Tylerman

I for one would like to see a picture of this bike. Otherwise, good luck. There are lots of ways to remove a stuck cylinder. Depending on where the piston is stuck in the bore, some techniques may or may not work. If it is in a position where the transfer ports are open, you will have to find a way to block them off or else anything you pour into the cylinder will drain into the case and not go to work on the rings. I have in the past had to drill the top of a piston around the wrist pin, the chisel out what was left between the holes in order to remove the cylinder with the outer edge of the piston still in place, leaving the crown of the piston still attached to the small end of the connecting rod. Time consuming, but cylinder's are harder to replace than pistons.

Wilkommen Dog, these are super-simple bikes but carbs can be tricky. If you find that gas is not getting down to teh carb as OldGit suggested, see if you can safely siphon the gas out of the tank and unscrew the petcock (fuel valve). It may have garbage packed up around it blocking fuel flow, get a can of computer keyboard cleaner (compressed air basically) and blast air up into the pipe that the fuel line connects to. Set the valve at different positions to clear all the passages inside. Think of it this way, pretend you are trying to blow air INTO the tank through that valve. If there is flow from the tank to the carb, and you have a good spark, the next step is to check compression. Rent/borrow/buy a compression tester and give it a whirl. You should have at least 115-120 psi to get it running. If you are there, then you will need to take the carb off and clean the heck out of it. It is very common for a bike that has sat a long time to need a carb cleaning. In fact, if you do not feel confident enough to take it apart, but are brave enough to pull it from the bike, no shame in taking just the carb to a bike shop. Shouldn't cost too much, and it takes about a day as the parts have to soak in solution. Good luck, post up pictures if you got 'em.

Try www.nwvintagemotorcycleparts.com If they cannot find your Yammy part, then it must be a Kawasaki.

If I may ask, where'd you get the pipe? Admittedly I haven't looked hard for one but if you have a source, I'd lvoe to know it. Porting the engine isn't the end of the world, there's a dirtbike shop not far from me that works on RDs and other two-smokers that could probably do a little something for me, but they want a fortune for a custom made chamber.

Hell now I don't know, looking at an old picture my Maxim only had one disc up front, not two. I don't know about the seca.

I had a '81 Maxim 550, if I remember rightly those are Maxim wheels, but the axle was on the front of the fork lowers rather than on the bottom. So it looks like you've got a Maxim w/ Seca forks and "custom" bodywork. That is also not the stock pipe as it does not appear to have the collector beneath the engine. And yeah, the rear of the frame looks cut to hell. If you are trying to restore it to either Seca or Maxim spec, I would try to find a better example to start with. Good luck.

That's what I told him, on my RS100 and the old stock pipes on my Kwak triples that's how to pull 'em, but he swears there is no such hole. Maybe he just isn't looking hard enough. Thanks for the reply.

Anyone here know if the baffles can be pulled from the pipes of a CS1? I do not know the year, it is a friend's bike and I am not near it to help, but he tells me that he can find no way to pull the baffles out to clean/repack them. FWIW the bike is purple/white, I want to say 70 or 71. Thanks

I have been told that the LS1 and/or LS2 use the same forks. I cannot verify this, however.

Are you talking about a pod type filter or one to go in the original airbox? I have fitted an EMGO pod filter on mine, if I remember it was a 42mm throat, but I needed to scavenge a bent intake pipe as the filter interfered with the frame. I am currently using the original airbox and some oiled filter foam for now as I am trying to find an expansion chamber and don't want to re-jet just for the filter change, and then again for the pipe.

I've heard that's true with powder because it goes on thicker, but with paint it shouldn't be a big issue. Just sand the edges of the fins off for a custom look and to expose some aluminum.

Go to Harbor Freight tools, they sell an adjustable spanner type wrench (what you are looking for). I cannot remember how much, $20 or so. Very useful.

A decal? Not on mine, it is a rounded aluminum cover with three screw holes in it, it attaches to the left engine/sprocket cover. And if I am not mistaken Dead you have the same thing. Either way, yes count yourself lucky to have it.

The cover over the magneto on the left side of the engine. It has "Yamaha" embossed in it. Mine does not have it. Most that I have seen do not have it. I realize that in order to get to the points it must be removed, but I don't know why it would end up missing and so hard to find in so many cases. Anyway, count yourself lucky.

Lucky dog, you have the magneto cover, those things are like hens teeth. I know there's one on eBay right now, but they are generally hard to find. Overall looks really nice, you shouldn't have any problems with it. Certainly in better condition than the one I have.

1- Testing method can be done with a commong multi-meter, either someone here should know how for your model or you can find manuals online (for a fee) 2- Get an impact driver, the nut should pop loose. The flyheel might have a specific puller to remove it, using a normal two or three leg puller might break it. 3- Most old two strokes from that era that I've worked on have fixed timing, in other words there's no adjusting necessary or possible without machining the crank. 4- Again most two stroke bikes from back then with a magneto/point iggy could be run without a battery, but I will defer to others on this board with this model to verify that as true or not. Post up some pictures.

Ah man, I usd to have an 81 XJ550 Maxim but secretly lusted after the Seca version like you got. I ran hell outta mine for almost 17k before I sold it when I moved to Florida, great solid bike, needed nothing but tires and oil changes. Good looking bike ya got there, good luck getting it squared away.

