bralkan Posted April 3, 2008 Author Share Posted April 3, 2008 did you check the tensioner blades for wear, when the head was off? the tensioner is automatic, did you remove the 3mm bolt holding the tensioner closed to enable it to be bolted back in place? ( in the manual) No, I did not. I noted it in the manual but I had an extra set of hands and just had them hold it in place as I torqued the larger bolts in. I had looked at the blades and they appeared ok. but then again, I am not 100% sure on what I am looking for. I am going to try and get home early enough to take the cover off and check out what is going on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator drewpy Posted April 3, 2008 Moderator Share Posted April 3, 2008 No, I did not. I noted it in the manual but I had an extra set of hands and just had them hold it in place as I torqued the larger bolts in. I had looked at the blades and they appeared ok. but then again, I am not 100% sure on what I am looking for. I am going to try and get home early enough to take the cover off and check out what is going on. maybe try resetting your valves first and see if it makes a difference, also carb misbalanced could also cause rattling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bralkan Posted April 3, 2008 Author Share Posted April 3, 2008 maybe try resetting your valves first and see if it makes a difference, also carb misbalanced could also cause rattling. I can't check at the moment, but do the guides describe how to balance the carbs? I am pretty sure it goes over setting the valves. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator drewpy Posted April 4, 2008 Moderator Share Posted April 4, 2008 I can't check at the moment, but do the guides describe how to balance the carbs? I am pretty sure it goes over setting the valves. does in the haynes manual, its a universal thing with all bikes anyway. need a carb balancer though!! uses the stubs on the intakes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bralkan Posted April 6, 2008 Author Share Posted April 6, 2008 does in the haynes manual, its a universal thing with all bikes anyway. need a carb balancer though!! uses the stubs on the intakes. Alright, well once again I have proven my self... Tensioner blade was backwards. NO idea how that happened. I blame it on my buddy who was helping me... Anyways, bike is still burning oil. I guess the only thing it can be is a broken piston ring. THe left side fouls the plugs reaaaal quick. I replace the plug, lots of RPMS come back but so does the oil. Also, It is back firing (through the carbs; mostly / exclusivly right side) like crazy as well. I do not know if it is because the air filters are not on there, its cold, or what. But it wasn't doing it before. It tends to like the higher RPMS as well; idle or any low RPMS and the bike has problems. I re-adjusted the valves (had my friend dad do that who is a mechanic), so it shouldn't be those (they were not really out of adjustment anyways. I am looking at ebay for pistons / rings...unfortunatly it looks like the only ones available are for overbore. Which is fine, I can get it overbored, but eh.... ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator drewpy Posted April 6, 2008 Moderator Share Posted April 6, 2008 Alright, well once again I have proven my self... Tensioner blade was backwards. NO idea how that happened. I blame it on my buddy who was helping me... Anyways, bike is still burning oil. I guess the only thing it can be is a broken piston ring. THe left side fouls the plugs reaaaal quick. I replace the plug, lots of RPMS come back but so does the oil. Also, It is back firing (through the carbs; mostly / exclusivly right side) like crazy as well. I do not know if it is because the air filters are not on there, its cold, or what. But it wasn't doing it before. It tends to like the higher RPMS as well; idle or any low RPMS and the bike has problems. I re-adjusted the valves (had my friend dad do that who is a mechanic), so it shouldn't be those (they were not really out of adjustment anyways. I am looking at ebay for pistons / rings...unfortunatly it looks like the only ones available are for overbore. Which is fine, I can get it overbored, but eh.... ! it was easy enough to check the rings when you had the head off!! the carbs spitting back will be the absence of filters as the diaphram in the carb will have trouble lifting properly so making the mix weaker. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bralkan Posted April 6, 2008 Author Share Posted April 6, 2008 it was easy enough to check the rings when you had the head off!! the carbs spitting back will be the absence of filters as the diaphram in the carb will have trouble lifting properly so making the mix weaker. too true on the rings. But, I still have the problem of sourcing new rings. The best I have found is a used piston with rings on it. I think I'd rather just get the overbored pistons and have a shop get that all straightened out. If nothing else, I've learned a good bit (if by no other reason than I keep screwing up!). This has been the first time I have done any mechanical work beyond changing oils and headlights. