NEV

Hi and welcome to the forum Hollerbanger, congratulations, you are the proud owner of a 1980 Yamaha XS400SG engine

PM me your email dave, i'll send you my mapping of loom,in my opinion its how wiring diagrams oughta be, easier to bloody read, and aye, reckon you'll be ok with a 2003 loom, just, and if not wont be a million miles from earlier ones anyroad. Terminals and wires you need are in my project, that may help.

started on the polishing the new cover is a lot wider,does anyone know if this has any effect on the flywheel? No , but you'll need to move the grommet further up on the wires coming from the coils, carefull mind not to break/ chafe any wires, when you do it, as you'll never find the break, and intermittant stopping the bike middle of nowhere, when it earths, is a proper pig dog, and a decent second hand stator is 35 quidish too.

Oh boy, are you in for shitloads of fun with this, I have a feeling this is gonna turn out pretty good, owt I can help ya with gizza shout, I might learn stuff myself from it, keep it up, and ffs dunna rush it. Better check ya money tree mind, make sure its in full bloom.

Lol, OG, didn't you get enough of a fix of 2t smoke smell last weekend?

Ta Jack, just need to sort the brake hoses out next, then it'll be finished, did you manage to nip over to HEL? and see if they can supply the braided ones? oh aye, with stainless ends, and 4 stainless banjo bolts as well if they supply them. Nev

Cheers for that Dave, I'll dig out the piece I cut off, see whats on that, I've got some 6mm letter stamps, I can re-stamp onto the stubby.

It lives!!!!!!!, Finally got the replacement stator plate yesterday, why the chap decided to cut off all the terminals, I'll never know, it would've taken about 2 minutes to unplug it all, instead of cutting them off, anyhoo, after a good soldering session last night, I put it all back together again this morning, kicked her over and, well hear for yourself. Just taken a decibel reading, peaked at 100db, but averaging 63db, anyone know what the allowed db limit is ?

Tell ya what scoops, either a Yamaha tt600, or a Yamaha xt600, was made for those roads over there in Vietnam, mate, not bad on prices either if you get one a few years old, I'm also a gnats cock off, 6'5", and weigh 20 stone, and my xt600 can take my bulk, no problem, have a google for them, see what ya reckon.

I know of lads in here that have put a 175 barrel on a 125 bottom, don't know if you can do the reverse mind, maybe one of the lads to have done it may come along later, I also know that theres a couple of lads in here would take the 175 barrel off your hands too, if you can.

Hi Geo, the vin code I get for yours isn't a 125 but a 175 mx 1981 (4J4) Hope this helps, Nev

I can understand where scoops is coming from in his thread, I've found out first hand by doing my own rebuild project, of how if you don't look after your bike, how costly it can be, due to the previous owners incompetance in doing something as basic as greasing swing arm bearings, wheel bearings etc, has cost me a small fortune, doing the greasing maybe once a month or two, should be done when the bike has a damn good cleaning, and theres no better an ego massage, when somebody, usually another biker compliments you on how good a condition you've kept your bike. But I 100% agree that it should be ridden, and not just got out of storage, whenever theres a bike rally, or local big bike turnout, you can spot them a mile away. Yes it's a nice story about old Bruce and his bike, but scroll right down to the bottom of the page, and look at the same bikes, all pristine and nice, and I dare say most don't get ridden often either, but if you were like me and are in the position of having two daughters who will be hopefully wanting a helping hand with getting married one day, and I know which type of bike I'd rather have to reluctantly sell, Bruces old bike, or one of those beauties at the bottom of the page selling for thousands, but hey, that's the way I roll, the worst type in my opinion, are those who have the pristine bikes, and whenever anything needs doing, chucking a chequebook after it, to some garage, instead of getting a manual out, and getting their hands dirty, finding and sorting the problem out, standing back looking at the bike, and giving themselves a pat on the back for acomplishing something.

