Dtlc3 Posted January 19, 2012 Author Share Posted January 19, 2012 for starters the lever should be the other way round you will see the end of the lever is shaped to a point, somewhere out of view in the picture there is a marker on the casting (under the carb ?) well the point on the lever should line up with this just at the point it begins to push on the clutch pushrod, this is achieved by adjusting the screw and locknut in the centre of the clutch, there are two pushrods with a steel ball in between them. It might be that the ball is missing and thats why you cant see the rod down the hole ...who knows? also there should be a spring under the arm to pull it back as the cable tension is relaxed Hi there yea I have the spring just not put it on ATM,ant now it all becomes clear, I will investigate for the rod.thankyou airhead Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dtlc3 Posted January 19, 2012 Author Share Posted January 19, 2012 Update: Put the clutch arm facing the right way, and got the clutch to function of sorts, when you pull the clutch lever in it will move the rod that goes through the clutch pressure plate, but it won't move the pressure plate out to disingauge the clutch, iv adjusted the rod in as far as it will go, any thoughts ??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted January 19, 2012 Moderator Share Posted January 19, 2012 yes so long as nothing is missing (ie ball bearing) then if you push the arm anti clockwise until it stops (ie contacts the pushrod) you should then adjust the screw in the pressure plate until the pointer and casting mark align. do this and see if it's any better, you will then see the pressure plate forced open as you pull on the clutch lever If this adjustment isnt possible then perhaps the ball bearing is missing from between the two pushrods Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dtlc3 Posted January 19, 2012 Author Share Posted January 19, 2012 yes so long as nothing is missing (ie ball bearing) then if you push the arm anti clockwise until it stops (ie contacts the pushrod) you should then adjust the screw in the pressure plate until the pointer and casting mark align. do this and see if it's any better, you will then see the pressure plate forced open as you pull on the clutch lever If this adjustment isnt possible then perhaps the ball bearing is missing from between the two pushrods How big is the ball bearing is it the same size as the ones in the steering stem or is it bigger or smaller? Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted January 19, 2012 Moderator Share Posted January 19, 2012 i dont have a parts manual for your bike, however the one on my bike is 3/16 inch, I would guess yours is the same you would probably get one from a cycle shop (halfords) ? is yours missing, i dont know how you would know that especially with the engine in the bike where you cannot tip it to one side? again...on my bike the steering bearings are bigger at 1/4 inch, as i said before I would guess yours are also Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dtlc3 Posted January 19, 2012 Author Share Posted January 19, 2012 i dont have a parts manual for your bike, however the one on my bike is 3/16 inch, I would guess yours is the same you would probably get one from a cycle shop (halfords) ? is yours missing, i dont know how you would know that especially with the engine in the bike where you cannot tip it to one side? again...on my bike the steering bearings are bigger at 1/4 inch, as i said before I would guess yours are also I'm not sure if it is there or not,the pointer on the clutch arm is lighned up with the mark on te casing under the carb,I can't adjust the rod that goes trough the pressure plate,so if the ball bearing is in there then not sure what's up with it would sod pictures be of any help to you? Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted January 20, 2012 Moderator Share Posted January 20, 2012 if the operator arm stops moving easily forwards at about the point of the casing mark then the chances are the bearing is there, if it were missing the operator would go past the indicator i would think Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morpheuz Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 If this is being rebuilt, I'd use ester oil after, as it mingles with the water and renders it harmles unlike mineral oil, it will then boil off when hot, and its cleaning abilities is unmatched, I've seen ester been thrown into mineral users and all of a sudden dipstick black, oil filter blocked, and mud in the oil when drained. All gear changes are smoother too. Poor thing, give it some love. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dtlc3 Posted January 20, 2012 Author Share Posted January 20, 2012 Is that just normal engine oil like this stuff 310355196240 on eBay,or can you recommend some that I could use ?? Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dtlc3 Posted January 21, 2012 Author Share Posted January 21, 2012 if the operator arm stops moving easily forwards at about the point of the casing mark then the chances are the bearing is there, if it were missing the operator would go past the indicator i would think Hi there just like to thank you for helping me sort my clutch out, it is now fully working Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted January 21, 2012 Moderator Share Posted January 21, 2012 Great stuff stuart, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts