chrisw

So it was. Apologies for that ! In that case I haven't got a clue !

R6's don't get going until 4000rpm anyway, so to be honest your unlikely to notice much performance difference, all though it could smooth out the throttle responce a bit, however if you lean it out the engine will run hotter and maybe this isn't a good thing at lower revs.

I know the normal 2006 R6 is a totally different bike, but wasn't the 2006 R6R the same as a 2005 R6 anyway? I thought it was!

Never had any problem using parrafin at all, I've been riding years, use my bike all the time and in all weathers and, get decent milage from a chain, so it's not doing my chain any harm. Why should I spend £5 on 500ml of degreaser when I can spend £3 on a whole gallon of paraffin, it's not like I'm soaking the rubber over night in the stuff, and besides the type of rubber makes a lot of difference to the effect caused. As it's stated WD40 can cause rubber to swell but some guy's mentioned doing a test and proved it doesn't on the o rings. Agreed I'm not interested in winning an argument either we're all just giving our "counterpoints" that were asked for in the original comment by 'G-Man'. And as the for the Young and inexperienced or even the old and inexperienced ..... the manufacturers tell you to lube your chain for a reason, they advise a decent chain lube .. don't go thinking you know better than them .. cos you don't !

After 2000 Thundercats Serice Interval changed to every 6k (was previously 4K), however that's the UK not sure about the States. A regular service in IMO is vital to keep your bike running properley. There's more than just changing oil that needs to be done. From changing Spark plugs, regreasing the swingarm/headstock making sure all structal bolts are tight .blah blah blah If it's gone 8k without a service (other than Oil change) then I would recommend one.

Regardless of what WD40 may say on it's website, I'm pretty sure that that will have been wrote well before the modern high powered high reving engines on todays Sports bikes and as such doesn't include such bikes in the claim. It's probably fine for some little chuggalong but not for an R1 or R6 etc, unless you've got yourself in a situation where it's better than nothing at all. I ride my R6 all weathers including the Snow (when we get it), and wouldn't be without a proper chain lube. Any crap that is picked up doesn't stick unless you've let your chain get crudded up with old grease. I probably go OTT when I clean my clean my chain, I always use parrafin and a toothbrush, and about once a month clean in all the nooks and crannies of the chain (only a cold chain) and then let it spin in gear on a paddock stand and douse the sprockets/chain in fresh cold water this clears any muck left on. I then leave it running at above tickover for a few mins to let the water fling off. After it's dried I then give it a moderate application of a Dry chain lube. Then every week I lube the chain again immediatley after riding the bike as the heat in the chain melts the lube slightly allows it to seep past the x rings lubing the internal rollers. I get about 20k to a chain even with the attack of winter road salt. Now if I tried to do that and lubed it purely with WD, I'd have tight links before you knew it. O or X rings do not seal the rollers 100% so using a decent lube on a warm chain makes perfect sense. If you believe WD40 to be so good would you put it in your car engine instead of a proper engine oil ! But it won't work for long as the heat will breakdown the WD40 rendering it useless. As for the chain and sprocket debate, fitting a new chain to old sprokets will allow the chain to have to much for and aft movement as it sits on the sprocket because the gap betwen the teeth of the worn sprockets will be greater than the width of the roller on the chain, under power you may not notice this, but, unless you've got your chain to tight you'd notice it when backing off the throttle as the chain moves to the other side of the trough, this will increase wear in your already worn sprocket and your new chain, and cause unsmooth transitions between on and off throttle. But if non of what we say is of interest to you then feel free to continue usng WD40 and replacing sprockets and chains at different times, and I hope that you're lucky enough not to suffer a drive train failure.

Not forced to be anything to do with it having had new pads or need bleeding. I ride my R6 all weathers and if the bikes had a good soaking then if I leave it stood for a day or 2 .. or even just overnight then the next time I come to move it out the garage the pads have stuck to the disc's .. I just give the bike a shove and it breaks the bond between pads/disc's and it's fine. (I've had the same thing more than this bike as well).

Get yourself a test booked but keep ringing around and see if there's been any cancellations. Last week a friend of mine arranged a test which was going to be the end of September. On Monday he managed to get a cancellation slot and is booked in for 11th Aug !

This is not true at all. On the older Cable operated Speedo's it would be true, but on the electronic Speedo's that an 06 R6 would have, changing the sprockets will change actual spped against speedo reading. If the previous owner changed the front sprocket down 1 tooth then you will be travelling slower for the same revs/same gear combination, and it will have been done so the bike has better acceleration/pickup at the expense of top speed. So if you stick to your speedo yuo know you'll be safe in the limits (unless there's a prob with the speedo)!

