Dean_DT

FIXED!!!!!!!!!!! Cable was snagging in junction box causing too much 2T and fuel at idel/low revs. Free'd and lubed it up temporarily until i get my new one tuesday, chucked a new plug in, and she's back! Also swapped in a BR8ES plug instead of the BR9ES, and i swear it makes all the difference! bike runs ok with the 9, but is so much more crisp with the 8!

ok so i was out off road, in very wet conditions, on the DT125R a couple weekends ago when it got a wee bit spluttery. I also noticed at the time that the bike had gotten far more smokey than it had been and smelled heavily of fuel/2T. There was also what looked like frothy oily water coming from the crankcase breather. After a couple of drier rides, the bike was running fine again, although still smelled strongly, and was still smoking strongly. The bike was taken home and left for a couple of days, when i went to start it it fired first kick, and settled to idle nicely, although was still smoky. I ran it up the road and seemed a bit hesitant at anything other than full throttle. Figured i had water in there, so pulled the plug and cranked her over a few times, cleaned plug up, refitted and she was better, but still not quite right. i left it for a few days and when i tried to start it next it started first kick, then died immediately. i managed to get it to fire on next kick and held the revs on, then tried riding it... massive backfires, boggy as hell and generally didnt want to play ball! This time it STANK of fuel and 2T. pulled the plug and it was black and oily. Cleaned plug up, got it started, kept revs on and rode it for 5mins, and it almost wanted to idle, so i wound the idle air screw out a bit and she idled at 2.5k rpm, anything less and it was trying to cut out. Fast forward a few days, and the bike wouldnt even start. wouldnt kick or bump. Did do a singular massive backfire though, which im sure the neighbours appreciated at 10:30pm! I have removed the Carb, and cleaned everything out, there was a fair bit of crap in the float bowl, and also a nice blob of gritty mud in one of the jets ( one with 4 holes in it??) reassembled and still wont start. Also cleaned out all breathers, inlet, air box etc. Now the only things i have changed on the bike are: Throttle cable (top half) was repaired using a universal repair cable. New plug New air filter. Brake pads and Tyres etc - non engine stuff Now i am thinking that as i have too much fuel AND 2T, that the most likely culprit is the throttle cable itself, as this controls the amount of both fuel and 2T being pumped into the engine. I have a new one ordered, but wont be here until tuesday, so does anyone have any other suggestions in the meantime? From what i have found when changing pads etc, it would appear that the previous owners to the bike never did any maintenance, instead just choosing to bodge things up when it broke! Any advice/help welcomed as i dont really have much of a clue when it comes to bike engines!

Thats reassuring mate thanks, unfortunately, so far the only company who i have found who operate along the same kind of lines are my current van insurer ( and the company that gave me the £345 quote). What always surprises me is that the so called "specialist" convicted driver/rider companies almost always give me either a flat no, or a ridiculous quote! I mean come on, im not a rapist or a murderer, i've never harmed anyone in/on a vehicle etc, and yet im treated like im scum! I actually had one guy on the phone tell me that the reason insurance is loaded/refused due to a conviction is because once you've been to prison once, there is a high likelyhood you will go back, and then the insurance company wont be getting their money off me! Im pretty sure that was his own dimwitted view, and not actually that of the company, but talk about tarring people with the same brush!

CBT was today, im not a retard, so i didnt manage to fail it! Going to book my theory for late sep/early oct, mod 1 nov, mod 2 december. Then in january i can steal someone's pride and joy off them for pennies as they will be skint after christmas!

If im not mistaken your limited to a 14bhp 125 on a CBT. as far as i know you cannot ride anything bigger than a 125 regardless of power

As per title really, are the heads exactly the same or is it a power mod or what? Only noticed it today! YZ RATHER!!!!!!!!!!!

Yeah iv already looked at it from all angles in that way. I have to declare it for 10years from date of conviction as i got an 18month custodial sentence Gonna kee trying different places, but to be honest i dont see anywhere being able to beat the £359. i also wonder if taking my full licence sooner rather than later would help to lower it significantly? i mean im screwed anyway with the criminal record, and im going to do my DAS in next year anyways, so maybe doing it now would be beneficial? I dunno. will check with insurers tomorrow and see whats what

they do ask for driving only, but the ones that do that have a section of "assumptions" in the small print. and one of those is that you have never been convicted of any criminal offence. scamming bastards! i got caught out by that on an old car policy and they cancelled my insurance 6weeks later! It takes the piss tbh, im not a career criminal, just a dickhead who made a bad decision. i held my hands up, did my time, and came out and got on with my life, got married and raised a family. yet in this "equal rights" society we live in, because i am honest enough to declare my conviction, i get royally bum raped by Mr Inssurance for 10 years from conviction date!!!!

ok so did a few quotes for my 89 125 DTR. 25year old married man, 7 years car driving and prov bike licence with CBT. With my 6 points declared for an MS90, and a CU80 ( plus my TS10 which is now off my licence but scummy insurers say i must tell them for 5yrs) the quote was £124 TP only. now when i also gave information on my one criminal conviction, that went up to £700+ TPFT. Rang around a bit and managed to get the price down to £359, but its still more than i feel i should be paying to insure a DT125R Third party! Anyone recommend any insurers that specialise in drivers with criminal convictions?

