KirriePete

1. An introduction in the cunningly disguised New Members Area would make your stay here a much more pleasant experience, trust me. 2. With very few exceptions, all motorcycles for the last 40-odd years have used the "one down, the rest up, neutral in between 1st and 2nd" pattern. The XS is not one of the exceptions. 3. Quickest check is to whip the clutch in, if the rear wheel turns like that then you're probably in gear, if not either the clutch is stuck, the rear brake is jammed on or the wheel bearings are seized (possibly the shaft drive has locked as well). 4. As I recall the XS was a 5 speeder. 5. Welcome to the club, now do be a good chap and give us a proper intro, thanks.

Got a Dremel? I would use the mini disc cutter to slice through the stuck race at a couple of places and it should just pop out. If you catch the hub with the cutter it won't be the end of the world, but try not to do more than scratch it, although a splash of Loctite bearing fit can cover any "Ooops" issues.

OK, here's what I'd do: Screw the top cable adjuster (at the lever) right in so there's no thread showing. Take up the slack in the cable by screwing the bottom adjuster out until there's only a few mm of free play at the lever end. This should give you a clutch with a bite point about half an inch (10mm or so) before the lever is fully out, everything from there back to the bar should be a free clutch. If it's still dragging slightly with the clutch all the way in it could be: Oil is a bit thick/cold - go for a run to get it warmed through. Clutch plates are sticking a bit where it's been sat for a while - go for a run to free them off. Clutch actuating mechanism is badly adjusted - if the cases haven't been opened this is unlikely. So, if it were mine I'd adjust the cable then take it for a damn good thrashing and see how it goes.

If the clutch is disengaging properly (no dragging in 1st with the clutch in) and it's fully engaged when the lever is out (no slipping when opening the throttle), then it's as well adjusted as it can be. Some bikes are just a bit of a pain to get neutral - my H*nda NTV will only slip into neutral if I tap the lever while still moving or blip the throttle to 3000rpm at a standstill, try it at tickover and all you'll get is a bruised toe from bashing the lever. You just need to figure out your particular bikes little ways and adapt to them - sometimes a different spec of oil can make things a bit better, but is it worth the extra money if you can learn to work around it? Your choice.

Have you tried these guys - Spark Plugs UK? Looking at the symbol code breakdown - Click here - the EH code means that the threaded portion of the plug is shorter, although the overall reach is the same - pics here: CR8EIX9: CR8EHIX9: As you can see the thread stops short of the washer, so they wouldn't be any good in the Fazer, you wouldn't get a seal. I've used these guys previously and they usually come up with the goods fairly quickly - I once had to wait a whole 3 days, but that was the longest!

Seems about right to me - you don't technically have a full bike licence until you've done your 2 years at 33bhp, so the A is provisional on the counterpart, the A(=<25kW) is full on the plastic. Once you get your 2 years out of the way you could send your licence off for amendment, but I wouldn't be bothered, you could just wait until you need to update your address or similar, or have to fork out for the 10 year photo tax that they screw us for nowadays....

Passed bike test in '80 - got A on the plastic with the right dates Passed car test in '82 - got B on the plastic with the right dates Also on the plastic are BE, B1, C1, C1E, D1, D1E, fklnp On the paper counterpart I just have provisional GH from my 17th birthday (loooooong time ago!) So, what's your question? How old are you? Have you passed your bike test? If so when and on what (125/DAS)?

Maybe I'm being too picky but .... Slalom - moving off he did his checks OK, but no lifesaver over the left shoulder before moving the bike left into the slalom. U-turn - checked over right shoulder but didn't look back forward before starting the turn. Hazard avoidance - looked to me like he was covering his clutch lever at least from the bend.

When was your licence issued? Oh, and how old are you?

125 entitlement should be automatic when you hit 17. What categories are currently shown on your licence, both the plastic part and the paper one (pop up a pic if you're not sure - just 'fuzz out' any personal details)? You can do CBT on a 50 or a 125 (if over 17), geared or auto doesn't make any difference unlike the full test which will only allow an auto licence if you do it on an auto bike. You just need to demonstrate to your instructor that you are in control of the machine at all times (smooth on throttle brakes and gears), you're keeping an eye out for any possible dangers (good observations, remember your lifesavers), you're aware of other road users (keep your distance, watch your position, use proper timely signals, remember to cancel) and you know the rules of the road (don't go barrelling down a one-way street the wrong way!). Be safe, be aware and you'll be fine.

I've used one of these for years, upgrades are cheap and readily available. Always got to where I'm going and I've never been sent down the wrong way into a river.

