2enjoi2 Posted August 12, 2008 Share Posted August 12, 2008 how is it done? ive turned mine full circle and stil no noticeable difference. are you ment to lift the fron wheel off the floor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cov_AL Posted August 12, 2008 Share Posted August 12, 2008 I assume you're adjusting the front pre-load (on your fork springs), It will be subtle, one turn is only compressing/releasing the spring by about 1mm. This is why you will often see people's pre-load wound completely out. If you want really noticeable difference, you could try after-market springs - Hagon's are good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2enjoi2 Posted August 12, 2008 Author Share Posted August 12, 2008 I assume you're adjusting the front pre-load (on your fork springs), It will be subtle, one turn is only compressing/releasing the spring by about 1mm. This is why you will often see people's pre-load wound completely out. If you want really noticeable difference, you could try after-market springs - Hagon's are good. ok, cheers for the advice. only reason im doing it is because whoever owned it last had it set to 5 notches on one and 7 on the other. doesnt feel too bad but then again i havnt riden it set right yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cov_AL Posted August 12, 2008 Share Posted August 12, 2008 To be honest, you'll be fine if you just set them somewhere near the middle... (as long as they're even) If your doing a lot of racing then it might be worth tinkering, but for if its just for sunny weekends then don't bother... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R1evad Posted August 12, 2008 Share Posted August 12, 2008 The preload on front and rear springs is only designed to set the bikes ride height and load capacity for a given bike / rider combination. It only has the function of adjusting the static sag, ie the amount of movement taken up from fully extended to loaded, the way you will ride it. ( for a better explanation go to the Ohlins link. It doesnt matter what make your suspention is, the principles are the same) http://www.ohlins.com/Motorcycle/Settingup...59/Default.aspx Once you have the preload adjusted for your weight. (most manufacturers std settings are not too far off) It is the DAMPING that makes the diference to the way the bike handles on the road / track. In general you use softer (less damped) settings on the road, so all the bumps and dips are soaked up without being too harsh a ride, and stiffer settings for the (sometimes) smoother tracks, which tend to be a bit more consistent, more of the time. The only time you should need to adjust the preload (usually on the rear shock) is when you carry a pillion or luggage. The PRELOAD DOES NOT ADJUST THE STIFFNESS OF THE SPRING, just how much of it you have used up prior to compressing it when you actually ride. Front springs should always be set to the same setting as each other, so they compress and rebound in unison. As cov_al says,The only way to change the STIFFNESS of your springs is to replace them with after-market ones (or new standard ones if you have a really high mileage bike and they have become soggy) To find out if yours are worn, take them out and measure the length. compare this with the free length quoted for new ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2enjoi2 Posted August 12, 2008 Author Share Posted August 12, 2008 thanks for all the advice guys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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