Jump to content

sparxooo

Free
  • Content Count

    12
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About sparxooo

  • Rank
    Member

Previous Fields

  • Current Bike(s)
    2006 Yamaha YBR125

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. So, aside from the little o-ring inside the diaphragm cover, the emulsion tube o-ring, and the big honking ones on the carb that connects to the big rubber bit (and the one on the rubber bit), the others come with the pilot screw/throttle screw assemblies. You don't want to know how much they want for the actual diaphragm (which THANKFULLY appears a-ok!) Taking the mix screw/throttle screws out and checking the o-rings on those, they're relatively hard, and the throttle screw one actually is squished out and flattened where the "seat" (washer) has been pushed into it - not sure the spring
  2. Took the carb off today - gave it a bit of a clean before disassembling. The starter cap (that the starter plunger comes through) however, as soon as I touched it, has almost disintegrated. I'm trying to figure out if this has a sealing role, or just to prevent dirt ingress. Small little bits of brown stringy substance around the bowl gasket, but also some present inside the diaphragm and the small orifice in the cover which I pushed out with a nylon brush bristle. Having looked up the price for the o ring inside the diaphragm cover, i'm hoping that they're ok! (£9!) The sta
  3. Feeler gauges on the way to measure the valve gaps - spraying aerosol around didn't affect the bike at all (nor did pinching the hoses to the AIS valve). What did affect the bike is when I removed the air filter the RPM increased slightly and was a little more erratic - air filter back on and it calmed down again. Spraying a tiny amount of brake clean into the air box caused the engine to stumble * a lot * but cleared after opening the throttle. Idling when warmed up for 10 mins, the bike will fluctuate 1400-1500 with no discernible pattern. After riding around (1 1/2 hours earlier),
  4. Hey guys... it's me again! So my bikes gears are fixed - smooth as anything when changing - lovely. Now i'm getting to ride around a bit (aside from the abysmal headlight... that's another story!), i've noticed another little quirk. After riding around for an hour or so, I notice that the idle is closer to 2k than 1.5k. Occasionally when coming to a stop at junctions, with the clutch in, it will stay idling at 2.5-3k+. Opening the throttle a bit, then releasing, sometimes makes it idle down. The throttle (on the bars) is fully shut and even forcing it closed at the bar end does not
  5. As a bit of an update - it appears to be fixed. Haven't managed to get much riding in (and back to work tomorrow), so hopefully from Tuesday next week i'll get a long run in. Removed the pin and re-inserted it with a good 15mmx10mm piece of Alu can to shim the bottom. Whacked that in with a rubber mallet and it slid home quite nicely. New shift shaft also has much less play on the end than the old one. Re-assembling the clutch, "why is this bolt just continuing to spin and not tighten up?" - aah balls it's broke... with a small 1/4" ratchet. After much swearing I managed to drill thr
  6. I have tried this - it helped the 1st -> 2nd issue (but I can live with it if this doesn't fix that issue), but not the downshift issue. This has also been mentioned - as have the low temp aluminium "brazing" rods (essentially brazing the pin when it's in situ), or at a stretch tig welding the pin in.
  7. Thinking back - newish bar ends (the universal type), and actually new bars too at some point - they are not OEM as they don't have the dimple for the switch assemblies to lock into. Having a little bit of entertainment trying to fix it in all honesty - I like fiddling with mechanical stuff. It's a 14 year old bike so has the standard few broken trim fixings on the removable covers, and some cracks to the rear fender. I do feel it was made to look "pretty" by some of the previous owners, and parts somewhat thrown at it (frame fully painted, new clutch, new chain and sprockets, etc). All a l
  8. So, an update on the whole situation. My dad rode my bike around (used to ride 30+ years ago) and had the same issue. Speaking to a friend he said to take the clutch cover off and check the internals. My theory is the bike has been dropped onto the gear lever and it's forced it down, forced the pin (right hole) through the bottom of its hole, and also broken the post for the spring - it's then been repaired with weld, but does not hold the pin tight enough. (You can see the scuffs on the bottom of the casing by my oily rag). As you move the gear lever, the pin moves
  9. You're right - I know i'm only early in my riding career! Adjusted the clutch cable again today, replaced the perch as the mirror thread was damaged and the adjuster was a bit wobbly (pretty sure the bike has been dropped onto its left side previously). Tightened the mid-cable adjuster so there wasn't so much adjustment needed at the handlebar end - at the lever I wound the adjuster out until the lever had no free play, then wound it in 1/2 a turn which left about 10mm free play. Ride out to the car park where i've been practicing - perfect. Gears selected fine all the way there. Bei
  10. Just to add info from todays ride: Keeping upwards pressure on the lever whilst letting the clutch out makes changing 1st - 2nd work 100% of the time. 2nd-5th works 99% of the time (more my technique maybe letting me down here) without holding the shifter up/down. 2nd - 1st is much more difficult - it feels like you're at the bottom of the box, even keeping slight pressure on the lever before bringing in the clutch doesn't help it. Once at a standstill, it'll sometimes go to 1st, or then go to neutral / a false neutral - a slight sharp tap on the lever then will make it go into 1st -
  11. So far i've ridden around my estate, and up to a car park to practice - on the way is when I really noticed it playing up and also in the car park - so ended up riding around in 2nd and just using the clutch (great for practicing clutch control!) most of the time, including pulling away in 2nd, and figure of eights in 2nd too. I just don't want to use 2nd for everything and get lazy on the gear changes for when I go to a bigger bike (if). Points taken on board - i'll still check everything tomorrow and the clutch cable adjustment - but plan for another ride tomorrow eve when it's quietene
  12. Hello peeps! Background: Car driver for 11 years, have rode a motorcycle on 4 separate occasions now (CBT, lesson, two rides of my own bike). My 2006 Yamaha YBR125 is being a bit of a pain in the rear when changing gear (see what I did there?) - to go from first to second it will sometimes get stuck in neutral. Double declutching (letting the clutch out, and then pulling back in) sometimes helps, other times I have to come to a stop, and fiddle with the lever until it finally decides to go into a gear. This is particularly annoying when pulling out of a junction, and going up a hill
×
×
  • Create New...