Little update: Fitted my new bars and pad, looks much better but will all be changing colour again shortly as the bike will be going from white to black. This is due to me getting the bike out at four marks properly 2 weekends running, and last weekend was a touch wet, which coupled with well worn road tyres resulted in me having a couple of Offs! fair bit of plastics damage, small chunk out the tank, just the normal stuff really! So will be sorting all the panels out and painting them satin black,along with the bars. The frame will be painted gloss black as will swingarm. Then over the top ill be having some custom decals made up in matt white/ gloss red. Will be doing some photoshops so will post up what it should look like, and obviously some pics when its done!

Ok so ive been thinking up ways of improving the DT's performance off road, my main gripe is that the suspension is very obviously setup for road use, and is far too spongey and wallowey for my liking off road on jumps etc. Been talking to a mate who have owned a YZ and he said that the swingarm, rear shock and front forks should all bolt up to the DT... is this correct? And if so, will the DT wheels fit the YZ gear? Been told the speedo drive wont work so will need a digital speedo with magnetic drive, and that i will need longer cables making up, that side of things doesnt bother me, just wanting to make sure everything else will work? If not, any advice on other parts i could fit etc would be grand! I have been told that refilling the front shocks with 20w/50 engine oil makes them considerably better

Good point, but i assumed an 23yr old yamaha 2T would use a different shaft to a 4year old Honda 4 stroke?

Failing that ill just buy one and hope for the best!

Thats what i fear.... Does anyone know of any technical data on the shift shafts for both the DT and YZ? if i can compare splines and widths i may be able to get the longer one for the YZ and use it on the DT

One spline was nowhere near enough. its about 5 i think. sits right up alongside the engine casing. I wish i was bud, its nothing to do with that, believe me if i sit any higher up on the tank ill be steering with my testicles!!!! I can use my mates CRF250 just fine in its standard position, because his lever is about 1.5" longer than mine.

Hey guys, With my MX boots on i cant get my stoopid huge size 13 pasty in between the peg and shift lever properly. i have moved it round on the splines so it sits high enough for me to fit my foot under, but its way too high and the action is far from smooth as the lever is sitting way beyond where it is meant to be! Also having a lot of accidental changes as a result of this. I can change just fine with the lever in standard position if i am wearing trainers, but this really isnt a good idea when im off road eh! What im after is a Longer lever, so as it does not have to be so high, that way i should still be able to get my boot under it and change gear and even change in normal footwear. i have seen longer levers for the YZ125 but not the DT, does anyone know if they share the same shift shaft and number of splines? Or does anyone make a lever for the DT125R? Any help appreciated guys or im going to have to crack the welder out and do it myself, which id rather not do in case it snaps next time i come off the bike! Cheers

Well seeing as i've only just gotten into bikes in the last month, i know exactly why! Cheap commuter transport was why i bought one, but then i took it off road and now im hooked. already planning my next bike and trying to work a routine into place so i can have as much time on the dirt as possible! Waiting on my V5/MOT/Tax before i can use her on the road, but i cant wait! the buzz of riding a bike is way beyond anything i have experienced in a car, and thats whats got me hooked!

Ah ok then. well, guess id better chuck the two rears up for sale! cheers for confirming

Well, i read your first reply to the Idiot comment and thought ,hey this guys alright.... then i read your second reply, and to be honest, you just made yourself sound a right prick. no wonder people ruin your stuff if that's the tone and attitude you take with people.....

is that height and width or width and height? and is that in inches?or cm? can someone give me the basics as im really a confused noob to bike tyres

Standard sizes are 2.75-21 front, 4.10 - 18 rear. cant find a calculator that lets me work out widths, which is going to be the problem if any!

Got hold of some Dunlop GeoMax Enduro tyres, but need to know if they will fit! Front looks like it will be ok, rear im not too sure on, but think its probably possible running road pressures, off road im not so sure! Front: 90/90 - 21 Rear: 140/80 - 18 Anyone have any ideas?

Im off out to Four Marks in Alton to get some offroad experience in fixed 90% of the bikes current niggles, so now can actually ride the damn thing!

Picked up some new Red renthal bars off a mate, with black bar pad and renthal grips for £30 should look sweet

Fiddles about with powervalve some more today, and this time i got it right. I hadnt taken the exhaust off last time so didnt really know 100% where the valve was sat, but it is now in its factory position and its now far more responsive and i have a nice bit of oomph from the word go. Ok so its not going to be a top end screamer, but seeing as i havent got more than 1.5 hours time on a geared bike, thats fine by me! Really looking forward to Saturday now to get some time in on my own bike!