sparxooo

Truthfully, why would you want one? The only time i'd use a killswitch over just turning the key I guess would be if I broke down at the side of the road at night - and even then - your lights will not last long on the 7Ah battery. You can just stall the engine out if you want your dipped headlight to stay on (once engine starts, mine comes on). You can probably get a replacement switch unit from a breakers/eBay, or just retrofit a switch from eBay as you've got. If the switch doesn't document what wires do what then you'll need to work it out with a multimeter!

On my wiring diagram (for a 2005 YBR), the solid blue wire I think you're talking about runs to the neutral switch - it then connects to ground. The wire appears to run to the generator side of the engine, by the front sprocket. Test the switch directly at it's contacts (should ground likely when in neutral), the wire may also be broken at some point between the front and rear of the bike.

Hi Jack, If you have seen my thread - you'll see a similar issue with my YBR -and found almost exactly the same issue inside when I opened it up. I didn't drop mine, but highly suspect that's what has happened to it in the past. Don't worry about the gear and coil spring on the very left of the picture, my bike has a kickstarter. Mine was welded - poorly. As a result I had to shim with some extra metal (which so far is holding up). This pin needs to be *solid* and not move at all. Mine had a really small amount of play, but would still prevent me changing gear properly. The pin allows the shift shaft to return to it's central position after each shift. My next option was to have the pin welded in place - and the final option to replace the actual crank case. I would also check that your shift shaft is not bent out of shape, and that the gears all work as intended by shifting it manually by turning the shift drum - this is easier when the spring is taken off that holds the stopper arm. I can't see it properly from your video, but it looks like one arm of your shift shaft is actually broken (that grabs hold of the little pokey bits on the shift drum star). Definitely check around your engine for any broken bits and (although you most likely have already) drain all the oil and replace with fresh once you button everything back up.

I know it's a bit late on - if your model is anything like the earlier models, the headlight ONLY comes on once the engine has started (controlled by the ECU - even if you stall it then it stays on until key off). It will give you marker lights front/rear and brake lights only whilst the engine hasn't started. If you have disturbed any wires behind the headlight, check they're all plugged back in, and in the correct spots.

For many years have been saying "i'll do my CBT". Work colleagues (and fellow bikers) then threatened to book my CBT for me as I hadn't done it yet, so booked it in August. Initially a bit apprehensive of this new mode of transport (having driven for 11+ years along with an advanced driving course), and being extremely hard on myself with mistakes. Every time I now get on the bike I seem to have less apprehension/worry and just ride, worrying less about what i'm trying to do and just doing it. Oh, and my dad now wants another bike too, after having to give his up (a Honda CB400 Superdream, and a BSA Starfire 250) because I came along!!

And our survey says - beautiful. No more hanging idles at all. Warms up quicker, behaves after the choke is taken off (once warmed up enough), and the idle speed is now behaving itself even after riding around. Chain tension question I answered myself - I didn't have the rear on the ground, making the chain more slack than it is when it's on it's wheels. Took off the main stand onto the side stand and the tension is now correct!

The engine is filthy - can't definitely say that there wasn't already oil/fuel on my hands, but it smelled a bit like that cross with exhaust... sticky consistency. Did consider if the o-ring had got extremely hot for some reason and this goo is a bit of o-ring? I took the carb joint off, and the cylinder head o-ring is disintegrating on that side of the goo - luckily it's the same size as the one I took off the carb (replaced), so I still had the old one, which wasn't that bad in all honesty. I could only buy a pack of 1 as the pack of 5 was out of stock... otherwise i'd have had a spare new one! The old one wasn't sitting proud of the joint and squished flat. Cleaned all mating/sealing faces before reassembling. Old NGK spark plug was a light brown but had a white haze appearance to the ground electrode. I don't know how old this plug actually is - there is 1152 stamped on the hex portion (date code?), which would align with a service docket I have from 2011 for a service. Also did a bit of tweaking of the fuel screw, and found that at 1 3/4 turns out, the idle is much more stable. and after a ride around tonight the idle didn't change from the starting idle speed. From what i've read about these bikes being set a bit lean from the factory, this would make sense (the VM22 guide I found online refers to it as an air screw, but on my carb, it controls fuel flow into the intake). Something I also noticed - I can now rev the bike whilst the choke is on (even before my mix screw fiddling)... which I couldn't do before (it'd just die). So something has definitely changed - but as to what, I don't know!

