mickt26

You can cobble together a quick fix using a bicycle brake cable, a cable clamp (like you get on MTB V-brakes) and an 8mm socket. Fit the cable in the lever as normal, and thread the other end through the socket (through the square side, so the tapered end will sit in the cable stop on the cases) and use the cable clamp to lock the cable in the clutch actuator arm. It's not pretty, but it works, and can get you back on the road without having to wait for a cable to be delivered Mick

It was all change from 2000-on. My flywheels are different to that one. The rivets are further from the centre and there are 6 holes the same distance from the centre as the rivets. Oh well, looks like I'll have to get one from a Yam dealer £££££££££££££££££££ Cheers for your help, Mick.

Cheers for that Don. It looks the same as the RD350 YPVS puller I've got. What years are your DTs? There's no threaded section on either of my flywheels for a puller to screw into

Don, Sorry to be a pain in the arse- but which one? I did a search and came up with 3 or 4 different ones. The MX puller is the same as a 350 YPVS I think (27 x 1, LH thread) and the generic 'fits most Jap bikes up to 175cc' looks to have a large threaded section which won't work on my flywheel as there's no thread to screw into. What does the 'proper' puller look like? Cheers, Mick.

Right. I've got a spare (lightened) flywheel that I want to stick on my '01 DT and the puller I've got (350 YPVS) doesn't fit . I (stupidly) assumed that it would, being another Yam and all, but no. Does anyone know of a suitable puller (M&P?) that'll work on my DT? Or a cunning trick that'll work (I dunno, something involving levers and pulleys, I'd imagine). Or am I going to have to bite the bullet and stump up for a genuine Yamahahahahaha part? Cheers, Mick.

Hi all, I'm considering putting a YZ250 engine in my SZR660 chassis (660 engine long gone, RD350 YPVS waiting in its place) to go racing in the Bemsee MiniMono class. The only (obvious) hurdle is the cost of a good, late model YZ250 lump. Does anyone have any idea how much a '98-on lump would cost? Cheers, Mick.

Hai, Daniel-san.

Quick/powerful? Well, a stock 350 F2 makes 63bhp (claimed) so they're fast enough. As ashamed as I am to admit it, I've never ridden an RD of any description I hope that'll change though. I just wanted more power and swapping the 660 thumper for a 350 stroker twin seemed the best and most fun way to go. I could've thrown a few hundred quid at the 660 but what's the point? It'd still be a 4 str*ke And everyone knows they suck Go to http://www.yamaha-rd.com if you want some more info on the RD. Interesting? Yes, if you like 80s/90s 2 strokes And they're infinitely modifiyable (is that even a word?) Mick.

Lol! Had 2 of them! They are a hoot too... The TZR125R is the looker though, and the TZR250 3XV (v-twin). They look pretty much the same (same frame-ish)... except you can put TZ250 barrels and pipes on the 250 TZR125RR- Italian import; more power but dodgy looks, same frame as the TZR250 3MA (reverse cylinder) Thing is though, once you get used to the power you'll want more. That's when you buy an RD350 YPVS and transplant the engine... http://uk.geocities.com/mickt26 But try http://www.tzr250.plus.com for more info and pics of TZRs. Mick.

Oh, and you've got to derestrict it 'properly'. None of this fancy-dan powervalve servo nonsense. Just peg the valve open and wait for 7000rpm... Nothing...nothing...nothing... FUUUUUUUUUUN Mick.

Totally different engines. The DT125LC has the same engine as the RD125LC and the TZR125 is the same as the early DT125R. It's a chuffing great little bike though. If you decide to get one, don't try and change the rear wheel for something a little wider and 17" (stock is 2.5" x 17"- skinny) because it's near enough impossible. And don't buy that one. It's an early (2RK model, tubed tyres) one with the 16" front wheel and rear drum brake. Try and get one of the later 3PC2 or 3PC3s ('90-on, I think) with the 17" front wheel and rear disc. For the record, I got an indicated 100mph out of mine :D. Chuffing brilliant. Mick.

What you after? I've got a few stroker sounds (various RDs, 250 'crosser) on my PC at home I could mail you, and a Yam M1 start-up/ride-past too

Hi, No. TZR125 forks are skinny 33mm jobbies, and the DT's are a bit fatter. And longer. And the wheel spindle is a different size. And the caliper mount's on the wrong side. Have you tried ebay or Partfinder? Mick.

That sounds like a good place to start- try a different coil and see what happens. It's crap when your bike knacks up on you, but keep at it and you'll get there. Mick.

