awa355 Posted August 11, 2011 Share Posted August 11, 2011 About to give my 650 its 1st oil change since buying. I'm not sure what grade or brand the previous ( original) owner used. Has anyone found that diferent brands make any difference to the gearbox rumblings, noise, gear shifting, and to general engine performance? I'll probably go with a semi synthetic. Also, has anyone heard of engine failures due to aftermarket oil filters as opposed to OE. filters? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fearless joe Posted August 15, 2011 Share Posted August 15, 2011 the book, and the sticker on mine, say to use 10w30 or 20w40, but i've only ever used 10w40 as its all could get where i was, and since then my local bike place said thats what they would put in it anyway i tried to change my oil today funnily enough, but i cant get the dam drain bolt to undo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awa355 Posted August 16, 2011 Author Share Posted August 16, 2011 the book, and the sticker on mine, say to use 10w30 or 20w40, but i've only ever used 10w40 as its all could get where i was, and since then my local bike place said thats what they would put in it anyway i tried to change my oil today funnily enough, but i cant get the dam drain bolt to undo I have just drained my oil today, The plug took a wee bit of foot power to loosen. I borrowed a fancy hydralic bike lift to support the bike while doing the oil change. Would you believe it, the cradle is a fraction narrower than the lower chassis rails. I had to make up an adaption to reach across the frame. Got that made and found I only just have enough clearance under the frame to slide the lift into place. All worked out okay, I made a secondary support from the handlebars to the garage roof to add a bit of security to the bike's stability. I have to whip the rear wheel off for a tyre change as well, so will give the rear/underside a good clean up while the wheel is out. Do I need to remove the left side cover over the front of the driveshaft? I believe the shaft comes away from the gearbox when the wheel is slid back and out. Is this correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YPVS TONE Posted August 16, 2011 Share Posted August 16, 2011 When I worked for a Yamaha dealer in the 80s we had an XJ750 in where the pattern paper type oil filter had broken up blocking the oil ways to the cylinder head and causing the camshafts to seize in the head which meant a new head and camshafts. And some of the pattern filters used to be more expensive then the Genuine Yamaha ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leatherat Posted August 16, 2011 Share Posted August 16, 2011 Do I need to remove the left side cover over the front of the driveshaft? I believe the shaft comes away from the gearbox when the wheel is slid back and out. Is this correct? No you don't need to remove the cover, the shaft just slides out as you take the rear wheel out. You will need quite a lot of height as the rear wheel will have to be pulled out under the mudgaurg, (eaisier on the Custom than it is on the Classic) and be ready to catch the drive shaft as it comes loose from the gearbox, it will pivot down and hit the floor/ your shin/ bollox or anything else that gets in the way Putting the wheel assy back into the frame is best done with help, getting the shaft in the right place isn't difficult but two people makes the job easier. PS. whilst you have the rear wheel out, remember to check the wheel bearings, last time I had a tyre changed I found that although the bearing itself was fine, it had begun to spin in the bearing housing (Shit soft alloy) which if left would have caused....well not really worth thinking about! The remedy was a couple of well placed centre punch dots a liberal dose of locktite type stuff. As for oil and filters.........I always used a semi synthetic 10w/40, no specific brand, but always genuine filters. The Yamaha oil filter was £22.00 as oposed to a chinese copy off the net for £2.30.........maybe the copy filter was as good as the Yamaha version, but I seriously doubt it and certainly wouldn't want to risk it for a score! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ttaskmaster Posted August 16, 2011 Share Posted August 16, 2011 Silkolene 10w40 here, too. Can't actually recall, but I think it's also semi-synth. Use OEM Yammie spares wherever possible. I also don't trust aftermarket consumables. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awa355 Posted August 17, 2011 Author Share Posted August 17, 2011 Got the genuine Yammy filter and the Yamalube 20w50. Engine sounds fine, What a rigmarole changing the filter! Eight bolts. The mechanic at the dealership told me, that because the Dragstar is only pulling between 2500 to 5000 revs at the range of speeds 30-60mph, I wouldn't gain much by using the synthetic oils. He said, where you have maybe four pistons running at 10-14,000plus revs, then the properties of the synthetic oils would be superior. Said the main focus is on regular oil changes, at the correct mileage. He reckons not to stretch out the changes when using synthetic oils anyway but stick to the factory recommendations. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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