Update: Valve clearances set - 0.10 for intake 0.12 for exhaust as per Haynes/Service manual. The intake was at <0.08 and the exhaust was < 0.10. Spark plug replaced (and gap checked). Air cleaner looked new. Carb rebuilt - new viton o-rings for all carb internals, new bowl gasket, all jets/passageways clear (and blown out with cleaner and left to dry). New throttle screw/starter/mix screw set (as only way to get the seats/o-rings/cap). New throttle cable (as mine was kinked) - £8 jobby off eBay turned out to be the wrong one, so went OEM instead. Started up first time (after remembering to turn on the fuel) - tweaked the idle to keep it running once warm, set the mix screw to 1 1/2 turns out. The thorough inspection I did after putting it all back together (under bright torch light) now reveals some dark brown sticky goo, located on the joint between cylinder head and carb joiner, but only on one side... all that seals it is an o-ring on the parts diagram, and didn't spot it before - but that can wait - got no more hanging idles and runs like a trooper! Throttle seems much more responsive (whether placebo or not), and I *almost* think it has a bit more power... well maybe not

So, aside from the little o-ring inside the diaphragm cover, the emulsion tube o-ring, and the big honking ones on the carb that connects to the big rubber bit (and the one on the rubber bit), the others come with the pilot screw/throttle screw assemblies. You don't want to know how much they want for the actual diaphragm (which THANKFULLY appears a-ok!) Taking the mix screw/throttle screws out and checking the o-rings on those, they're relatively hard, and the throttle screw one actually is squished out and flattened where the "seat" (washer) has been pushed into it - not sure the spring would have done this by itself, so wonder if someones rammed it in in a past life! The ones i've ordered are allegedly fuel resistant rubber - even if it gets me going a bit quicker than waiting for the parts from Yamaha - WeMoto are grand but they're only as quick as the supplier. A mysterious box of unicorn magic the carb really is - had quite an afternoon exploring all its internals and wondering where on earth tubes lead to (then finding it comes out in a tiny little hole). That, combined with a tuning guide which explains what jet gets used when, really has helped me understand what it's up to! No grease is specified in the Haynes manual for inside the carb - Lithium salt grease for the engine side of the rubber mount. I've greased the inside of my new throttle cable with some lithium spray grease, after toying with using silicone spray, or the little bit of clean engine oil that's dripped into the bag I put my oil funnel into! More grease ended up on me, than in the cable. Nice smooth action there. Any harm putting a bit of silicone spray on the throttle slide? Metal surfaces moving on metal surfaces with no lube make me a bit cringey!

Took the carb off today - gave it a bit of a clean before disassembling. The starter cap (that the starter plunger comes through) however, as soon as I touched it, has almost disintegrated. I'm trying to figure out if this has a sealing role, or just to prevent dirt ingress. Small little bits of brown stringy substance around the bowl gasket, but also some present inside the diaphragm and the small orifice in the cover which I pushed out with a nylon brush bristle. Having looked up the price for the o ring inside the diaphragm cover, i'm hoping that they're ok! (£9!) The starter cap isn't sold separately, but the whole starter set is only £3.40 anyway. Edit: Have since looked again to measure the o-rings, wondering if I could source them elsewhere. The emulsion tube o-ring (that the main jet sits on top of) fell apart the moment I even attempted to move it. Have found a seemingly very assorted o-ring set on Amazon which i've bought, along with ordering the appropriate pilot/mix screw sets too as their o-rings are squashed and hard, and a starter set (for the cap, although the shaft of the starter has black carbon type build up, so will replace it all).

Feeler gauges on the way to measure the valve gaps - spraying aerosol around didn't affect the bike at all (nor did pinching the hoses to the AIS valve). What did affect the bike is when I removed the air filter the RPM increased slightly and was a little more erratic - air filter back on and it calmed down again. Spraying a tiny amount of brake clean into the air box caused the engine to stumble * a lot * but cleared after opening the throttle. Idling when warmed up for 10 mins, the bike will fluctuate 1400-1500 with no discernible pattern. After riding around (1 1/2 hours earlier), it was idling back at 1.9k again when I got back, but no hanging idles at junctions. Wondering if I should just remove the carb and clean it thoroughly too. New throttle cable is here that can be fitted too.