Why? Front wheel off, then it's just undoing 4 bolts and one circlip per side - even though it's only one side that's gone just now, still do both legs as you can guarantee the other one will go if you don't. Also as you'll be refilling with fresh oil you could end up with one leg stiffer than the other, not good if you want to ride straight ..... Almost as John (Blackhat) says: loosen off the fork cap, slacken off the pinch bolts holding the leg into the clamps and slide the fork out. Then I would undo the allen key at the bottom as the spring pressure will help to hold the captive part in place, then remove the cap. After that it's just as John says, circlip, pull apart, pry out old seal, press in new one and put it all back together. Here's one I did earlier (last year): Before During (just hope yours aren't this bad!) After I would also use OEM seals, every time I've used pattern ones in the past they've gone again in a matter of months, despite looking identical to the factory jobbies.... You're welcome.

Surely you've got a box in the shed full of random washers? Or is that just me? or Still got that bit of Italian tin can?

1. Shove a potato in the opening at the other end of the pipe. 2. Make up a strong solution of Caustic Soda (should be able to get it from B&Q and the like) - thick rubber gloves and eye protection are good, this is nasty stuff! 3. Pour the caustic into the pipe and leave it for a day or so. 4. Dispose of the resulting black liquid in an environmentally friendly manner The 200 years worth of carbon deposits that are gluing the baffle in place should now be much reduced, allowing the baffle to be removed a bit easier. If not, you'll have decoked the pipe reasonably well and may not need to replace the baffle anyway!

Here, have a video: Reading the comments sums up the general feeling about this latest bit of train wreck legislation, yes?

Your licence restricts you to 33bhp, the bike is restricted to 33bhp, that's all that matters. The bit of paper is worth exactly feck all, even MCN got it right (and that's saying something!) - Clicky Linky Thing. Buy it, ride it, when your two years are up whip the restrictors out and revel in the awesome power!

Just checking - you say you've replaced damn near everything in the ignition circuit, but I don't see "put a new spark plug in" - have you tried that yet? You may get a spark when holding it against the head, but it may fail under compression, and it's only a couple of quid so probably the cheapest option available.... Now pop over to the New Members Section and give us a wee intro before some of the grumpier members give you an opportunity to explore the ways of Tom Selleck, natural water features and a tasty snack ......!

Did you even pay attention to anything said on your CBT? Chain wear - as it slackens off, keep the tension correct using the adjusters at the rear of the swingarm. If you run out of adjustment and the chain is still hanging like a Portsmouth prossie's knicker elastic then the chain is fecked. If there are tight spots all over the chain, it's fecked. If the chain can be pulled away from the back of the rear sprocket, it's fecked. Sprockets - wear is evident when the teeth round off or start to hook over. Either way, replace chain & sprockets as a set, putting new chain on old sprockets (or vice versa) will only wear the new component that much faster. It's always worth paying more to get a known brand, DID and SSS chains are fine. I ride shafties so I don't care these days.....

Breaking the chain? Easy, just use an angle grinder or dremel to cut it, you're not going to be using it again so you can afford to be brutal. Don't cut the chain off before slackening off all the sprocket nuts (front and rear) - you can use the back brake to hold the sprockets still while heaving on a socket. Putting it all back together depends if it's an endless chain or one with a spring link. Spring links are simple, just hook the ends together and pop the split link over the posts (closed end towards the direction of travel!). Endless chains need the soft rivets squashed over - you can use a chain rivetting tool or careful use of a couple of flat-faced hammers, one either side of the rivet, will do the trick. Me? I ride shafties now, so you can keep your messy chains ......

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YHa_jqxnn4o

First: Scottoiler is an automatic chain lube system - Click me for details 2nd: Not a helluva lot, so .... BillyV - whenever I've fitted one in the past I've spliced into the vacuum pipe that works the fuel tap, there's generally the right sized T-piece in the fitting kit. If that isn't possible, just give the boys at Scottoiler a shout, they are very helpful and have a whole heap of experience getting them fitted to just about any bike on the market (except my trusty old H*nda, coz it's a shaftie!). You're welcome

Brake light banjo search on ebay - gotta be one there that fits ....

Microswitch, exposed position, British summer - bad combination. Ditch the crap prone piece of sh*t and spend a few quid on banjo switches (fleabay search for "brake light banjo"), can get 'em for £10-15. They're sealed unit pressure switches made (usually) of stainless steel so they're true 'fit and forget' items, once you've gone down that path you'll wonder why you ever bothered with the normal ones.

How's your air filter? Or the spark plug? I would check these before even thinking about pulling or fiddling with the carb - start with the simple stuff then work up from there. Also check the vent hole in the fuel cap is clear, if it's a bit blocked it can starve the carb of fuel.

Dunno anything about the XT, but it should be simple to locate the wire(s) coming from the tank and check to see if there is a short. For an on/off bulb it should be open circuit/closed circuit (resistance 0 or infinite/very high) or If the switch is operated by a float in the tank, is the float leaky and therefore full of fuel so it sits at the bottom? or Just disconnect the bulb and do what everyone else does, fill up according to the mileage.