Vez

Yes the black is the earth, i have run a wire from the black/green to the frame on a previous bike and it didn't work. The above method is the best way imo. The engine has not blown up as such, and was probably caused by a crash i was involved in back in April. Damaged bearing causing a rattle around the clutch, i don't think the bent rear spindle helped either. Welcome to the Forum btw. *makes note to let OG's tires down when possible.

Beat me to it . Edit. the engine blowing up is completely unrelated! Earth the wire behind the headlight and the PV will rotate the right way. http://www.yamahaclu...re-power-valve/ original thread. I'll post a pic on earthing the wire shortly Finding the block with only 3 wires leaving it and adding a small piece of wire to create an earth with the black/green wire to a black wire will make the PV work as Mr Yamaha intended and de-restrict the bike. HTH

Cheers for the help all. I'll phone the MOT center tomorrow and find out for sure.

What are C + U rules . And would a hole blanked off be considered a fitting i wonder. Definite phone call required me thinks

They only have 1 of the above headlights in stock, i intend adding a second when they get more in. There is one in the original light but the lens is cracked. Thinking about putting the original in and the new 1, if the MOT guy doesn't like the crack i will duct tape it up.

A pic would be nice, i like the WR styling but prefer 2-strokes so this sounds the best of both

I considered the daylight MOT route, but i will be riding this through winter and want to get it sorted first time around.

I thought all the WR*** range were 4-strokes and started at 250cc?

So i need to fit the light into the right side hole in the above pic?

Too far or me. Why not add it to the calender as well so people can see it on the main page

Having a bit of concern with fitting after-market headlight/s on my Sachs, thought i would ask and see if any one could help. I wondering if i would have any problems getting an MOT fitting just one headlight were there should be 2 and blanking the other hole up? Any comments or suggestions welcome.

Hi Dave, Welcome to the forums .

Nice looking bike Yes you are right on the oily silencer. A bit of gunk or WD40 or similar on a rag will shift it when you clean the bike. Post some pics/info if you decide to heat wrap the exhaust, something I'm considering atm. Looks like you have a basic luggage rack underneath the box, but if you do decide to sell it all let me know please.

LC means Liquid Cooled . But getting 100psi doesn't point to a leaky gasket, although it could be the case. Are you sure it actually started and didn't just sound like it had ? Easy observation to get wrong when bumping a bike and holding the throttle open. IF you are correct and it started but didn't have any power, and the bike has been stood, i would be looking at cleaning the carb out, especially the float bowl where the power jet circuit is. Think i would also be checking for mice nesting in the air box and also making sure there is fuel getting to the cylinder

Didn't expect that kind of fix from a dealer Think you should name and shame em tbh. Silicone sealant* ( bathroom kind of stuff) handles very high temps quiet well, used it as instant gasket for the cylinder head before now. *not to be confused with frame sealant though, which tends to clog the cooling system up when it melts

Ok as some of you may know i was messing about with a motor a few days ago. Well the motor was from a very rusty Powervalve Servo from a sachs xtc 125 ( Yam DTR engined). I thought i would post my findings in case it helps someone else out. Ok so it started when i realized the Servo wasn't turning at all while the bike was running. Upon investigation i found it to be rusty and seized solid. It was raining out so i thought i would entertain myself and try and fix it. Pulled the motor out, opened it up and coated it with WD40 in hope that would loosen it up. Well it did, but not all of it, so as I forced the motor round to free it up it went with a snap and started to move very easily . Turns out i had snapped the windings where they connect It was at this point i probably should have given up, but as i said it was raining out, so i was bored and also don't like to be beaten. With the help of a cordless drill and some screwdriver handles to hold the wire, the windings were removed. Well after many hours or winding, and a some advice and humor from Barkwindjammer, finally managed to get the motor back together, soldered up and looking right again. At this point i felt there was some hope it may work again. So i cleaned everything up, removed all the rust the best I could and reassembled everything. It was all going so well until it came to refit the gear on the end of the motor, which requires heating up slightly to fit it over the drive shaft. Being too keen to get it all back together, managed to overheat the cog and squashed it out of true while trying to get it back onto the shaft. So close yet so far . Still, I carried on in the hope the motor would work and maybe the cog wasn't too bad. After reassembling it all and connecting it upto the bike electrics I was very surprised when the motor made its zweek zweek noise to do its priming thing when the ignition was turned on. So the motor was working and the effort wasn't wasted. But, when the servo was connected to the power valve the strain was too much for the deformed cog and it started to slip and make a horrible noise. At some point I will take it apart again and see what can be done with the cog, and also get some more pics A pic of the circuit board from the PV in case anyone's interested.

Welcome to the Forums . Edit: You can get about 32 miles from reserve

If you had bought the alarm from www.motorbikealarms.co.uk ( think its the same as ebay), then phone up and talk to Nigel ( he makes them and is a one man band), hes a great bloke and will help you out. He spent no less than 30mins on the phone with me guiding me through fitting mine. Welcome to the Forum btw.

The inlets should not be polished on a 2-stroke. The surface is similar to a golf ball and reduce friction by trapping a thin layer of air (or mixture) and allowing the mixture to pass over them faster than a polished surface would allow.

Not a clue pal, but i think this may be the source of your problems. Maybe ask about a replacement at your local dealers. Only had problems with auto chokes on cars/vans, crap idea imo.

Only experience i have was an 07 ybr, and that had a orange light on the dash that would turn on at startup and then off once the bike was warm. With the symptoms starting after warm up, i would be looking at the choke.

Easiest way is to send the engine to Stan Stephens and ebay a kidney. If you are feeling mechanically minded, maybe clean the exhaust and transfer ports up a bit. Level the inlet port out a bit, the casting isn't great on DTR's. Polish the piston up every race or so. Source an earlier inlet manifold, or modify yours. And fit a snorkel from a Lanza. Skimming of the head is having a very small amount shaved of the face that joins the head to the barrel to increase compression. I would vote for an arrow exhaust system instead of the DEP.

Is the automatic choke working correctly? I.e does the light go out when its warm.