Hey guys... it's me again! So my bikes gears are fixed - smooth as anything when changing - lovely. Now i'm getting to ride around a bit (aside from the abysmal headlight... that's another story!), i've noticed another little quirk. After riding around for an hour or so, I notice that the idle is closer to 2k than 1.5k. Occasionally when coming to a stop at junctions, with the clutch in, it will stay idling at 2.5-3k+. Opening the throttle a bit, then releasing, sometimes makes it idle down. The throttle (on the bars) is fully shut and even forcing it closed at the bar end does not let it idle down. I originally set the idle of my bike by letting it warm up for about 10-15 minutes, the mix screw is 1 1/2 turns out, and then idle screw adjusted to 1500rpm. The throttle cable does have a small bend + damage to the outer sheath (unsure why, it has been getting pinched between the stop on the bars and the RH stop on the frame) - and so is going to be replaced - but doesn't seem like the cable is sticking at all - the throttle is free to move. Other things i've read were saying that perhaps a lean condition may be causing it (there is an air injection system fitted to the YBR, which AIUI injects air into the exhaust side to burn unburnt fuel, but relies on vacuum - if a vacuum leak then would cause lean running. Any other ideas, aside from me taking the carb off and cleaning everything (which I expect it needs, as no service invoices to say this has ever been done!)? Have considered spraying around some of the pipes with an aerosol of some description to see if anything is leaking - I can't hear any hissing. (Also, I believe normal, when starting the bike with choke on it'll start, sit at 1.5k rpms for ~5-10 sec, then rev up to 3k. Slowly as it warms up it'll increase until I shut the choke off, where it'll sit at 1.5k for a bit where opening the throttle anything other than *really gently* will rev it to 2k then die, but if you open gently it'll rev past 2k and be good. Give it a few more minutes warming up and then this characteristic goes away too.)

As a bit of an update - it appears to be fixed. Haven't managed to get much riding in (and back to work tomorrow), so hopefully from Tuesday next week i'll get a long run in. Removed the pin and re-inserted it with a good 15mmx10mm piece of Alu can to shim the bottom. Whacked that in with a rubber mallet and it slid home quite nicely. New shift shaft also has much less play on the end than the old one. Re-assembling the clutch, "why is this bolt just continuing to spin and not tighten up?" - aah balls it's broke... with a small 1/4" ratchet. After much swearing I managed to drill through from the other side which span the broken bolt out through the top just enough to grab with pliers. I found an equivalent bolt in the stash and used the existing washer. I adjusted the clutch as per the service manual (set so that the clutch lever on the engine has its mark on the arrow), however this means that I can *only just* get the clutch cable re-attached at the lever end (then attaching to the engine casing). I can set the required amount of free play at the lever though - just a bit tight to get on. Did wonder if i'd slightly maladjusted the initial clutch adjustment but it doesn't seem to be slipping at all. Result: Gear change buttery smooth, no slipping back into neutral from 2nd, and no stuck/floppy lever at any point. Gears much less "clunky" now than before (most noticeable when going to 1st from neutral at a stop) so the clutch adjustment may also have had something to do with it!

I have tried this - it helped the 1st -> 2nd issue (but I can live with it if this doesn't fix that issue), but not the downshift issue. This has also been mentioned - as have the low temp aluminium "brazing" rods (essentially brazing the pin when it's in situ), or at a stretch tig welding the pin in.

Thinking back - newish bar ends (the universal type), and actually new bars too at some point - they are not OEM as they don't have the dimple for the switch assemblies to lock into. Having a little bit of entertainment trying to fix it in all honesty - I like fiddling with mechanical stuff. It's a 14 year old bike so has the standard few broken trim fixings on the removable covers, and some cracks to the rear fender. I do feel it was made to look "pretty" by some of the previous owners, and parts somewhat thrown at it (frame fully painted, new clutch, new chain and sprockets, etc). All a learning curve, and I certainly know what to look for in my next bike! A complete transmission rebuild isn't off the cards if my repair works (then fails) - at least I may be able to fix it the right way instead of bodging...

So, an update on the whole situation. My dad rode my bike around (used to ride 30+ years ago) and had the same issue. Speaking to a friend he said to take the clutch cover off and check the internals. My theory is the bike has been dropped onto the gear lever and it's forced it down, forced the pin (right hole) through the bottom of its hole, and also broken the post for the spring - it's then been repaired with weld, but does not hold the pin tight enough. (You can see the scuffs on the bottom of the casing by my oily rag). As you move the gear lever, the pin moves - just enough - that the gear selector does not return to it's middle position (and as a result, does not then latch onto the gear cammed wheel thing). This may be slightly more exaggerated than when the clutch cover is on, as there is a boss on the clutch cover - however the pin doesn't actually touch the boss even without a gasket in place (estimated about 1-2mm between them as stuck a dab of locktite on the end of the pin and put the clutch cover on - didn't mark the cover). The selector lever also appears slightly bent, with lots of play in all directions in the moving end, and also the little post to the left of the moving end (which looks to force the cammed wheel into the correct position on its return). Changing gear (turning the cammed wheel by hand) is smooth, no excessive force required at all, and if it does get "stuck" between gears, spinning the output shaft slightly lets the gears drop in (which I believe is normal). Only way to truely fix this is to replace the engine casing - but i've also found that i've successfully managed to shim the pin with a piece of aluminium can on the bottom. Gears then work as they should (whilst disassembled). Hopefully if that shim does ever come loose, it's soft enough that it'll just get a bit mangled by anything it comes into contact with, or just collect below the mesh. Just waiting for a new shift shaft to appear, and will reassemble. Hopefully that fixes at least the 1st/neutral issue! Also have a new shift shaft main spring (just in case mine isn't strong enough), along with some replacement oil seals and some fresh 10w-40 Shell Advance 4T AX7. Also found *lots* of gasket sealer bunging up various little oil galleries? under the clutch cover and floating around inside, so have meticulously cleaned all that up, and cleaned up the cover mating surfaces as best I can. Edit: And i forgot - even after all the warnings about the clutch ball bearing - I still managed to lose the bloody thing! Luckily only 25p to replace

