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sparxooo

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About sparxooo

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  • Current Bike(s)
    2006 Yamaha YBR125

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  1. Hi Jack, If you have seen my thread - you'll see a similar issue with my YBR -and found almost exactly the same issue inside when I opened it up. I didn't drop mine, but highly suspect that's what has happened to it in the past. Don't worry about the gear and coil spring on the very left of the picture, my bike has a kickstarter. Mine was welded - poorly. As a result I had to shim with some extra metal (which so far is holding up). This pin needs to be *solid* and not move at all. Mine had a really small amount of play, but would still prevent me changing gear properly. The pin
  2. I know it's a bit late on - if your model is anything like the earlier models, the headlight ONLY comes on once the engine has started (controlled by the ECU - even if you stall it then it stays on until key off). It will give you marker lights front/rear and brake lights only whilst the engine hasn't started. If you have disturbed any wires behind the headlight, check they're all plugged back in, and in the correct spots.
  3. For many years have been saying "i'll do my CBT". Work colleagues (and fellow bikers) then threatened to book my CBT for me as I hadn't done it yet, so booked it in August. Initially a bit apprehensive of this new mode of transport (having driven for 11+ years along with an advanced driving course), and being extremely hard on myself with mistakes. Every time I now get on the bike I seem to have less apprehension/worry and just ride, worrying less about what i'm trying to do and just doing it. Oh, and my dad now wants another bike too, after having to give his up (a Honda CB400 Super
  4. And our survey says - beautiful. No more hanging idles at all. Warms up quicker, behaves after the choke is taken off (once warmed up enough), and the idle speed is now behaving itself even after riding around. Chain tension question I answered myself - I didn't have the rear on the ground, making the chain more slack than it is when it's on it's wheels. Took off the main stand onto the side stand and the tension is now correct!
  5. The engine is filthy - can't definitely say that there wasn't already oil/fuel on my hands, but it smelled a bit like that cross with exhaust... sticky consistency. Did consider if the o-ring had got extremely hot for some reason and this goo is a bit of o-ring? I took the carb joint off, and the cylinder head o-ring is disintegrating on that side of the goo - luckily it's the same size as the one I took off the carb (replaced), so I still had the old one, which wasn't that bad in all honesty. I could only buy a pack of 1 as the pack of 5 was out of stock... otherwise i'd have had a spare
  6. Update: Valve clearances set - 0.10 for intake 0.12 for exhaust as per Haynes/Service manual. The intake was at <0.08 and the exhaust was < 0.10. Spark plug replaced (and gap checked). Air cleaner looked new. Carb rebuilt - new viton o-rings for all carb internals, new bowl gasket, all jets/passageways clear (and blown out with cleaner and left to dry). New throttle screw/starter/mix screw set (as only way to get the seats/o-rings/cap). New throttle cable (as mine was kinked) - £8 jobby off eBay turned out to be the wrong one, so went OEM instead. Started up f
  7. So, aside from the little o-ring inside the diaphragm cover, the emulsion tube o-ring, and the big honking ones on the carb that connects to the big rubber bit (and the one on the rubber bit), the others come with the pilot screw/throttle screw assemblies. You don't want to know how much they want for the actual diaphragm (which THANKFULLY appears a-ok!) Taking the mix screw/throttle screws out and checking the o-rings on those, they're relatively hard, and the throttle screw one actually is squished out and flattened where the "seat" (washer) has been pushed into it - not sure the spring
  8. Took the carb off today - gave it a bit of a clean before disassembling. The starter cap (that the starter plunger comes through) however, as soon as I touched it, has almost disintegrated. I'm trying to figure out if this has a sealing role, or just to prevent dirt ingress. Small little bits of brown stringy substance around the bowl gasket, but also some present inside the diaphragm and the small orifice in the cover which I pushed out with a nylon brush bristle. Having looked up the price for the o ring inside the diaphragm cover, i'm hoping that they're ok! (£9!) The sta
  9. Feeler gauges on the way to measure the valve gaps - spraying aerosol around didn't affect the bike at all (nor did pinching the hoses to the AIS valve). What did affect the bike is when I removed the air filter the RPM increased slightly and was a little more erratic - air filter back on and it calmed down again. Spraying a tiny amount of brake clean into the air box caused the engine to stumble * a lot * but cleared after opening the throttle. Idling when warmed up for 10 mins, the bike will fluctuate 1400-1500 with no discernible pattern. After riding around (1 1/2 hours earlier),
  10. Hey guys... it's me again! So my bikes gears are fixed - smooth as anything when changing - lovely. Now i'm getting to ride around a bit (aside from the abysmal headlight... that's another story!), i've noticed another little quirk. After riding around for an hour or so, I notice that the idle is closer to 2k than 1.5k. Occasionally when coming to a stop at junctions, with the clutch in, it will stay idling at 2.5-3k+. Opening the throttle a bit, then releasing, sometimes makes it idle down. The throttle (on the bars) is fully shut and even forcing it closed at the bar end does not
  11. As a bit of an update - it appears to be fixed. Haven't managed to get much riding in (and back to work tomorrow), so hopefully from Tuesday next week i'll get a long run in. Removed the pin and re-inserted it with a good 15mmx10mm piece of Alu can to shim the bottom. Whacked that in with a rubber mallet and it slid home quite nicely. New shift shaft also has much less play on the end than the old one. Re-assembling the clutch, "why is this bolt just continuing to spin and not tighten up?" - aah balls it's broke... with a small 1/4" ratchet. After much swearing I managed to drill thr
  12. I have tried this - it helped the 1st -> 2nd issue (but I can live with it if this doesn't fix that issue), but not the downshift issue. This has also been mentioned - as have the low temp aluminium "brazing" rods (essentially brazing the pin when it's in situ), or at a stretch tig welding the pin in.
  13. Thinking back - newish bar ends (the universal type), and actually new bars too at some point - they are not OEM as they don't have the dimple for the switch assemblies to lock into. Having a little bit of entertainment trying to fix it in all honesty - I like fiddling with mechanical stuff. It's a 14 year old bike so has the standard few broken trim fixings on the removable covers, and some cracks to the rear fender. I do feel it was made to look "pretty" by some of the previous owners, and parts somewhat thrown at it (frame fully painted, new clutch, new chain and sprockets, etc). All a l
  14. So, an update on the whole situation. My dad rode my bike around (used to ride 30+ years ago) and had the same issue. Speaking to a friend he said to take the clutch cover off and check the internals. My theory is the bike has been dropped onto the gear lever and it's forced it down, forced the pin (right hole) through the bottom of its hole, and also broken the post for the spring - it's then been repaired with weld, but does not hold the pin tight enough. (You can see the scuffs on the bottom of the casing by my oily rag). As you move the gear lever, the pin moves
  15. You're right - I know i'm only early in my riding career! Adjusted the clutch cable again today, replaced the perch as the mirror thread was damaged and the adjuster was a bit wobbly (pretty sure the bike has been dropped onto its left side previously). Tightened the mid-cable adjuster so there wasn't so much adjustment needed at the handlebar end - at the lever I wound the adjuster out until the lever had no free play, then wound it in 1/2 a turn which left about 10mm free play. Ride out to the car park where i've been practicing - perfect. Gears selected fine all the way there. Bei
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