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bralkan Posted April 6, 2008 Author Share Posted April 6, 2008 This fine sunday morning (actually, the weather kinda sucks) I rode it down the street and back a few times and got the engine nice and hot. When I parked it it smoked a bit, but not a lot. Not as bad as when i put the new plug in and it only came out of the exhaust pipe and not out of the exaust port on the cylinder (like it was at the start of this thread). Maybe the new plug is getting sooty and not sparking as well??? (I could take it out and check, but that chamber needs helicoil inserts and I am hesitant in fear of further damage of the threads) ANYWAYS, I put the air filters back on....and I don't know what it was - the stuff my friend's dad and I did, the filters, or what but the bike hauled ass. I couldn't get into 4th gear (Speed limt only 35!!). It also fixed the backfiring problem. I work on computers, doing so for the past 8 years (I am 23) and the more and more I work with them I swear there are ghosts in the machine (they do craazy shit they shouldn't). I am starting to think this bike is posessed...Its been a crazy ride restoring it these 6 months, and it still has more to go. But, as always, I appreciate the help I have gotten from this forum. It has been priceless. I may look into getting it overbored if not only to fix the burning oil problem but to get a bit more power out of the bike. Riding today it feels like more than enough power for me. I am not sure how much hps i'd get from the overbore. I can't find a pair of 1.mm or .75mm overbore, so I'd have to go with .25 or .5mm. Anyways, any advice on getting it overbored? The other option is to just ride the bike into th ground Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator drewpy Posted April 6, 2008 Moderator Share Posted April 6, 2008 well done on getting this far. overboring won't provide extra power only, restore the compression and hence the original power it had. there are a set of .25 overs on ebay at the mo' and you will need to give these to the machine shop so they can match the bores. when I have mine done here in manchester, he marked each piston to bore, so i know he knows his stuff. don't forget they need honing (45' cross hatch) to retain the oil on the bore. when I got my engine finished i read a school of thought that you should use mineral oil and thrash the engine for 20 miles, this breaks in the rings to the bores. it worked for me and i don't burn any oil at all. then you drain the oil and change filter and put in "whatever you use" oil! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bralkan Posted April 6, 2008 Author Share Posted April 6, 2008 well done on getting this far. overboring won't provide extra power only, restore the compression and hence the original power it had. there are a set of .25 overs on ebay at the mo' and you will need to give these to the machine shop so they can match the bores. when I have mine done here in manchester, he marked each piston to bore, so i know he knows his stuff. don't forget they need honing (45' cross hatch) to retain the oil on the bore. when I got my engine finished i read a school of thought that you should use mineral oil and thrash the engine for 20 miles, this breaks in the rings to the bores. it worked for me and i don't burn any oil at all. then you drain the oil and change filter and put in "whatever you use" oil! Do you suggest on doing the .25 as opposed to the .50 or 1.0 ? All of the rings and pistons on there for these 2nd and 4th overbore size have 2 available. Oh, and a pic of the bike. I've done what I can to make it look nicer... need to get some more of that black paint off it and perhaps get new / stock exhaust (no idea why the guy who had it put glass packs on it; sounds alright though!). It is amazing how much of a difference a new-non-ripped seat will make. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator drewpy Posted April 7, 2008 Moderator Share Posted April 7, 2008 Do you suggest on doing the .25 as opposed to the .50 or 1.0 ? All of the rings and pistons on there for these 2nd and 4th overbore size have 2 available. Oh, and a pic of the bike. I've done what I can to make it look nicer... need to get some more of that black paint off it and perhaps get new / stock exhaust (no idea why the guy who had it put glass packs on it; sounds alright though!). It is amazing how much of a difference a new-non-ripped seat will make. I'd check with yamaha, as its suprising how much stuff they still have on stock. +.25 is the next step, if you go for +1mm you have no more options, though i did see a conversion to 450cc in germany with opened valves and had to reline the barrels and cut the crancase mouths. i have the pictures and may post if anyone interested! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bralkan Posted April 7, 2008 Author Share Posted April 7, 2008 I'd check with yamaha, as its suprising how much stuff they still have on stock. +.25 is the next step, if you go for +1mm you have no more options, though i did see a conversion to 450cc in germany with opened valves and had to reline the barrels and cut the crancase mouths. i have the pictures and may post if anyone interested! I'd be interested. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoda Posted April 7, 2008 Share Posted April 7, 2008 I would stick to a .25 bore out if you need to do it. When you bore out, you are actually reducing the compression ratio unless you have the head skimmed. It is very improtant to have the valves lapped in for good gas seal otherwise you will lose power. You will probably have more luck honing the barrels to stop oil consumption than needing new rings but that is an inspection matter. Ensure that the carbs are set up correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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