the new speedo works, i may put it aside until i pass that benchmark.
  20. i just ordered a speedo from a 1974 dt125 to go on mt 74 dt175. i probably should have asked here before i ordered it, but are they compatable?
  21. yes, chech the points. its a good start. btw, are you gonna use the speedometer? i think i may be needing one.
  22. the right boots can make all the difference:
  23. cant. would love to. but... its quite a trip.
  24. well, i intended to and started with my dremmel. but it was really slow going so i switched to my small angled air die grinder with a 60 grit roloc disk. if you have never heard of a roloc disk. they are the best thing in the world. the shafted piece and flat backer disk mount in your air grinder and it has a threaded hole that the disposable sanding disk just screws into. easy disk changing. no clips or glue.
  25. a while back i posted asking how to take apart my spedometer on my 1974 dt175 in order to tighten the screws on the fac all around to frevent tampering. well. i had to fix it because the screws were starting to loosen badly. after removing the unit. i removed the rubber gasket/bezel. then i used a grinder and made a champher cut all the way around so that it took away right at the point where the crimp edge rolls over the lip that makes up the base of the unit. all the way around leaving a small ring beyond the crimp point which i discarded. here is a short video of the rest. video of removal you will note that i wrote out on the glass. this was in case i decided to take the glass out of the newly removed bezelcap which i did not afterall.
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