Madison Motorsport

Any FZR600 forks from 90-95 should fit without modification.

the usual place to put the 'brain' is under your seat

Toshiba Satellite P300 £500 No room for a desktop

F**k it then, I'll just get a new lappy

Right, so I have at the moment: manufacturer : Intel® type : Intel® Celeron® M Processor 440 clock speed : 1.86 GHz Front Side Bus : 533 MHz 1st level cache : 32 KB 2nd level cache : 1 MB core voltage (AC) : 1.0 - 1.3 V co-processor : integrated in processor Can I replace this with: Intel Celeron D 347 3.06GHz Socket 775 533MHz 512KB L2 Cache OEM Processor * sSpec number - SL9XU * CPU Speed - 3.06MHz * Bus Speed -533MHz * L2 Cache size - 512KB * Manufacturing Technology - 65nm * Thermal Power Design - 86W

Mine would have been 2004 when I had an Iris chain snap on my T/Cat. The chain somehow managed to wrap itself around my left ankle and the swingarm. It cut through my Alpinestars boot and my skin, down to the bone, whilst dragging me along A5 tarmac for about 200 yards.

Does it keep flicking to a certain rev number or speed number?

Any signwriter worth his salt will have thousands upon thousands of bike decals on his PC.

Remove the HT caps off the plugs, unscrew the plugs with a spark plug socket, then re-assemble in the reverse order. Sorry if this sounds sarcastic, but this has got to be dumb question of the week.

If you are having to rely on the brakes that much while leaning, you need to look closely at your riding style - it's all wrong! It seems to me that you are misjudging bends and going in too fast. Maybe on an R1 or R6, you would get away with it, but a T/Cat is not a full on sports bike and needs a little more respect. You need to slow down your entry and maintain that speed up to the apex. Then you can gently apply throttle until you are lifting the bike up again. Then pin it

Requiring a new engine, I wouldn't be parting with more than about £650, assuming the rest of it was in showroom condition. To me in the trade, a new (re-con) engine would cost about £500, then there is the labour cost involved to fit it.

Spark plugs are NGK, model number DR8ES-L. As for the other items, they are all the same as for the YZF1000R Thunderace. A K&N panel filter is part number YA-1089. A Hi-Flo Oil filter is part number HF303. OE fuel Filter is Yamaha part number 1FK-24560-00.

I did wonder why my PMs now have a sending restriction on how many can be sent in a given amount of time

Until it overflows

You may have 35/35w bulbs installed if they are still the originals or OE replacements. You can upgrade to 60/55w but you will need to flatten the tabs on the bulb base to get them to fit. If your reflector is OK then this will help. It is possible however, that the reflector could be fubar'd. An easy way to tell is the colour. If it's anything other than a perfect almost mirror chrome finish, it will need refinishing. The easiest option in this instance is to source a new headlight unit.

10w with standard springs The OE is only 5w which, IME, is a bit too light.

How about a Super Tenere? Or a BMW F650?

As far as I am aware, the frame remained the same throughout those years. However, I am not so sure about the electrical side of things. It would be well worth picking up the loom from the R engine if you can.

I can see what you are saying here and I do agree with most of what you have said. However, don't overlook the fact that any carbed bike will suffer a momentary dip in rpm at idle when accessories, such as lights, are turned on. This is due to the extra demand being put on the electrical system and in turn, the charging system, which is powered by the 'dyno' on the engine. Carbed bikes take a moment or two to recover from this extra load demand. FI engines are better equiped to cope with this, apart from the fact that most modern FI bikes have headlights on permanently anyway.

Your bike will be fuel injected being a 2003 model. You will need to re-map the ECU for ANY modifications to the fuel system away from OE spec. This includes a simple slip on end can. Your best bet would be to purchase a Power Commander and download the appropriate fuelling map from their website to suit your end can and setup. you do have the option of leaving the bike as it is but you won't see any performance gains, fuel economy will slump and the engine will run well away from the optimum mixture causing premature internal wear.

The 1100cc engine will not fit into the 650's frame

What the smeg is a 'Triple Tree'? I presume you are referring to either the upper or lower yoke?

Possible valve clearances and tappets need attention. They should be done at max 24k intervals, or three years (at least that is what I personally recommend). Do you have any history to tell you if either have been done at all?

The EXUP should remain connected electronically with the valve's moving parts removed. This should then be tied up and taped over to keep it clean and secure. Without the electrical connections in place, the rev counter will always go haywire. I personally will not remove an EXUP valve for a customer - it always leads to problems IME. If they want to remove it prior to the bike arriving in my workshop then fine but I will not condone the practise and I certainly will not guarantee that they will not encounter running problems.

I'm in the process of stripping a 1986 FZ400. If anyone needs any parts, please PM me. I'd rather offer them on here before they go on evilBay The CDI and forks are already sold. Pending response, so is the loom.