hadley8899

I had heard they use the same motors, Id also heard a rumor about changing the WR's cam timing 1 tooth to give it more power? Could just be a crazy rumour ? To be honest i cant really find many for sale (WR wise) But i seem to come across alot of DRz400's So i may be heading away from yamaha on this one. I wont be buying one till around march next year so ive got plenty of hunting around to do in the mean time. I do really like the WR's. and having rode a yz250f im guessing the WR400 would be very similar just more power and abit more weight. Ive just had a seach for a TT600re and i couldnt even find one lol,

Wow i really like the MATT effect that bike has it goes really well, Nice work mate keep it up

In all honesty i didn't really realize they were that high maintenance, To be honest i only ever ride once in a while maybe once or twice a week. So i suppose it wouldn't be to bad for me. To be honest i wanted to go over to a big single four stroke for the low end torque and reliability but it seems as if thats not what ill get. I would love a 250 2 stroke on the road just for that pure thrill of the powerband. Coming into corners knocking it down 3 gears then powerbanding out with the revs through the roof with the lovely smell following you around. I havent really looked at whats on the market 2 stroke wise for the road over 125. Ive only really looked at the Suzuki DRz400sm, Yamaha WR, The CCM supermoto(cant remember the name) and the big KTM690 Supermoto Any other suggestions would be well looked at Ive only ever rid 4 strokes (Above 125) on the track and its only ever been an RM250f and a KTM450 2012 and i must admit i did like the idea of having alot of power even when your not in the right gear. But i must admit the sound and the feel of the weight didnt do much to my liking Am i right in thinking the WR shares the same engine as the YZ ?

Well in fairness after the rebuild (rebore,piston, bearings and seals) the bike ran exactly the same . Turns out after all of the things i had done to the bike the air box snorkel had been removed (I didn't even know there was meant to be one there) I put that on and it was a totally different bike. Well i had a spluttering issue straight after i put it on (and made a post) but again it was my fault, Id kinked the snorkal as id put it on. The spark plug is alot browner now and the throttle response is alot better no bwaaaaaa arp Who would of thought that little bit of rubber would cause all of these issues. Mind you the worn top end probably didn't help it either

Thankyou All working well now, Just the weather being the let down Looking forward to next year when i do my test and get me a WR400

No to be honest it didnt look as if it would of taken much to break it. It only goes into the alloy cast on the yoke. Yeah ive had many of bikes stolen from me in the past In one night the took my old 1999 dtr125, My 2003 yz125, my dads XT350 and a downhill bicycle. This was years ago mind but within the last month ive had my motorcycle trailer stolen which is very very annoying as they did such a clean job on the break in on the garage, Even closed the door after them All the best

Yeah it should be here tomorrow, So ill wack it on and go for a blast And thank god for that i thought my thermostat was knackered lol I prefer the old style clocks, The new ones dont come with a temp gauge or rev counter. So i used the old yokes and old style clocks. The sh*t thing is though i dont have a steering lock now

oh and also my temp gauge never goes above this while riding It will go up more when idling or in traffic but will always return to there, It that a normal temp ? All the best

Ok so ive gone through alot of hell getting this to run right First of all it died on me while i was out and about, As soon as i got to the high rpm it just spluttered and popped to a stop. It turns out it was running lean ? Hadnt caused any engine damage but I did a full rebuild on the motor (Had 19000 miles on clock). I had the barrel over sized and new piston, 2 new main bearings 2 seals. The reason i did this because i suspected the crank seal was gone so i just went all out and did the lot. The left hand crank seal was showing no signs of a exterior leak but it was badly perished wohoo the bike ran again but it wouldnt idle unless the idle screw was fully in ? but either way it ran fine riding along But it started to die at lights unless you gently revved it, It was always the same when you blipped the throttle to hard it would bwaaaaaarpppp and die or if you were lucky rev up Right so its still lean. Bear in mind i have checked all of the inlet hoses Main jet is a 240 I cant remember what the idle jet is but i was standard Right so i found out that the air snorkel at the top of the airbox had been taken off. So i got one and put it on and it was amazing how much different it made it. I could grab the throttle from idle to 100% throttle and it would rev So i took it for a test ride and it rode very nice up until i got to about 8000rpm and it felt and sounded like i hit a limiter So now its too rich ?? What i wanted to ask was my exhaust gasket (on order) is leaking very badly would this cause a rich condition ? Ive ordered a brand new air filter although ive have cleaned it i just wanted to eliminate that But does anyone else have any suggestions ? All the best

Just out of interest cynic what did they actually change from the old engines to new engines ? Bore X Stroke is the same isnt it ? All the best

If your still having the problem i have a wiring loom unbroken for sale on ebay at the moment But to be honest that shouldn't be to hard to sort out I have a haynes manual if you would like a wiring diagram i could scan it All the best

Just for reference i have a wiring loom and CDI on ebay which would fit your bike All the best

If you are still interested im pretty sure youve got the standard expansion chamber as i dont think the big one or dep pipe come with a heat shield To restricted it im pretty sure you have to cut the pipe further down im not sure where as ive never done it or itll be by the manifold(a big washer) As for other restrictions you can pin the power valve open if havent got the server and cables (Problem is you lose alot of bottom end power) Hmmm i have read about earthing a wire behind the clocks but ive never done that either All the best

Just for reference, I used DTR fork stanchions in my DTX forks. They are exactly the same (The DTX fork stanchions were very poorly chromed and had rusted) There are a few changes inside the fork however Have a look at my build project if you are interested in seeing them in pieces Its in the projects section (DTR,DTRE,DTX merge) All the best

Got alot of work in front of you Just so you know i have a fair few DT parts which i accumulated doing my dt project so if you need anything give me a quick shout All the best

Well its all back up and running and on the road All seems ok so far has only had a couple of very small stutters since Ive left the 280 main jet in the carb (240 standard) which is a massive increase and it still doesnt seem to be running rich lol This is the plug after a half hour spin Also the temp gauge never goes above this Unless its been idling for a long time but after riding it will come back down to that... Normal ? And then just a few photos

Yes ill give it a check, New bearings come today so ill be putting them in tomorrow. Just waiting to get crank back (One of the mains got stuck on its boss) I see youve had/ Got a wr250f. What do you think of them ? would you recommend to a friend ? Ive been looking at WR400 which is what i want for when i pass my test maybe next year

Yes that would make alot of sense, I have gone over the wiring a couple of times now with my multimeter and havent found any broken wires or bad connections, Yet Also i have noticed the bottom end of this engine gets very very warm after a ride especially stator side. Do the bottom of these engines usually get hot ? as in maybe after a 7 - 10 mile journey ? The cover on this one being the new style is metal so i would assume it would get hotter than my old one via heat transfer but i wouldnt expect it to get that warm ? I do have a funny inclin towards that pickup as i assume it would of got hot. What would you recommend to test it ? Like what procedure ? Just test wire continuity at different temps ? also you cant test CDIS can you ? Cheers Ryan (Hopefully back on the road soon)

Very nice

Ill upload some more photos shortly Hit massive problems which i cant work out Its all taxed MOTed and insured now and was on road for a short while That is the engine currently lol I was riding along happy as larry then all of a sudden i started losing power. Felt like a cold 2 stroke as you clear them out (Engine was fully warmed up) but then spluttered to a stop. Whipped plug out on road side (all sound) popped it back in after a clean and it would start for about 30 seconds if you played with throttle and then it would backfire to a stop. I thought right commpression is down so i had the barrel inspected by a shop who confirmed my doubts. Whipped in a new piston and plug(ring end gap was about 0.7mm Massive). and it starts straight up and sounds alot better. So i warm it up and take it for a lap and half way down the road cough splutter backfire. Right so it wasnt top end ? Whipped the plug out and it was white. Well very light brown like dirty ash (Running lean ?) Whipped the carb off soaked it in carb cleaner overnight blew it all out with the compressor next day. Whipped it in a nothing changed. Still white plug Checked all the inlet (sound) changed reads (sound) Changed carb inlet boot and checked it all over (Sound) no air leaks Still the same Right id say the crankcase seal so i thought. Go all out and put new mains and seals in and thats where i am now awaiting seals Although the left hand seal (Flywheel side) looked perished it was showing no signs of leaking (Do they ?) If its all the same after its back together i am stuck. I really am Would timing cause the plug to go white and show signs of being lean ?(Bad cdi, Lead, Cap, Coil?) In neutrel if you pulled the throttle to hard it would bog (To much air) but you could play with it gently up to high revs Oh and also i went silly and put a 280 (from 240) in the carb so a massive gap and was the same If anyone else has ideas they are very welcome Also i would love it if you could measure the mounting ignition barrel bracket for me It would look alot better than it does now and i could use the proper top yoke which i prefer Sorry for the rant lol

Hello, Ive sorted it now. i had the new style rectifier so i went balls out and just wired that up properly then put the main light supply wire(yellow/red) straight to an ignition live. I suppose the only thing ive actually altered from the new style loom is the fact i dont have a headlight relay which they seem to have. So far so good none of my bulbs have popped as of yet. So its MOT time next week Just to answer your questions i was getting around 14v at battery revved up and i was getting about 4v DC at bulbs :S very confusing. It very well could have been a blown rectifier or the fact that the earth had a live and there was no way for the bulbs to earth and they had a positive either side. Either way after the hours of working it all out, I couldnt understand the whole live to black thing i had going(Nothing at all worked without it) So i just went balls out. Suppose its a good thing because i now have lights while engines off lol I hope this isnt going to cause any problems for any reason Cheers Ryan

Here is a very crude drawing of the 2 original looms to the best of my knowledge. Im just extremly confused as to why there is a live wire connected to the black ? Bare in mind the top one (DT125RE) all of the lights are powered from the battery) And in the DTR125 loom they are powered from the yellow and red Cheers

Hello im having a little trouble with my rectifier, Most likely my bodged up wiring lol Basically im here to ask on the Dtr125 loom you have 3 power wires coming from stator (Am i wrong ?) Yellow/Red, Black and White Yellow/Red for the lights after rectification White for i assume just general power (like battery charing) and this is the one im confused about the Black. Why is the black connected to a live ? Isnt in an earth ? Im having problems with my lights. The bulbs keep going pop Normally i wouldnt ask about the black but what ive done is put the DT125re engine to a DTr125 loom and have done as follows (all 3 power cables on DT125re engine are white(Am i wrong ?)) White -- Yellow/red White -- Black ??????????????? White -- White All the other cables are fine and bike runs sweet as a nut so not a worry there its just the power side of things Also does the DTr125 rectifer need to be earth to the frame ? as in the body of it bolted to earth ? or is the strangely black live wire earthing it ? Also please note that if i disconnect the black from the white i get no power to lights at all Any insight to what i have done stupidly wrong is much appreciated Cheers Ryan

Ok so ive been away for a while collecting parts and what have you, Turns out the seat i bought was from a DT50sm lol Since the last time i posted ive bought all new plastics direct from Yamaha(150ish) which was 2 back panels 2 front panels and Headlight cowel. I already had the supermoto mudguard and back piece After getting the panels i then decided it looked abit bland so i Bought some graphics from TMX Graphics After this i had Purchased a new style head stock so i could easily mount the new headlight bracket/Cowel. I then hit a big problem as the previous owner had ground off the mount from the frame which the original ignition would of gone (DOH) so i went back to using the original. Unfortunately it means i lose the novelty of having a steering lock I also had the from with the 2 front subframes as they were the old style the front two radiator scoops didn't line up with the mounts so i had to make some small brackets another setback This was the look of the bike at this stage I then hit another snag the triangle bracket for the headlight cowl had no where to fit on the bottom yoke. Luckily it looks as if Yamaha had this bracket in mind in the older yokes and just didn't drill and tap the holes. So i went away with the drill and got the bracket to fit After putting what i could do for now (Still waiting on delivery of the actual headlight) this is how it looked I then discovered a very ugly patch in which i am going to ask people for advice on.... There is a big gap now by the front of the tank where the old igniton was ment to be ..... My question is now what do i put there to make it look good again ? Im trying to see it as an opportunity to put something good there but i don't know what ? I was thinking down the lines of 12v cigarette lighter port ? Water temp gauge ?(Already on clocks) Im after suggestions ? Also looking at the picture above notice i have made the bars abit higher but coupling together 2 sets of bar clamps.... Is this a good idea or is it abit flimsy ? Doesn't feel it ? Cheers in advance for any advice Ryan

Ive hit a bit of a snag. Ive just received a seat from ebay which was stated to be the right seat for a 2004 and ive received it and its got a hole in the back of it ? I did abit of searching around and i cant seem to find another DT with a hole in the back ? A little help is needed to say whether i need to send it back to him or not ? Sorry i havent replied for a while ive been searching for my plastics and other various bits I am going to get the plastics from yamaha themselves as they have got very good prices which i was surprised at. I will post prices when ive got them as i cant remember off the top of my head what they were I know the seats very beat up but i got it very cheap so it will look new with a new seat cover Any advice would be much appreciated Cheers