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    1st - Huoniao HN125-8 125cc 2nd - Yamaha XVS Dragstar 125cc

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  1. Bike wants to take in as much as its kicking out, and it cant with a closed intake, with the cone, it took in what it wanted, then kicked it out, with the bigger jet already in, it loved it. now with the throttle fully open, youre giving it all the air it can get, which is taking it closer to what the cone did, when closing it, the bike still kicks the waste out freely, but cant make up it with the increased intake. Open exhausts, and closed box intake, with bigger jet, maybe affectine the needle too, so could be rich depending on your setup at midrange. If a cone improves it, it suggests too rich. You'd be better off adding a free flow air filter, or lowering the jet and/or closing up exhausts. Simply adding a cone would probs be easier, then just make sure jets are set right. When you alter parts of the engine flow, jetting has to be set up right, or these problems happen. The 2 screws on the carb is one, for idle speed, its on the side and it pushes against a slant on the slide in the carb, same as opening the throttle slightly. The second, (upside down for most, underneath) alters the fuel, for idle speed only.
  2. I've taken the original one out, and it only has 15 on it. Does it have a code, or a specific carb type they are used in? 17.5 is what I'm going for, someone must know because there has been talk about them being changed.
  3. Hi people. Got a pod filter on my carb, no box or anything anymore, drilled exhausts, will be getting straight through pipes. Needle/main jet are sorted, however I cant keep turning out the idle mixture screw, plus its not really working. I think I need a bigger pilot, I can remember someone saying a 17.5 mod is better, but 18-19 may suit me, if I can get them. I was just wondering how or what the sizes are, and where to find them, I have been looking, but not sure what I'm looking for. I know the main jets have "5mm thread, 105# main jet" info about them, but not sure about the pilots taper/holes thread sizes if it has any. If anyone could point me in the right direction, I'd throughly appreciate it. Thanks. ~Morph
  4. Dont know about the headlamp, but can't spokes be tightened? Our place when finding a problem in an MOT fixes it during the test, then marks it fine, but just charges you for the fix, no need re-testing.
  5. Recently did up a mates 50cc, carbed 50cc bikes are easy, if you bang a cone filter on, its only worth it, if you make sure there are no restriction washers, (making the intake hole smaller). If its all open from the carb to the engine, then a cone will help, only if you up the fuel slightly, if not, it will run hotter and may stumble at times, and have little power increase. To up the fuel, its the jets in the carb, you may already know this, the idle mixture may need upping, it will be a screw located in the casing of the carb, outward turn, will keep it ticking over and starting fine. Then the main jet, up about 5-10 sizes, you'll have to check different sizes and see which is best, that should richen up midrange slightly too. 50cc's spend most of their time at wide open throttle due to their small power output, thats where the main jet is flowing, on any engine, wide open throttle shouldn't be lean.
  6. I've had my fair run ins with people, Ive had cars swerve in front of me in order to nock me off or stop me, I've been attacked on them, I really could do with fully comp, but Im on third party, costing 210 quid, I should have fully comp with this XVS nearly 2K when I bought it. However, at nearly a thousand pound a year, dont think so. £400 quid is nice for fully comp but, if your a good rider and go steady, and no one hates you enough to nick or wreck the bike I'd go for third party fire and theft, if its locked up, third party.
  7. I hope I'm not sounding obnoxious.... took a look at the previous post, and thought "hold on". I'm sorry if I am, not meaning to at all, I look at most things criticaly, and tell it how it is, and go about trying to fix it. Sometimes I go overboard, and sound rude, I remind myself of Dr House, off the drama, "House". Its scary how something so simple as a seal can ruin a whole engine, no one gets off their bike every ten mins to check it over, its very unlucky.
