jock r1

You can't derestrict them because they are not restricted to start with. but The exhaust is worth replacing to get a little more noise and power.

Don't think you will be able to get one for your bike, I had heard haynes were in trouble back then so limited the vehicle books they were doing. Clymer don't have it listed either.

http://www.whitedogbikes.com/cgi-bin/ccp51...900F_L_Reg_1994 http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...em=170047016355 Thats the only things I could find, strange that most of the usual plastic makers don't list the 900.

Halfords do them, in the motorcycle section. or amazon if you want it cheaper and don't mind waiting for it to be delivered.

Are you sure you take it out in the rain.........it looks so clean.

The main dealer should be able to order the parts for you.

Have you checked the levels, they should be topped up to the max-mark. If you switch the headlights on, do the warning lights dim?

You might want to think about getting one of these. http://www.secure-a-bike.com/prijslijst.html http://www.motosafe.co.uk/bikesafe-c19.html Or buy a house with a garage.

Have you checked it's getting fuel?

Well done getting it sold. I had the same when I was selling my car which was a rare Peugeot 205 1FM. I got loads of idiots offering next to nothing but it sold for £3054

You will be needing a relay.

Hi Rob Did you manage to get the airfilter changed, did you find it easy to do? Steve

The fuel tap and the two fuel pipes are on the underside of the tank near the seat end of the tank.(you need to wedge up the front of the tank to gain access to the pipes) The hoses are each secured with a retaining clip - Just squeeze the clip with a pair of plyers to remove and then pull the pipes off. Might be an idea to mark one of the pipes with a bit of tape so you know which goes where when you are refitting them.

They are easy enough to change - if you have a Haynes book it's all in there. Remove rider seat - two bolts remove fuel tank - unscrew front bracket, wedge tank up and then disconect fuel pipes (remember to turn the fuel tap off before removing the fuel pipes) remove rear bolt and lift the tank off. remove airbox belt clip on each carb inlet, lift the airbox out and then unscrew the bolts so you can seperate to two parts. Swap filter and then put it back together refit is reverse of removal If you have a steering damper fitted you will probably have to remove it first - to make it easier and avoid scratching the fuel tank. The R1 runs a dry airfilter so don't use oil on it. and remember to turn the fuel tap on again after refiting the fuel pipes. I would stick to the standard filter unless you are going for a dynojet kit as well Tools required are a couple of screwdrivers, spanner, sockets and a pair of pliers. You will also need a block of wood or something similar to hold the front of tank up. Steve

"allowed"What do you mean by that? A 125 is ok for short trips but I would go for a 600 if your planning on doing any serious miles.

Just drain the old petrol out replace with some new fuel and put a squirt of fuel cleaner in the tank, it's worth a try and will probably be fine. Since you have the airbox off you might as well replace the spark plugs too.

Or remove the sump plug and drain a little out, then top up if nessesary. Don't run it with too much oil in it, it will blow the engine and/or blow oil in to the breathers/airbox.

On the front you will need to remove the fairing panels that the indicators are bolted on to- only a few screws(the indicators are secured by one nut on the inside of the fairing panel), trace the wires to the plugs and remove, then fit the new ones. It should only take you about 10 mins or less per side. The back ones are maybe slightly more difficult you will probably need to take the number plate off, drop the tail/undertray to get at the wires and bolts, possibly remove rear footpegs etc The main dealer will do it for you for a small fee- why not ask them if your not confident doing it?

They are easy to change if you have a few tools (couple of screwdrivers and a socket set is about all thats needed) If you have the LED version you will need a replacement relay which you can get from the maindealer or any bike shop, I put LED mini arrows on my r1 but it failed the MOT because they were not bright enough in daylight, so I changed them for the standard mini arrows which don't need the relay and look good too. Make sure you fit them the right way up (tiny pin hole facing downwards) I fitted mine upside down but I never go out on it in the rain, so it hasn't been a problem (Going to swap them round this weekend)

The key should not be able to come out of the ignition when switched on, so it must have been faulty. Well done with the drilling out, Good luck fitting the new lock set.

I like pirelli for grip and handling but if you want longer life then michelin are a good choice.

I had a divy years ago bought it new in 97, the original tyres(dunlop) were shit grip wise but lasted forever( I got over 8000miles and still had lots on them when I got rid of them), peronally I would go with pirelli, not so good wear for high mileage but I think grip is more important.

I second that, the yam is very nice, I am thinking of getting one for commuting to give my R1 a rest.

probably the immobiliser, a known fault with them meta systems, try asking on www.ukyamahariders.com or www.superbike.co.uk

I agree, it's always want fast but don't have any money. Better off spending that £200-£400 getting the full licence.