Cynic

With the miles you ride you will notice a difference, though if i may? from my neighbours experience, there is a mileage limit on those carbon wheels. He trained on alloy rims and raced on carbons.

What?, no you cannot do without it. it takes the tightening torque of the spindle, without it you put a massive load directly onto the bearings and the wheel will never tighten properly. Dangerous, nigh on suicidal. Its in a lot more than the thunderace, the yzf 750, fzr600 xjr1300, its a good list. 35 quid new from fowlers.

I had something similar when I used an emergency circlip fix (read bodge I was 17) on a gp100. The jet needle was lose and could move and made the bike do some odd things.

Some know already but , well sometimes things feel like there is a higher order. On the vmax forum there was a fellow selling a set of carbon dymag wheels, i saw the advert September last year time but had neither the money or the need at the time. Fast forward, months of covid lock up, (i keep a little slush fund to pay for my biking which has just gone up through last year). Then the drive hub shat its self and the crap that followed. Well i stumbled back across the wheel add, no comments on the post, wheels had low miles, maybe a couple of thou. With tyres and such and with them being cheap, for dymags, i sent a message on the off chance. Well f me, he still had them, he was waiting for the lockdown to end to ebay them. Sold. Bugger me if i didn't sell the old wheels the same day for 300 quid, flogging some other bits that came with the wheels (short shocks and such). Made total cost to me for a pair of carbon dymags around £600. Bloody amazing to ride on, it really is something of an experience, the lack of rotating mass and the difference it makes to the bike. Took it for a proper 100 mile blat yesterday and it was only just as i was getting home that my head was starting to figure out how to ride with them. Pegs dragging the roundabouts heading back to the village, plenty of tyre left so frame bolts are next . Look killer too.

Considering rd350's pass that test its probably going to be ok. Cannot help further tho.

Just be careful, people buying quickshifters often as not end up asking why their bike is jumping out of gear after a while. They do stress the gearbox. On a race bike the tenths of a second matter and replacing gearboxes is accepted, road bikes, not so much.

Fowlers is the usual glory hole for rarer spares. Don't forget Facebook. Get onto the bigger model specific groups and you can get a lot of specialist knowledge and parts. You just have to wade through the Google experts and (probably non bike owner) rivet couners first.

The only way i have found buying helmets is to go to a shop, tricky i know, and go through them till you find one (if they actually let you try on helmets any more), that fits right. Every time i have gone helmet shopping i have not come back with what i had set out to buy. I would hang on a bit longer, once the bike shops open they will have 12mth old stock they will be desperate to be rid of.

Yeah, i worked in a factory making chemicals and they had a whole list of different stainless tube/bolts for different areas of the plant depending on the chemical and the use, hot, cold, vibration etc. The cheapest was barely more than regular steel and some of the chemicals went through it like hot butter. Other types would outlast anything but mount it on a pump and it would crack in days. The coverall of 'stainless' is a very broad church. Start your own thread mate, you will get proper responses. I have done plenty of wheel swaps, its not hard. Drewpy has actually done what your after to his own TDM he will no doubt reply and know exactly whats involved on that particular bike, if you start your own thread ofc.

Was expecting Monty Python.

Why did you change the piston. I'm not taking the piss, if the piston failed. How can tell you about other issues. For now. Try squirting some oil behind the generator rotor. Some wd on the leak points is also worthwhile. Running for 2 min is enough heat to get any weak gaskets seals to leak. Several small leaks can be worse than 1 biggy.

I would expect the 535 to be an easy swap. Best of luck finding one tho.

You can get keyless systems and isolators for anything 12v, then if you press a button on a keyfob its dead. Wont save you getting robbed and the bike could still get scratched up as they bail but you would not lose it. Had one on a suzuki i owned, ig switch did nothing it was just a dummy. Am looking at the same for my vmax, this one has a transponder you can fit into your gloves and then you put the receiver wherever you choose. Without the transponder being put in the right place nothing doin. This kind of thing, Bikermart: MotoGadget m~Lock Contactless Radio Frequency Keyless Ignition Lock, KEYLESS IGNITION No radio transmitter as such so the villains cannot code grab. I'm only looking at it because the ig is in an utterly stuuuupid place on my vmax. But it could work for you.

The last thing you do is junk the airbox. Clean still air gives performance. The nasty turbulent air at the back of your bike won't. You are likely even pulling exhaust fumes back in. Airboxes with a better filter will always outperform pods/foamies on everything apart from a dragstrip.

Luckily a now upgraded to 'bestest friend ever' from from plain old good mate has let me have long term loan of a 17" rear for the cost of the tyre. Its coming with a new tyre and he just wants it back at the end of the season when im def sorted, with a new tyre. No way am i going to knock that back. Calls are all via answerphone and call back or email contact and I'm not getting any call back from the people supposedly fixing the wheel. I'm not holding my breath. He is posting on fb so he will have seen that i have messaged him asking for the wheel hub back last week and have heard nothing. It did not cost me much of nothing for the wheel so im not actually out of pocket, the wheel is just as fucked as it was and people were quoting 700 to fix it without 100 per cent guarantees it would hold if used in extreme. As said the only real damage is to remove the last traces of my faith of any of the robbing bastards that permeate the aftermarket industry.