Mine is also the Racing Green color with gold decals. Good luck wth this bike, and definitely post up some pictures. I had mine for years before I finally bothered with it and now I regret that I waited so long. Small bikes are a blast. Except the Buell Blast, ironically, they are dogs. However my Kona Blast mountain bike kicks arse and glows in the dark. Man, I've had too much coffee this morning.

Cool, happy to help. I got some differing opinions on my bike's lineage, I though for the longest time it was a 74, but from what I can determine Yammy didn't start making them until 75. Go figure. Rust in the tank is a no brainer, if you can get it in California try and find a product called evap-o-rust. Take the tank off the bike, screw the gascap on tight, put a piece of fuel line between the crossover nipples, and close the petcock, then fill that tank up with the stuff. Leave it for a day or two, turn it occasionally so the chemicals get sloshed around, your tank should look great afterwards.

Welcome, I just went through the process of getting an RS100 back on the road myself. First rule of any gasoline engine, It will run if it has three things: GAS COMPRESSION SPARK Couple questions to start with; -Does the engine turn over? If not, is the kickstarter stuck? In my case the kickstarter was stripped and wouldn't spin, but if I put the bike in gear I could push the bike forward and feel the engine turn. If the engine will not turn that way, well, it likely siezed the piston inside the cylinder and you've got big problems. If the engine is not stuck, buy yourself a compression tester (available at any auto parts store) and do a compression check. Remove the spark plug, crew in the tester, hold open the throttle and kick it over several times. You want at least 110psi after four or five kicks. Anything less than that and you will need to pull the cylinder head and cylinder and see what's wrong inside. It could be as simple as a new set of rings to get it back up to snuff. Do not be alarmed, this sounds daunting but it is very simple on this bike, and can be done with the engine in the frame. Don't go pulling your engine apart yet, though, check the other stuff below. -Do you have a spark? When you take the spark plug out, plug it back into the plug wire and hold it against the cylinder. Turn the key to the center position of the keyswitch, and turn the ignition switch to the run position. Be careful to hold the spark plug wire only, do not touch the spark plug or you could get a shock, and kick the engine over. With the plug grounded against the cylinder you should see a blue spark. It helps to do this in a dark place or at night if you are working outside. If you have a spark, you are in good shape, but if not then remove the cover over the left side of the engine to expose the flywheel. You can look through the windows on the flywheel and see the contact breaker inside, have a friend kick the bike over and look at the breaker (also known as a "point") to see if you have a spark there. If there is a spark, then the problem is between it and the ignition coil. In my case, the coil was bad, I found a good one on eBay for $15. Take the time to pull apart all electrical connections, spray them with contact cleaner, dab on some contact grease and snap everything back together. Go one wire at a time, and don't get frustrated. You do not need to remove the wires from the bike, but it helps to remove the gas tank and side panels. If there is no spark, the contact breaker can be cleaned and adjusted, we'll get to that later, its not tough. -Take the carburetor off, dissassemble it (you will need some small screwdrivers) set the choke plunger aside (it has rubber parts on it) and dip everything else in a 1 gallon can of carb cleaner. This stuff is available at auto parts stores. While you are there, grab a roll of gasket material and an exacto knife, you will need to make a new gasket for the carburetor float bowl. Again this is easy, just place the bowl down on the gasket material and trace the outside of it with the knife. The take the cutout and remove the inside of it leaving a 3/16" (approx) wide rectangular strip. Punch some holes in it at the corners so the screws can pass through and you are done. It can be frustrating but you'll get it. Once all the parts come out of the cleaner, rinse them in water and use compressed air to blow everythin dry, and to clear all the tiny holes in the carb body. Reassemble, turn the air screw in until it bottoms (go easy on it or it will strip) and turn it back out 1-1/2 turns. Reinstall on the engine and connect the fuel line. If you have compression, and you have a spark, and you have a clean carburetor, your bike should start. Give it a good going over based on what I talked about above and get back here for further info.

I would say http://www.nwvintagecycleparts.com/ to start,

For my RS100 I bought pre-oiled filter material in a sheet (usually 1 foot by eighteen inches) 3/4" thick at a local bike shop, then cut to fit around my filter frame. Not perfect but it works. If you use a "pod" stlye filter it could cause the engine to run lean, meaning you may have to adjust the carb.

Me too Maltatrucker, since the start february of this year. One thing I missed in that video was the bog in the throttle as I started to ride through my grass, and the "pop" in the throttle as I began accelerating. Cable adjusted on top of the carb was too loose, tightened that up and its much smother throttle response.

Don't forget to blow compressed air (keyboard cleaner in an aerosol can work well for this) through every passage after you dip the dissassembled carb overnight and rinse it all off. Something might be stuck in your low speed circuit. Make sure the air screw is set at the original position per the manual, after thet you might need to adjust the throttle cable at the top of the carb, too loose can cause bogging. Good luck.

Well she officially goes into the category of "Bikes I have Ridden". If anyone has never heard of www.nwvintagecycleparts.com in oregon, you should check them out. They specialize in Yammy parts, and supplied a whole bunch of the little stuff I needed to get this bike going, including the flat thrust bearing between the clutch basket and hub that arrived this morning. Once everything was buttoned back together, oil was poured into the appropriate places,, necessary switches were turned, cables were connected and adjusted correctly and the kick lever was kicked with sufficient force, she started right up and rode away. Click the link here to view it running down my street. There remains a short list of things to tweak, like the headlight bezel, replace the rear brakes, chain/sprockets, tires and of course get a title, but otherwise she is a runner and moves from the workshop into the carhold.