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hebrew hammer

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    81 yamaha xs400

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  1. So as the title says, where can I find a good cheap carb intake holder? My current one is older than me! I am looking at z1 enterprises website and hoping there is a lower price.
  2. I think they would be very drastic frame mods as the engine on the 650 is pretty big. If you do the mods (cut the frame and extend along with height) it would probably compromise the frame greatly. Unless you have a engineering background or something like that I would stay clear away from altering the frame. Instead I think you should get a xs650 frame for the engine, even though you would be spending some money for the frame you would at least have peace of mind that your bike will not split in half riding while on the freeway!
  3. what if i don't ahve points? 81's are auto. Also I only turn the key than it pops, I can't even try to start it up.
  4. Did you recently upgrade to taper bearings or is this the stock bearings? How is the steering tight? do you mean it tends to favor certain ranges of motion or is it tight all around? Assuming its old bearings and it favors certain parts of the steering than your bearings might have been worn out at certain spots creating a divot or space. This takes more effort to get out of the divot if its really deep. Now assuming you upgraded your bearings and there is no divots, someone or you might have tighten your lock and yoke nut too tight (that is what happened when I over tightened it). Also another situation is you might have installed certain parts wrong like the top bearing was installed on the bottom or what not.
  5. So guys I changed the fuse box to inline auto fuse and it was great. Than I started to unscrew all the regulator, rectifier and all the good bits to take away the battery box for air pods. Now I did not screw everything back together since I am planning to relocate some stuff to the back of the hump, but do I need to ground certain thing or make them touch metal? I turn on the key and it stays on for about 2 seconds and it burns out.
  6. I do plan on doing kick start only, what kind of batter should I get? Can anyone lead me in the right direction? how do you check a battery for amp hours?
  7. So I will be relocating the battery to the back hump really soon and since my battery has been neglected forever I was thinking of getting a new one. I read on some bobber forums that they just used a very small battery that is the size of your fist and it works? I currently have LED turn signals (will be adding LED tail light too) and changed the headlight to a 35/35w h4 bulb if that information helps any. I know a sealed battery will work but than I would have to make a fiberglass pan for it and have less space for the rest of the electronics since I am clearing the battery box and making the thing look clean.
  8. Because the ones that were currently on it was already broken in half and dried to bits. I did not bother spending the extra 20 because I think the gaiters should be ok on its own .
  9. That is a bargain but I couldn't find anyone that would make it or charge 300+ for it. If they are not that deeply rusted I would sand it down with fine grit and do what you plan to do. If all else fails go to a motorcycle salvage yard, but your chances of finding one would be very slim and even more so trying to find one in good condition. (At least in southern california.)
  10. The daystar ones are the ones that I have, they are extra soft and have some slack on them but they come with zip ties to tie them down. Also I used fork gaiters only, but the boots are so soft I bet I can put a dust cover too but it would be kinda weird...
  11. 1: I just used a dirt bike fork gaiters and cut them to length, I zipped tied the to make the rest fit and it looks pretty good. The xs650 has bigger forks so you will have a little more slop, but I know that the dirt bike fork gaiters are a lot softer and manageable even though you have to cut some length off of it. 2. I sourced out my forks since it was a major component that I did not want to mess up. 3. It looks like the correct one, just do not forget to remove the races when you install them. Sometimes they are very hard to get out and feel like they are welded on the bike, but with some a long screw driver and a mallet/hammer you should get them out. Also don't forget to grease it.
  12. I am not a expert mechanic like drewps and the rest, but i'll take a stab saying that either your left side float has a hole or is adjusted wrong.
  13. As the title says I cannot get the c clip out of the master cylinder. I need to get this out in order to rebuild it, but this clip has given me nothing but trouble. I spent 20 dollars on snap clips/ c clip pliers and 30 dollars on precision screwdrivers and allen wrenches but to no avail. How did you guys remove your C clips? edit: doh stupid typo in title, see how pissed I am!?!?
  14. I would go buy some cheapo ebay OEM ones since mac are not the greatest quality. I went for the 2" wrap. I think I have 100 feet of it and I sure as hell won't use all of it. You have my number if you wanna grab some wrap. But I am not sure of the quality of it since I bought it form ebay. It goes from white and it slowly turns to tan...
  15. is your 2-1 made from mac? If so do not buy another one. Either get a 2 to one fabbed up or get some stock 2-2's. Anyways about the exhaust wrap. I am gonna do my exhaust in tan wrapping, I have heard nothing bad from it. Supposedly the wrap keeps the gas hotter so it will decrease in density and make it get out of the system faster and it keeps the heat away from you. People who wrap it wrong or loose do have problems later on since they created small pocket holes for moisture and crap to get into it, but if you do it right you should not have a problem. Here is a link if you need to find out how do properly do it http://www.bikernet.com/garage/PageViewer.asp?PageID=750 edit: also here is a calculator for how much wrap you need. http://www.heatshieldproducts.com/exhaust_wrap_calculator.php I will be doing my headers next week.
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