Your voltage regulator and or your battery is dead. If your battery is not dead it will be soon. Check your voltage at the battery with it running around 14 is about as high as it should get, maybe 14.5v tops. My dt175 (6v electrics) had a regulator die, blew every bulb and was showing 26v at 7k rpm, yours could easily double that.

South west Wales. So poping is a stretch. I have asked him to send it back. Every other time I have messaged I have got a reply within maybe an hour tops. This time zip. Will try again office hours on Monday.

Generally.. No. Once it's in gear the dogs on the gears should hold things. It's when these gears wear that gears pop out. Sorry.

It's called a detent. The spring and ball work on the selector drum generally so the drum only moves one 'click' at a time.

Well on top of all this covid bullshit were having to deal with someone has finally finished of what little faith i had in human nature today. Found someone who would fix the drive hub on my vmax. Sent it off end of Jan with the sounds of " couple of weeks, end of Feb maybe? with covid its quiet". Sounding in my ears. When i called yesterday apparently its "gone crazy", so ok, i then asked for a ball park, end of the month maybe? (that's another 4 weeks he's had it 6 ). The response of "not sure will have to see how it goes", any parent knows that's a fancy 'NO'. So at the earliest that means getting it back, May/ April. Once i get it back its not just a case of bolting it in there is follow up stuff once its back to me. Gut feeling is (this part of the rear wheel is irreplaceable as the manuf has ceased trading long ago), it will be done sometime this year, more likely will be "If i put it on the system as an official job it will get done a lot quicker", that will rapidly make it a borderline scrap as the person is well known in vmax/custom world and his work is very good, and very expensive. A 'new' 6inch wide 17inch rear wheel is around 850 depending on finish so cut-off from economic terms i feel is prob 500 before replacement with a newer equivalent becomes a serious consideration. So i could even be waiting for fuck all. Any way you spin it my vmax is a dead duck, anything i can source as a replacement would cost enough to wipe out my normal bike 'fund' and some and take months to sort, i cant ride the TDR even if i bring it out of mothballs, which will cost money and prevent fixing the vmax(needs mot, chain, fork seals, gators, steering head bearings, oil/coolant and waterpump seal. TDR prices are rip off high these days pricing them off the road. The gators alone are 70 quid a pair.) for long as changing gear fast enough and often enough with my dodgy left foot ruins things. Looks like im finally going to miss out on any YOC meets. Sorry to rant but im really really fucked off right now. The thought of riding gets me up of a morning, sometimes just being able to even if life gets in the way and its just going to Sanos. This is the first time in literally decades i don't have a bike i can ride.

Wow, moving on from the FJR, that's going to be tricky mate. Hopeless for me to give a view as everything i like is from the last millennium. Also none of the bikes i like are remotely civilised. Maybe a 1200 triumph like Pauls, best i can suggest at litre plus and light(er) although the lighter bits easy, hell you could try my vmax that beats the fjr by 50kg. GL

Pedpartz can sort you out. I have found them really knowledgeable. For once the people on the phone really know their stock and what it does. Have to order online. Del is quick too.

I will say it again. Fit stock rollers and spring. The fancy ones make little difference overall bar fine tuning. Sounds like the bike is pulling way too high a ratio. As said my daughters bike with the 70 kit was a weapon ON STOCK TRANSMISION. A wheelie monster that rocketed away from the lights.

A 500cc race bike, a v8 muscle car with a charger maybe. A scoot. No. Unless you have built a 98cc 25hp racer it won't need all that guff. Get it hot a couple of times. Ride it 5 or 10 miles to make sure nothing leaks or boils up and your good. All I have ever done in (shit) 35 years of riding 2 strokes. That single ring bigbore may only have 6 thousand miles in it if you work it hard. Maybe stay away from long stretches of wide open throttle. Also if it's anything like my daughters bike use spring washers on anything related to the exhaust. Keep an eye on the brackets too they break.

Is it the iron or ally kit? Tbh the stock spring and variator work fine to 50 odd. You only need messing with either when your looking at adjusting the rpm sweet spot. Or you change the gearbox ratio's. Your clutch is good I assume? Again with the belt. Stock is fine. If you have the air seal ally kit that should be run with premix as the pump won't be able to give enough oil. You could maybe add a little to the tank to save having to carry premix. Jet sounds about right. My daughters bike had an air seal 2 kit with a technigas pipe and with all stock transmission and an 85 main would max out at around 55mph with my fat arse on it in a high viz coat. Wheelie'd nicely too. Felt criminal turning it back into a learner legal(ish) 50cc again. Oh as for running it in.. 5 miles to make sure nothing falls off or boils up then nail the fkr. Long story short. Try your stock rollers and springs.