You're right - I know i'm only early in my riding career! Adjusted the clutch cable again today, replaced the perch as the mirror thread was damaged and the adjuster was a bit wobbly (pretty sure the bike has been dropped onto its left side previously). Tightened the mid-cable adjuster so there wasn't so much adjustment needed at the handlebar end - at the lever I wound the adjuster out until the lever had no free play, then wound it in 1/2 a turn which left about 10mm free play. Ride out to the car park where i've been practicing - perfect. Gears selected fine all the way there. Being a bit more positive on the lever now. The clutch bite point has now changed (obviously), and is taking some getting used to. Going all the way through the box, slowing and going 2nd to 1st, working fine. 15 minutes later after arriving - 2nd -> 1st and 1st -> 2nd is doing it again... 12-15 mile ride planned for tomorrow, so will see how it goes!

Just to add info from todays ride: Keeping upwards pressure on the lever whilst letting the clutch out makes changing 1st - 2nd work 100% of the time. 2nd-5th works 99% of the time (more my technique maybe letting me down here) without holding the shifter up/down. 2nd - 1st is much more difficult - it feels like you're at the bottom of the box, even keeping slight pressure on the lever before bringing in the clutch doesn't help it. Once at a standstill, it'll sometimes go to 1st, or then go to neutral / a false neutral - a slight sharp tap on the lever then will make it go into 1st - but it will most of the time NOT do this whilst moving, and you will have to stop fully / rock the bike.

So far i've ridden around my estate, and up to a car park to practice - on the way is when I really noticed it playing up and also in the car park - so ended up riding around in 2nd and just using the clutch (great for practicing clutch control!) most of the time, including pulling away in 2nd, and figure of eights in 2nd too. I just don't want to use 2nd for everything and get lazy on the gear changes for when I go to a bigger bike (if). Points taken on board - i'll still check everything tomorrow and the clutch cable adjustment - but plan for another ride tomorrow eve when it's quietened down.

Hello peeps! Background: Car driver for 11 years, have rode a motorcycle on 4 separate occasions now (CBT, lesson, two rides of my own bike). My 2006 Yamaha YBR125 is being a bit of a pain in the rear when changing gear (see what I did there?) - to go from first to second it will sometimes get stuck in neutral. Double declutching (letting the clutch out, and then pulling back in) sometimes helps, other times I have to come to a stop, and fiddle with the lever until it finally decides to go into a gear. This is particularly annoying when pulling out of a junction, and going up a hill - getting half way up and having to pull over because it's just not happening (although it let me practice a hill start :P) It will also go from first, into second - pull whilst maintaining the throttle, but then when the throttle is released it'll slip back into neutral. I have *double checked* i'm not resting my foot on the lever at this point (I originally thought this, so lowered the shift lever a bit, which has done nothing except make it difficult to get my bleeding foot under it... The other gears seem ok - and when on the center stand it will shift through the box the majority of the time ok (releasing the clutch every time - you hear a little "clunk" as the clutch engages). My plan for tomorrow is as follows: drain and replace engine oil (I don't know 100% what oil is in it - it was freshly replaced by the seller a month ago) with 10W40 motorcycle specific oil double check chain slack (although I checked this not long ago and it was between 20-30mm) double check clutch cable free play - it does fully disengage when the lever is fully in check the shift lever is in the right position Is there anything else I should check for/do? I am aware i'm a new rider and so some of this may be technique - hence why I found a straight and double checked that it was dropping back to second of it's own accord. Once it is in second, it will stay there (and shift back to first/neutral fine and generally behave itself).