  8. The oil wasnt there, no matter how good the oil was, once its gone, its only a matter of time before all oil films are removed, and addetive barriers are worn off. All moving parts in the engine would have felt some stress and gone through a lot of wear, weather its salvagable or not, depends on how long it was running without oil. Opening it up, replacing any obvious signs of wear, would be a good start, with new, probably thicker oil, it may run ok. With it cutting out, it probably sounds like the pistons expanded due to excessive heat, overcome the engine power and stopped, it may have seized after that, who knows. Eitherway as much as I feel for ya ttaskmaster, irreperable damage will have been done.
  9. Yeah, could keep it, but there are tonnes of parts that will need replacing, probs easier to get a new engine like said. I wouldnt put new oil in and carry on like my mate did lol Few mins after setting off, BANG, comes walking back round corner with what appears to be half an engine hanging out.
  10. 5w-40 (ester) would be better, all oils are always too thick when cold, even though the label says the 'W' number is lower then the operating number. That only means a 10w-40 for example, would flow like a straight 10 weight oil would when cold, but would thin no more than a straight 40 weight would when hot. If you had a straight 10 weight, aswell as being too thick at startup, it would be too thin when hot, but if you had a straight 40 weight, though ideal at running temp, it would hardly flow at all when cold. So I always look at it, the lower the 'W' number the better protection at startup, its not perfect, but better then straight 40-50 weights. Ester is great for high temp running as it keeps its film strength a lot more then petroleum synthetics do, and seeing as though it softens and quietens down gear changes, aswell as keeping air/oil cooled engines cooler, 5w-40 would be great for your V-Twin, as it copes extremely well with V-Twin hotspots and noise. if you had a normal synthetic 10w-40 weight, and then an ester 10w-40 weight, the ester would flow a LOT better at start up, than the normal synthetic would. But obvs, the 5w-40 is best, I don't believe 0w-40 ester for motorbikes is currently available. I go in depth as you seem like you want to look after this bike, and from new, I would too! Too many people neglect engines these days, most tend to switch off when I start ranting this stuff, but as this is written down, I like to think its being taken in. lol.
  11. From new, I'd say 20w-50 is too thick, definately too thick at startup. If you ran 10 or 5w-40, your engine would last much longer due to flow getting to all the vital areas quicker, I know it probably reccomends the viscosity you mention, but it'll be based on old data. And that clunk is due to the crap oil they ship them with, and it being new, if you ran a 5w-40 ester oil, I would bet 20 quid it disapears. That stuff is amazing for smoothness of gear changes and engine operation. And no I'm not working for an oil company, I've just used this stuff for ages and its unbelievable, expensive but its like another warrenty. Almost impossible to blow anything up with it. I've had my brothers mates all come to me to get the stuff because it made their bikes all run like new. Thinner oil helps keep your machine cooler too.
  12. Morpheuz

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    The bike is the only thing I have to my name, If I had thousands, I would have, however I dont, so I'm trying to make the best of what I have.
  13. I think I'm going to add a double porosity foam filter, with an oiled trumpet sock foam filter on top. Got to be better than gauze right, and still offer filtration.
  14. Howdy, I think I know the basics.... paper filters better, but tends to be restrictive, oiled foam filters okish, and lets more air in... Foam on its own is fine for air, but filters shit, and cotton gauze, few layers, is more or less unrestricted, but invites everyone in.. I got rid of the paper element, due to it being far too restrictive, along with the intake box it was awful, and as soon as it developed a slight darkish colour, was even worse... I have put on a gauze, its great for air, but too much debris gets in, and seeing as through I was sandblasted by a HGV the other day.. I've decided to look into another type, probs foam, with an oil spray I'll buy. They are little 48mm cone ones, for xvs125. Whats everyones thoughts on filtration media? I think paper is out of the question due to its crap flow, but it sure does filter good. Ive been looking for a free flowing paper cone with no luck..... you reckon oiled foam is ok? Thanks peepz.
  15. You'll need to work out where its running lean, and adjust the jets for that position accordingly, roughly half open throttle is your needle, and fully open is the main jet. Bigger jet sizes is more fuel, you need to know your stock sizes and up a few sizes to which is best. Make sure you get the threat size right too.
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