dt502001

Again welcome to the club you lucky sob

Hi congrats on your lucky find

Neat be looking foward to see the finished bike

Yep dosen't make any sence to me why people won't stop I always stop and help always ,my friend died 18 yrs ago from internal bleeding cause no one would stop and help him. Boat laws here are inforceable that if you don't stop for someone in distress your going to jail,shold be the same for all forms of motoring

If you like the sound why not put a pair or slip-on mufflers as long as the front pipes are good and it sounds as if they are. Kerker ,yoshamira, supertrap ect make em not realy cheap but cheapre thany stock sound great and a tiny bit of preformance gain

Thanks for clearing the pvr issue up, as I don't know what I/we want or even what bike we are going to build it on having you build 1 would be quite difficult. As I said this will be a project for my son to be heavly involved in and we have lots of time to complet it he's 12 and this will be his 1st road bike.I hadn't planed on using carbon just normal glass. Clay body followed by making a reverse plaster mold then lay it out But if the first 1 turns out good may consider doing a carbon 1 Nice to see your going to help out the Amateur's they get very little to no support and racing as anyone who has done it knows it is very costly.My son has desided that he didn't want to race anymore hence the build project. Have a blast a Loretta's alway's great to see the up and comming battleing it out for the support they will get if they do well. I checked out rolands bikes some nice stuff ! Can't wait to see Lillian when she's done. Good luck with your venture into MX lots of people making plastic parts but some carbon rad shrouds,number plates would look so cool. Phil K

Not sure why but it went out just after a re build OK couldn't leave you hanging Charging coil #1 brown + charging coil # 1 green - 100 ohm scale 640 to 960 ohms at 20 degres C temp Coil # 2 pink + coil #2 green - again 20c 100 ohms 464-696 Tested at the plug comming out of the mag Pick up coil red + White - 100 ohms 248-372 ohms at 20 c Hope this help check in tmorrow Ops try heating it up mine tested ok untill it got just over 20 c so I don't realy trust the book

Well that is to good Any chance you have a actual spark tester? The kind with a resistor built in. Im thinking the coil is colasping on it's self to early. Getting a kick back when try to start? or a back fire? Had a real problem with mine when the stator/magnito when out and droped the charge early it would run eventualy.It didn't back fire but I had to kick the hell out of it to the point I'd be to tired to ride it. Might want to check the resitance of the charging coil I will look it up tommorow and get back to you Night time here eh.

Also I was thinking of doing a clay or plaster mold to keep cost down then laying out the fiber on top any suggestions? As I was thinking of doing a complete body tank to tail, hidding the gas tank under the body 100% custom shape.

Thanks for the tip now just to find it in Canada.Meguires makes the best wax and i love polishing my bike with it smells like bubble gum. What is PVA? Might have to go that route. Hey I think in the early 70's yams came in a similar orange kinda burnt on the rd350's with black and white stripes on the tank around the yamaha plate HAHAHA this is a edit just looked at sachas link that waht i was talking about

Laughing my ass off Dave nice to meet you but how about the spark issue? Phil is the name and I have a 01 wr250f which is basicaly the same bike. Give up some details. I have a manual wink wink might be able to help Try and search around the rest of the site to get familar with it

Hey Adam not so sure about your side of the big pond but, over here a trip to the local shops is well worth the trip for new riders they normaly post new rides,events ect.. if not just ask the people working thier they will know.

Hi welcome though I don't think anyone here would buy 1 of thoes POS. Enjoy your Olympics tryin to get around the Olympics On a funny note the local Rock radio station Fm 96 for some reason is not alowed to say the word Olympics Been listing all day and sounds funny everytime they say "the running jumping thing " But doing a tribute to english bands. LOL the station is in LONDON ONTARIO CANADA

wow she was luck to live but,,, stupid she could have avoided the whole thing she was looking right at the truck just befor entering the intersection. Last time I checked Red light means stop.

Hi Adam nice to see some people actualy take the time to post a Hello without having to be told to do so. 1 thing you don't get emails when you post something you have to come back and look . But you will get lots of help from the nice people here

.No kidding Air head, but it also will require a few tools 8mm 10mm socket, and a rachet haha. I would just pop it open and have a look first as I said in my 1 st post it realy isnt that hard. And if you can't figure it out then put it back together with the old gasket and take it in. Nothing to loose. If it's the thrust washer on the end of the push rod that runs from the right to left as soon as you have the pressure plate off your there, it's the little flat bearing that fits behinde the pressure plate on the end of the push rod. It will just pull out of the center of the inner hub becarful to not drop the ballbearing that fits right behind it ,normaly they stay in but pul it out slowly with your hand under to catch it if it come out with the push plate( this is what will move if you slowly pull in the clutch lever and what actualy pushes the pressure plate to dis engage the clutch) pop the cir clip off and the washer and inspect it. Check the center and outer hub for play should be none, Pull out a friction plate and look at it I don't have the min spec for your bike but most are 2.7mm thick minum,, 2.9-3.1mm normal. But you wern't having any problems with slipping right? To adjust the free play after you put in a new bearing remove your cable and re positon you arm back to where it was.... loosen the nut and turn the adjusting screw (this is the screw in the center of thepressure plate) in till it bottoms back it out 1/8 of a turn and tighten the lock nut. put your cable back on and make sure everything works before you put the eng. cover back on. Realy this isnt that hard and you will have to wait till next week to get you bike in the shop so why not have a go at it, like I said if you cant figure it out just put it back together. I will check in tommorow to help if need be

Hi welcome the the YOC you have to be a paying member to post in the wanted and for sale section,but you can use the rest of the site

I would suggest pulling the plugs out and havin a look at them if they are coated in burnt oil then your looking at a rebuild. Puting in a new set may get you sometime,if it fixes the bog then you know.If not then try pulling the air filter out may be more pluged than you think. Also have you tryed cleaning the carb? And doing a compression test? As far as I know we never got thoes 125 bikes here too small for us crazy Canucks, but I have read here that the ring's are hard to get and expensive.

It would be polite to introduce yourself in the new members section. Just sayin my bike won't run is of no use Some more details like spark or not,, compression or not ,,fuel, then we might be able to help.

Did you put the right cable on? If so Sorry your going inside you need to check /replace the clutch, to make it easy tip the bike on its side and lean it against a wall with the wheels chocked so it can't roll Put a zip tie on the front brake lever so the brake is on good. so all the oil runs to the other side this will save you havin to drain the oil.Pop out the 12 or so screws and pop off the cover undo the six bolts with springs under them and off come the pressure plate. Check your springs check the plate thickness note the direction of the steel plates they go in at different points on some modles so take them out 1 at a time and they have a sharp edge and a rounded edge on the outer edge of the steel sharp goes in..check the fingers on the basket, if badly noched up you can file them smooth but don't let the fileings fall in the motor.. if you find a broken plate you need to change the oil and filter bits will be in the oil. If all check out good the bearing at the cam end may have colapsed then you need to pull the other cover off and check the cam and bearing. Doing it this way I can replace a clutch in about 15 minutes LOL I type slow probably could have half the job done by now.

Hi welcome read your post in bar you should have posted it in workshop but I left you lots of info there.

Washout that mouse piss imedatly as MMR pointed out that stuff can make you realy sick 1St the rear brake switch are bad for sticking so follow the wires up and un plug them that should put the light out if not do the same with the front.No they don't get dimmer when running. the switches don't ground the light they power it Ie cut the power wire and place a switch in line. 2nd the front of the bike is grouned under the tank and the rear is grouned at the back so I'm guessing that it's the front ground, but also check to see you have power comming to the ing. switch. headlight turns signals dash coil and cdi are all feed from the ing switchSo get a paper clip and back probe the ing switch to make sure the contacts realy are sending power out all but the black wire should have power with the key on of course. If you get the light's up and still no spark check the kill switch first inside the housing the you have 2 bikes so start swaping parts cdi coil 1 at a time tillyou find the problem. Good luck young man you should get it sorted out

No problem always gald to help.. and as I say the only dumb question is the one you dont ask and end up with a nice broken pos. As far as paint nope i would powder coat it silver the stuff is hard as nails you probably would never need to do it again.

No idea about the paint code and short of immeron paint or powder coating I know of no paint that is gas prof.,, When you paint the tank make sure you tape off the top so the cap seals in the gas against metal not paint and then the gas can't get under the paint and start lifting it. Guess thats why you need a gas cap fix The gas cap thats 1 I have done(couldn't buy just the seal and the dealer wanted $125.00 for a new one) go to the wreckers and start pulling off gas caps untill you find 1 with the right seal if good Great if not then go get a new one from your local parts store 10-15 bucks. I tryed all kind of different rubber to make 1 and all got eaten up buy the gas. I belive the rubber is viton ,if you ever burn one don't touch it the chemicals will eat your skin Ive been told and they have to cut that part of skin off to stop it. Ps you should post this in workshop or projects might get more responce cheers out Phil K

Just re read your post that copy head and barrel is probably a performance set up lots of differed companys were making that stuff back in the late 70 and early 80 as the orignal weren't that good for racing ,you might want to have a look into who made it DG is the only name that come to mind right now ,some realy good stuff different port hights/sizes/ shape,, different compression ratio with better flowing heads. You might be sitting on a rare gem and if thats the case your carb would have been modified to work with that set up ,,right down to over drilling some of the passage ways.