Classics

How to make an application for the retention of a vehicle's original registration mark If you own a motor vehicle whose registration mark is not held by the DVLA, you may still be able to successfully apply for the retention of its original registration mark. To retain the vehicles original registration mark you must however be able to provide documentary `proof` linking the machine to the registration mark. This proof should ideally be an old buff, or green, logbook. If neither is available then the following may also be considered at the discretion of the DVLA a pre-1983 tax disc or MOT certificate, or an extract from suitable approved archive records. If you …

just seen this on the aircooled site, handy to know http://www.tradeinpost.com/www.tradeinpost.com/yam1.html

Dont know if this has been here before ? looking back a few years . http://www.abacuscaralarms.co.uk/bikes/Test_Reports/index.html

Morning chaps, Been happening for a while now but more so when it gets hotter outside. Starts good when cold, drives and pulls like a train. My drive home takes 30 mins through some heavy traffic and filtering. When stopped at a traffic light or when I get home to open the gate the bike starts spluttering, misfiring and dies. At a a traffic light I have to keep the revs at or above 2000 rpm. Have looked at various forums but nothing conclusive ranging from carb settings, vacuum leaks etc. My bike shop guy has turned up the idle a bit and he thinks it may be the coils getting hot after a bit and might need to be replaced. Any ideas ?

Evening Chaps, Sorry I haven't been on the forum much. Still happily commuting on the 93 FJ-1200. Only used the car 4 times all winter. It has been a bit soggy at times and nippy but the heated grips are wonderful. Last few weeks I get a grinding sensation through my foot pegs only on the overrun and slow filtering through traffic. When I pull the clutch in it goes. The bike accelerates good, pulls like a train and goes through the gears well. It feels like a few cogs or chain do not quite agree with each other on the left hand side in the gear box. I changed lube oil last weekend and checked old oil but no bits (wh…

Hi, please can a fellow owner either explain where the different battery wires go or better still, share a photo. I’ve just noticed there’s no rectifier on the bike so I’ll need to order one. At the moment I know the - goes to earth but I’m not sure where the + goes. The bike has two red and one white wire with bullet connections. thanks in advance

Could someone please tell me how this is done. The Haynes manual explains that the top cover of the warning lamps compartment, which is retained by two screws under the mounting bracket must first be removed. It also says that all other models have the screws positioned on the top (the most practical place for them). I can see the screws but as they are obstructed by the headlight unit, this appears to have to be removed to gain access. I can't see how to do this, if it is necessary, nor does the Haynes manual offer any guidance. Thank you for any advice.

Me again! As I was tinkering earlier, the battery fell out and the cables got disconnected. The + is easy but what colour does the - connect to? There’s a white or a red. Also, I reconnected what I thought was the low oil warning light block, this is located near the oil tank. Once started, the horn stayed on. Slowly getting fed up! Thanks in advance

Hi and thanks for adding me to the group. I have a 1978 V75a, is it ok for the oil pump to be disconnected and run on pre mix? Pump already disconnected before I bought the bike I wasn’t sure if the oil was spraying directly into the internals. What is petrol/ oil ratio? What is the correct spark plug? Thanks

Having removed the head and barrel of my DT400E for painting, I note that the barrel is held on with 4 long nuts. On looking at the online exploded engine diagrams there appears to be what is described as a Washer plate that sits between the nut and the barrel (item 16 shown here Engine Diagram CMSNL). Given the appearance of the Washer Plate, am I right to assume that it is only a part required on first assembly as the serrations suggest it is a permanent install? I didn't retrieve these when I stripped the top end and having measured the distance from where the nut seats to the underside of the barrel (approx 33mm) and compared it with the minimum distance fr…

parts

Hi Bought a pretty knackered dt and it is missing the flywheel generator rotor . When going on ebay it seems that there should be a code to identify the rotor like FT260 or something I know the the part no is 576-81350-11-00 Frame 559 Am hoping it fits other bikes. Does anyone have the same year dt and if so could they let us know what the code number is. Thank you

Hey everyone, I purchased a 1969 Trailmaster the other day and when I picked it up it ran great but after taking it home on the back of my truck and starting it in my driveway, it idled far higher than it did previously. I'm new to bikes of any kind, especially carbureted 2 strokes and was looking for some help troubleshooting the issue. A friend and I started it up a couple times messing with the idle screw and decided it might be best to let it sit and adjust to the altitude change (from 4295 ft to 7000ft above sea level) because he said the same thing happened to a pit bike he purchased, and letting it sit for a day made all the difference. I tried starting it up today…

I've noticed that the top of my rear brake pedal is in contact with the underside of the silencer and there are clear signs of wear on both parts. I'm sure there should be clearance between the items and if left, could wear a hole in the silencer. The rear hub lever and brake rod have an angle about 90º between them, I'd always believed that this angle should always be less than 90, anything more than that is wrong. Or is that an old wives' tale? Would moving the hub lever, a spline or so on the shaft, make things any better? Any explanation of what's wrong or what I can do to fix it would be appreciated. Bike has a recent MOT so brakes should work OK. I had thought …

This is a follow-on from a previous post, 'RXS100 Spare Key', as it's applicable to any classic Yamaha or other bike with a simple key and warrants a wider audience. A company on EBay, 'Spare-Keys-4-u', was advertising the blank HON42 which my key was. I asked if they would tell me the length of the blank, as I wasn't sure whether the one in their illustration was the correct length. They asked me to send a photo, but I sent two, one of each face. I was told they could cut the key from the photos. I was sceptical but they offer a money back guarantee so I ordered one. I don't know whether it would work in every case, but I've tried the one I received today and i…

Having received only one key with the bike I thought it prudent to obtain another. Yambits will try to help if I can provide the key code which is written on the bottom of the ignition switch but I am reluctant to start taking the bike apart, at least just yet. As it's a very basic key, marked SILCA HON42, I asked Timpsons if they could cut me one. They had the short version of the blank, but not the longer, that I require. Strange to have different size keys with the same number. Timpson can obtain a 'long' blank within a few days. I asked what the cost would be and was told £30 for the first key and £15 for any additional ones. When I expressed disbelief at what I thoug…

Silly question, but how does one gain access to the filler cap? The Haynes manual explains that the dual seat pivots on the RH side and is opened by a key operated latch on the LH side. This should give access to it, and although I can see the cap just below the fuel tank, I can't see where the lock is, if there is one. Thanks for your help.

I've just acquired a 1990 RSX100 in fine condition, apart from a rusty exhaust which detracts from its appearance. The only company I can find with one for sale is Fowlers (p/n 5H5-14611-00), £201.82 including VAT! There are many companies selling RX100 ones (p/n 36LE46110000) from about £28 upwards. I thought the RX100 and RXS100 were much the same bike. Presumably the pipes are different but can anyone confirm this and explain why the price of the RXS one is so high. Buying an RX one and trying to make it fit is a tempting idea but probably not feasible. Has anyone any ideas? Thanks.

Hi all, I am finally sorting out the old DT125LC (1986) we've had in the shed for years. All stripped down, repainting lots of bits and in evenings doing the engine. Will be replacing seals and bearings etc. But the cylinder is worrying me since there is the space for the power valve with both end caps fitted but on opening it up it revealed there is no power valve in there. When we bought the bike years ago it was running and tootled around the farmers yard I bought it from but was in such a state that it was not fully testable. So I'm wondering if once rebuilt whether the engine will run well without a power valve fitted or will I just have loads of issues getting …