Do I need a new stator?

[christoph21 0]

My headlight's low beam is for sure burned out and I think that it was unrelated to my new problem. Now, the hi-beam has flickered a few times and has not worked for a little bit once (until i revved the engine up, then it came alive again). I know that a flickering headlight is commonly a stator problem but I just want to double check. If so, do I need to get just the outer stator coil? Thanks again

BTW, I do have 4 aftermarket turn signals in as well. They work at higher revs but tend to stay on constant at idle rpms but that isn't always the case. I can live with that but I hope that's not affecting other things.

Ugh, ELECTRICITY!!

[Airhead 703 1 Vehicles]

more likely a loose connector than a duff stator, start with connections inside the headlamp unit.

[christoph21 0]

I'll check as I have pulled it recently and put it back together so that may be the case. Everything felt solid but that doesn't mean anything when concerning Murphy's Law :/

The bike only has 9,500 miles on it as well so I guess I wouldn't expect a stator problem either.

[christoph21 0]

The bulb is completely dead on both hi and low now. I'm worried something is going wrong. The wires are fine because I tested them with a 78 xs400 light (which didn't fit...ugh) and both beams worked fine. I have a 20A fuse in all of the slots even though only the main calls for it (10A for the rest). When I was throwing in my new signals and having the brake light disconnected and whatnot, I did blow a few fuses checking things. But upon throwing everything back together, all the fuses functioned fine (granted they were 20A now).

[Vincent Moy 0]

The bulb is completely dead on both hi and low now. I'm worried something is going wrong. The wires are fine because I tested them with a 78 xs400 light (which didn't fit...ugh) and both beams worked fine. I have a 20A fuse in all of the slots even though only the main calls for it (10A for the rest). When I was throwing in my new signals and having the brake light disconnected and whatnot, I did blow a few fuses checking things. But upon throwing everything back together, all the fuses functioned fine (granted they were 20A now).

That was what I did when I had headlight problem last time.

1 I got a car battery charger/jumper (self-contain unit, not the cable).

2 Find which pin is gnd and which is hi/low beam.

3 Connected the black cable to the gnd and the red to either one. (Watch for sparks).

If it works then it's not the light problem and look somewhere else.

Hope this help.

[TylerP 0]

Hoe about using a multimeter and checking the charging output?

[christoph21 0]

Hoe about using a multimeter and checking the charging output?

I suppose I could do that. I was going to run the bike and see what kind of amps are running through those wires but my flaky roommate blew up my multimeter checking crap on his firebird. Ugh.

[drewpy 1,589 4 Vehicles]

I did blow a few fuses checking things. But upon throwing everything back together, all the fuses functioned fine (granted they were 20A now).

fuses blow because there is a wiring problem or something is earthing out (eg rectifier)

putting 20a fuses when its suposed to be 10 amp is looking for trouble and is not the way to repair electrics.

[Airhead 703 1 Vehicles]

fuses blow because there is a wiring problem or something is earthing out (eg rectifier)

putting 20a fuses when its suposed to be 10 amp is looking for trouble and is not the way to repair electrics.

mmm, whats that smell??

[TylerP 0]

What year Firebird does he have!

[christoph21 0]

fuses blow because there is a wiring problem or something is earthing out (eg rectifier)

putting 20a fuses when its suposed to be 10 amp is looking for trouble and is not the way to repair electrics.

I admit it was a poor choice. I just ordered a brand new fuse box (old one was shot pretty much)