In my experience with pattern stuff, i've found there to be two types of pattern stuff, first type is usually a Tiawanese/ Chinese company getting hold of an original type of say a bearing, and copying it, banging out millions using sub standard metal, ball bearings, etc, the other type is usually a reputable company who are comissioned under a licence to make a certain amount, say 100,000 units, to a company, let's say Yamaha, once this commission has been suplied, the manufacturing company is still all geared up to make the (pattern) stuff, machinary, dies etc, so they are then able to carry on producing the original bearings, but are only allowed to call it pattern and not genuine. I found this out when I used to use a company called Partco, and the chap there explained all about the pattern stuff to me.

Cheers Phil, no parcel yet, hopefully here about dinner time, and aye, those headlights were nice but wouldn't allow the clocks on properly, but am thinking of doctoring them somehow, so that they sit underneath the main headlight, between the front mudguard, as come November time and it getting dark about 4 ish, the back roads around here, with their built up banking, and trees forming a roof, you need as much light as you can throw infront of yourself, so I'll try and wire them as auxillary lights, or full beam, not sure yet. If all goes well with the new stator, and she starts up like she did the other day,I'll try and bang a short vid up here, so you can hear that stubby, sounds really nice.

Andy, have you tried the main fuse that is situated next to the battery? just follow the positive wire (red) from the positive terminal, you should come to an inline fuse, check the wire inside the fuse isn't broken, if it is, you need to replace it with either a 5amp or 10 amp, usually, check your manual for proper specs. Also the wire you have in the picture, not sure what that is, if it was on the other side I'd say it was a front brake switch wire, but on that side I'm not sure, although it does look like it clips in and sits in that circular recess thats next to the clutch lever, no doubt somebody with the same bike will be in later and tell you what it's for.

Very nice and shiney bike, and like Leatherat says ACF50 is cracking stuff to use as protection on chrome/metal, you may find these two products useful too, Bilt Hamber Autowash, for washing down/ cleaning and Bilt Hamber Auto Balm polish, the auto wash has anti-corrosive properties in it.and the auto balm polish brings up paintwork just like new. I use these when detailing my car. http://www.elitecarcare.co.uk/index.php?manufacturers_id=33

Dont know about micro USB hard wired, but the iPHONE car charger that plugs into a cigarette lighter socket, has a normal USB female on it, maybe run a cable from that, USB to micro USB. hope this helps

Nice one Drewps, good to see you got the wiring all sorted, c'mon then lets have it on Youtube so we can all hear it

The owner of the site has developed a revolutionary search feature for this site, infact I think it's the only one, I've ever seen, no other forum has one as far as I know of, it's brilliant, just go to the forum main page look at the top left side of the page, you'll see the search box there, in that search box, just enter 'dt125r' & 'two stroke oil' now they will be your key words, left click on the little green box to the side of the text box, and loads and loads of info will come up regarding many PREVIOUS posts regarding which is the best fucking oil for a dt125r, or 2 stroke.

Anyone butt Hungary

Auto sparky came round today, asked him to check the loom, CDI, rectifier, coil, all 100% no problems which I pretty much thought it would be, then on to the wires coming out of the magneto, again he reckoned no problem there, so I thought I'd give it a crank over, and hey presto started up no problem, sweet as a nut, rinky dink dink, until he moves the wires coming up from the magneto, stopping it dead, so checked said wires and notice a kink in each wire, right at the base just after the rubber grommet, so I've had to take the stator out, to cut and rejoin all the wires properly, at the clamp area. Will bang it back on tomorrow, and hopefully that'll sort it, but if not, I will be looking for another stator, if anybody has one knocking about,that they want to sell?

I've searched for your frame number and drawn a blank Richie nothing in the 1961 - 89 parts list for 4AR and nothing in the 90-92 model parts list either I think another member in here Oldgitonabike has a different parts list to mine, maybe he can come up with something, sorry I couldn't be of any more help.

Also check behind the variator, fo see if the restrictor washer is there or not, and with most aftermarket performance exhausts, they come with a set of rollers to match the performance boost of the exhaust, sometime the exhausts come with a restrictor washer tacked/welded, in the inlet, that you have to take out. Adjustable racing clutch, with ugraded springs, plus primary and secondary gearing can also be upgraded too.

Nice DT Richie, but the swing arm, drum brakes front and rear, and the fact that it's air cooled is telling me it's an earlier bike than 1995, the vin/frame number can be searched in here to determine the proper year.

Hi, and welcome to the forum yamste,