Have yo considered buying a Haynes Manual? Not only will this have the wiring but it 'll help you with a whole number of jobs to save you money.

or possibly your just catchnig the Kill Switch enough cut the circuit but not thow the switch over.

Stick to the standard size tyre, it was known that some people use to put a wider rear on but this slowed the handling too much on the Cat. As for what tyre, then it depends what your wanting from it, we don't know what kind of rider you are or what you use it for. If you just get out for the occosional blast then you might want something sticky and not be to concenred about the milage you get from it, or you could be commuting and want the best milage possible. Something Like a Pirelli Diablo will get you decent milage and will be easily sticky enough for a Cat. Tyres a one of those things though, where a tyre that someone loves and is really confident with, doesn't suit someone else and they may prefer a different manufacturer.

I use the Klan heated gloves (full glove not just inner) and they are OK, personally I'd like them a little warmer so you know they're on, instead they stop your hand getting cold without feeling any warmth (although i'm sure they'd be different at this time of year). I wouldn't bother with the undergloves though, the wire elements don't wrap under the fingertips and Klan told me that you may well get a cold spot there. I also had a little problem with the internal wiring, in that itcould do with being a little longer as I can feel it taut between thumb and finger. I might swap to the EXO2 gloves which I think are better .. I know the're Storm rider heated gillet is brilliant. http://exo2.co.uk/

If the tacho jumps up to 8000rpm for and then shows your normal revs then it is your fuel level sender that's causing it. (but not causing the bucking). When your low on fuel, left the tank and you will see the fuel level sensor is secured with 2 screws. Undo these and remove the sensor. It'll be dead easy to fix, a wire will have broken free and you just need to solder it back on ... you'll see where to easy enough.

Definately Diablo's .. excellent grip, excellent wear rate, and the new Diablo Rosso's are even better.

Personally, if the engine has only 15k on it I'd have your current engine rebuilt (by a reputable company), who's to say if you buy a replacement you're not going to be buying something with alot more miles and a problem either already existent of lurking round the corner. But it's all down to economics I suppose and if you can replace the engine for £500 it gives you the chance to strip you existing engine and sell it for spares recouping some of the cost. PRO's and CON'S both ways.

There a motorcycle breakers down the road from myself 'Martyns Motorcycles' (Chersterfield Road, Mansfield) you could try them 01623 422680.

I don't understand this exhaust to be honest, Lazers own figures show BHP to be down when the exhaust id fitted with the baffle removed ! (on an 07 bike)

Page 13 of this weeks MCN .. Bennetts Insurance are wanting people who dog rides with them to email them for a future marketing campaign.

This is what I recently wrote to another topic ! I always used to use Pirelli Diablo's on my 04 R6, I use it eveeryday for commuting but it gets pushed hard accelerating away from lights all the time, also used for recreational use, (approx 15k miles a year). They were fantastic tyres and I'd get about 4500 - 5000miles from a rear. The time before last when I needed to change the tyres the shop didn't have the Diablos in so I tried Bridgestone BT014's ... never felt like they had any more grip and even with the slower winter riding they only lasted 2600 miles. I've just put a set of Pirelli Diablo Rosso's on it and so far so good, plenty of grip, triple compound rear so it should last quite a while. I've changed the front to a 70 instead of 60 series (checked it's ok with insurance first) but I thik I'll go back to 60 next time. Needless to say what my advice would be .... 'Pirelli Diablo Rosso's'

I always used to use Pirelli Diablo's on my 04 R6, I use it eveeryday for commuting but it gets pushed hard accelerating away from lights all the time, also used for recreational use, (approx 15k miles a year). They were fantastic tyres and I'd get about 4500 - 5000m iles from a rear. The time before last when I needed to change the tyres the shop didn't have the Diablos in so I tried Bridgestone BT014's ... never felt like they had any more grip and even with the slower winter riding they only lasted 2600 miles. I've just put a set of Pirelli Diablo Rosso's on it and so far so good, plenty of grip, triple compound rear so it should last quite a while. I've changed the front to a 70 instead of 60 series (checked it's ok with insurance first) but I thik I'll go back to 60 next time.

bottom Right hand side of engine, near where the fairing doubles back on itself along the bottom you'll see the window for viewing.

possibly the head gasket has gone and pressurising the coolant system causing it to overflow. I'd get it down to your local dealer and get it checked out before you do further damage.

right hand side of bike near the bottom of engine there a glass window you can look through, need the bike upright to check level correctly.

exactly as jimmy says, the coils come with the leads but do not include the actual plaug caps, I think of the links I provided was just for plug caps. however, the pick up coil is a totally separate unit (not the same as your ignition coils) so could be that. In all likelyness I'd go for it being the TPS though.