YPVS TONE

To be honest I don't use the Fowlers site to find the part numbers for the parts on the bike but I'll try and send you a link in a PM message to a pdf parts list for the 1983 LC2 model you may find useful.

Here you go https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/search/part/29L-14753-00

Hi Garry If you click on this link it will take you to their parts section and you just type in the part number I listed in the part number box and click on search https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/ I also have a 1983 LC2 model in original Black-Red colours which is virtually standard with standard pipes. Tony

What year is the bike ? Though it sounds like you have an earlier powervalve 1983-1985 or LC2 or F1/N1 models which had the removeable baffles and had the same baffles. Just had a look on the Fowlers website and they are showing in stock at £29.98 + vat each. Part number 29L-14753-00. Tony

Screw the air screw all the way in until it is lightly seated then back out 1.5 turns out and this will give you the default setting. There is no setting for the idle/throttle stop screw as you just screw in or out until you get the correct idle speed. If you still can't get it to tickover by doing the above it may be the pilot jet is blocked and requires the carb stripping and pilot jet blowing out. Tony

I know the DT125R I bought new in 1988 had a BR9ES fitted as standard and it listed a 9 as the standard plug in the owners manual. Even with running in and pottering around town I had no issues with plug fouling and starting so I left the 9 in. The NGK application book says DT125 1988-2004 BR9ES as the standard plug.

Have a look at the spec on the back of the bottle and make sure it says JASO MA as this means its compatible with a bikes wet clutch. Most Halfords have a bike section so if you got it from there you should be ok. If not it sounds like you've picked up car oil.

Looks like yambits have a 2.75 one but not the other two. Perhaps give them a call to see if they can get them. If not try a Yamaha dealer like Fowlers of Bristol. http://yambits.co.uk/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=XJ600S&sort=2a&page=7 Tony

If you check the engine number this should be the same as the frame number on that year providing it hasn't had the engine changed. I have a 1983 350 Powervalve and that has the same amount of digits as yours so there shouldn't be a problem. Tony

If you're sure the carb/jets are clear and there is a good fuel flow to the carb I think I would double check the electrics. You say you repaired some burn't wiring from the stator. Is the wiring ok now and insulated and not shorting to the exhaust or frame? Is there a kill switch on the bars? you should be able to unplug it from the main loom to eliminate this. Does the spark plug come out oiley? I Know you said you replaced it but have you got another to try incase the other one is oiled up. What is the plug cap like and is it screwed into the HT lead fully. If the coil is under the tank a good idea is to remove the tank and try starting the bike in the dark to see if you can see anything shorting out to the frame. You should have enough fuel left in the carb to try this. Tony

Got mine from these chaps for the 350 http://www.allensperformance.com/fj1200.html Got them them a few years back for £14 each and Genuine Mikuni. Yamaha dealer wanted £90 for the pair .

If you have to take the carbs off again it maybe worth checking the little tang on the float that stops the floats dropping too much (NOT the tang that adjusts the float height) as here : http://www.xs1100.co.uk/float.htm Had this on my 350 YPVS if left for a few weeks the carbs would flood even after renewing the float valves and seats and found the small tang needed tweaking to stop the floats dropping to far and putting the float valves out of line. Tony

If it's not starting, while you have the float bowls off make sure the choke jets in the floatbowls are clear if they were as bad as you say. Try and get some carb cleaner to spray in the jets too make sure they are clear. While you have the floatbowls off check the size of the Main jets as in the Data book it says the outer carbs 1 & 4 should have a #105 main jet and the two inner carbs 2 & 3 should be #102.5 Although this shouldn't affect starting it's still worth checking incase a previous owner mixed them up.

The Yamaha Data book I have say's XJ600S/N up to 1995 Pilot Screw 2 turns out. Only screw them in to a lightly seated position to find the starting point before backing them out. Tony

Seem to remember on my DT125MX that had a seat strap fitted you could get away with just undoing one of the strap bolts before removing the seat.

This pic shows the two mounting bolts on the muffler and you can just make out the seat strap fitted. Hope this helps. http://www.gopixpic.com/580/1980-yamaha-dt-175-mx-picture-submitted-by-anonymous-user/http:%7C%7Cwww*bikez*com%7Cpictures%7Cyamaha%7C1980%7C17341_0_10_3_dt%20175%20mx_Submitted%20by%20anonymous%20user**jpg/ Tony

Have a look at the rad cap. It should have a spring loaded flap/valve in the middle of the rubber seal that allows the coolant to be drawn back in to the rad from the reservoir tank when the engine cools down as shown here : http://s215.photobucket.com/user/cooper_man2/media/1063_PARTS_LEFT/1063-131.jpg.html You should be able to carefully lift it up a small amount with your finger and it should spring back down. Tony

I had 1979 DT125MX that had the box section swinging arm and that only had a single mounting bolt for the muffler and my mate had a 1980 DT175MX with box section swinging arm and that had two mounting bolts on the muffler. Ref the tapped hole I seem to remember you could fit a seat strap across the seat and the strap mounted on the frame under the seat. Is there another mounting on the other side that would roughly be inline with the middle of the seat. Tony

Normally the coolant will be between the FULL and LOW marks on the reservoir tank when the engine is cold and go up to the Full mark when the engine is up to temperature and then drop back down to in between the marks as the engine cools.

The early UK spec 4L1/4L0 LC's Didn't have thermostats fitted as standard, it was only on the later YPVS models that they fitted them. As you have suggested I would try retorqueing the head when the engine is cold up to spec and in order of the numbers on the cylinder head. What torque did you do the head bolts upto ? The manual I have says 24Nm or 17 ft-lb. The level in the reservoir will go up as the engine heats up as the coolant in the rad expands and is forced out of the rad cap and into the reservoir and should be drawn back into the rad as the engine cools down.

Certain the Thundercat has a speedo cable driven from the front wheel. Check to make sure it hasn't come undone where it goes into the drive from the front wheel and at the top where it goes onto the speedo. If it looks connected it could be the inner cable has broken. Tony

Found a parts list and owners manual online for the 1996 DT175H that shows it having a vacumn type fuel tap, so looks like the pipe that is blanked off should go to the fuel tap. Have you got a photo of the fuel tap? What position do you run the tap on as with the pipe disconnected it should only work in the "PRI" position. As Cynic has said looks like the 2T pipe is in the backgound. Tony

When you say " is there an additive i need besides 2 stroke oil ?" are you saying you are premixing 2 stroke oil with the petrol ? The RS200 should have an autolube system fitted to save you mixing the 2 stroke oil with the petrol unless a previous owner has done away with it. From memory I think the RS200 had the 2 stroke oil tank under the seat like the RD200 that you kept topped up with the 2 stroke oil. Tony

Quote from the workshop manual " Note: If the machine is run with the battery disconnected the increased voltage across the alternator terminals will rise, causing damage to the regulator/rectifier unit or to the alternator windings" Tony

Did you run the engine after filling with oil to see if the level dropped ? It usually takes a while for the oil to drain down into the crankcase/gearbox from the clutch cover. If you look near the transmission oil filler on the clutch cover you should see an amount i.e 750cc which is the same as 750ml which is what you need to refill with after an oil change. Remember when checking the oil level through the sightglass the bike should be stood upright on level gound with both wheels on the ground. Tony