It's the thing sitting next to the flywheel/magneto that sends the message to the cdi to fire. Looks like a little coil with 2 wires coming out of it. While you're poking around in there, you may also want to check on the condition of the flywheel/magneto and the source coil (where the CDI is charged from) and lighting/charging coils (which power the bike's system). Check for rust/corrosion and moisture. It may be worth giving everything a good blast of WD40. If they're suspect then you'd get a spark outside the cylinder but there wouldn't be enough current to fire the plug in a high compression, oily, wet atmosphere (the cylinder). Mick.

Try checking the resistance of the pulser coil- it should be around 280-420 ohms. If it's nowhere near that could be the answer and you'll need a new one. Do you have any mates you could borrow one off to check? And buy a fresh plug. You might think you've cleaned the other one but there could still be some crud on there causing the spark to short across the terminals, rather than ignite the fuel. Mick.

Whereabouts are you? Anywhere near NE England? And- sorry to keep banging on about it- did you use a new plug? When you checked for a spark was it nice and big, or feeble and crappy? Mick.

No worries. No need to type more than you have to, eh? Right. So you've got a new piston, rings and everything's the right size for the bore? Has it been rebored or was the bore ok? if it's a nice fresh top end then compression shouldn't be a factor. The weird sound you mentioned- is it kind of a gurgling noise? It's possibly fuel being pushed out the exhaust port after it's failed to start. Turn the fuel off, remove the spark plug and kick it over a few times (remember to ground the plug or you can damage the CDI) This should get rid of any excess fuel. Refit a fresh plug, ignition on, kill switch on, choke on, and kick it over. Mick

It's just Mick... Did your mate check that the reeds were seating and sealing properly against the cage? If the reeds are tired then they may not be sealing properly. And a brand new plug that's fouled is still a fouled plug. Buy some more (plugs). There should be an oil line coming from the oil pump going to the carb mounting rubber (where the carb attaches to the reed cage, IIRC). If there isn't then it's possible the bike was being run on premix anyway. Is it a road bike, or a play bike? And you still haven't told us if it was running when you bought it. Mick.

This might be stating the obvious, but are you using a fresh plug each time you check if it's fouled or not? Try checking the float height too- if it's set wrong then that could lead to the plug fouling problem. Also, on a 15 year old bike the reeds may be a bit tired- have you checked them? Even if they aren't chipped or damaged they may well be too worn to seal properly. What exactly was done to the engine and who by? Was it running when you bought it? The oil on the plug threads may just be from unscrewing the plug and bringing oil up on the plug end into the threads- refitting into the head will leave a trace of oil on the threads and subsequent removal will also show oil. If all else fails, try removing the oil feed from the carb rubber and running the feed into a plastic bottle or something zip-tied to the bike. Blank off the oil feed on the carb rubber using a small length of oil line with a bolt or something pushed into the open end and try running the bike on a little premix (fresh fuel at 32:1 with a good oil) to see if it is the pump which is set wrong. It's not hard to do and doesn't have to be a permanent change, you're only checking if the pump's set right. Mick.

Probably doing me test on a CG125 in full power-ranger leathers... (hey, I had a TZR125 )

Renthal bars are an absolute must. Here's my old TZR250 2MA after I had a go at it... I ended up breaking it and now really wish I hadn't Mick.

Or potter along in first, at around 5000 rpm, squeeze the front brake a little to get it to dive and release it again quickly, as the forks unload give it some more throttle and it should come up on the throttle. Just be ready on the back brake if it comes up too sharpish... Mick

OK, peace and quiet at work... When you do a top end with the engine in the bike you need to make sure the areas around the head and crankcase are nice and clean and free from any bits of crud that might drop into the case, because that would be A Bad Thing. Once you've done a top end, the next time will be loads easier. Just make sure you've got plenty of time and don't need the bike for a day or two, just in case, and make sure you order all the bits you'll need before you take stuff apart- it helps... Mick.

They genuine? Or is it a newer clock? No problem. Reeds can chip through age, general wear and tear, that sort of thing. A top end rebuild/refresh is fairly straightforward, but if it's your first go at it you'd be best off giving a whole weekend over to doing it properly. It'll cost around £30 if you just do the rings, around £70 for the whole lot (piston & bearing). Budget £100 if you want to rebore it. You'll need; 1 genuine Yam head gasket (it's really not worth skimping on this one) 1 base gasket New rings (at least) New piston & little end bearing if you're doing the whole lot. Torque wrench A Haynes or workshop manual. I'll write more tomorrow 'cos the missus is shouting at me now Mick.