Dave C

The recomended 2.5 turns out is only a common starting point, but 7 turns is a lot. I`m wondering if its flooding, has it been off the road for any lenght of time, if it has the carbs may need a good clean.

Just wondering if i have 2 part numbers the same except for the first part would they be the same parts just for different models Like 4H7-82320-61-00 and 4G0-82320-61-00 so i`m thinking 4H7 and 4G0 are model numbers and the rest is the actual part number. I think i just confused myself

I heard that most of the harleys that were built are still on the road today, although some did manage to make it home

i had a look in the parts catalouge and it looks like yamaha only supply the complete part, but have a look at this site and you can see the rebuild kit. http://shop.wemoto.com/index.dyn I`m sure you could find a similar supplier where you are. I`m guessing you are in the US so i tried ebay and came up with this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FJ1200-FZX7...tem360026447810

You can get a rebuild kit over here in the uk its around £12 ($24). You could try ebay as its normally a good source of parts for older bikes.

Welcome back, i am also a returning biker after a 15 year layoff and it feels great to be riding again, current mount is a 1982 xj650, would have prefered a RD350 YPVS but the XJ was such a bargain i could not turn it away. As a side note i currently have 2 sons doing a year long backpacking tour of OZ and they are loving every minute of it. My only complaint is they have gone from beer and lager swilling louts to wine drinkers cos its a lot cheaper they reckon. They have been to sydney, at present in melbourne and talking about driving upto perth in a few weeks.

Yes i think its normal for the bike, mine was the same and also the same on the shiney black tar stuff they use to join road surfaces. Unfortunatley i cant remember the tyres i used as it was 15 years ago, would love another one but cant afford the price they fetch now.

Think with tyres you get what you pay for, BT45 are good wet or dry, if i remember right stock replacements are just basic tyres and do nothing bad but by the same token do nothing well, it will get exciting in the wet. I think its just down to what you can afford and how spirited a rider you are.

sounds like the switch(the plastic thingy)either needs adjusting, cleaning or replacing.

Going back to the first post, you bought it a couple of months ago and just had it shipped. Well if its just been stood i guess the battery will be totally flat, they are small batteries and wont hold a charge for to long.

Has the bike got a kill switch on the bar controls

Catapult effect with braces or you could get a tow from a bmx

It might not be flooding but i still think a good clean and set the mixture properly will sort most of the problems. Mine would start fine from cold and run great but stop it and try to restart you had to wait 5 mins. That was sorted by a quarter turn of the mixture screw as it was running a bit lean.

I would start with the earth leads, had a similar problem on my old xj, pressed starter button and the tacho went crazy. It turned out to be bad earth connections.

The correct spanner is a C Spanner but if you dont want to purchase one i have known them to be adjusted with a hammer and a punch

To adjust the head bearings it would be number 8 in main picture, normally 2 together i think to lock them against each other.

If its been sat for 4 years i would def clean the carbs and pay extra attention to the small jets and drilling in the float bowl and carb body as they control the slow speed running of the bike. Mine had been sat for 7 years and i had to let the float bowls sit in thinners for 2 day to soften all the gunk and then blew it all out with compressed air, took several attempts as a lot of the jet sizes are minute.

not sure what you mean but i can have a guess. If the belt seems to small to fit over the gears has the rear wheel got adjusters on the end of the swinging arm. If it has you will have to slacken the rear wheel spindle and the adjusters on the end of the swinging arm and push the wheel forward. Once you have the belt fitted tighten the adjusters to get the right tension on the belt, make sure the rear wheel is lined up properly with the front and retighten the spindle.

I would go back to the steering head bearings, get someone to push the rear of the bike down so the front is of the floor. Check the bearings by turning the bars and if it feels at all notchy they need replacing(taper roller prefered option). Also hold the wheel pointing forward let it go and give it a slight tap on one side then repeat on the other, steering should travel to its stop with very little effort, if it doesn`t the head bearings are to tight.

Picked this 1982 XJ650 up back in november last year and its just about ready to go back into service. It had been stood since 2000, carbs cleaned fresh fuel oil change and it started on third attempt, not to bad i thought.

Here is a link to an online manual, its not the needle valve you alter its the tab on the float that sits on the needle valve, and you just bend it slightly to get the desired hieght. http://www.rcscooter.net/manuales_taller/yamaha_tzr_50.pdf A haynes manual would be a good purchase as it has a lot more detail. Checking the float hieght is easy to do but difficult(for me anyway) to explain, somebody else may be able to. If you have a haynes for any other bike the procedure is the same just the hieght will differ, you will find the hieght in the online manual.

If its running rich and altering the mixture screw makes no difference i would say its flooding and the float hieght needs checking or the float needle valve is sticking.

not sure of any of it, as i said its from somebody else on another forum but it sounds about right.

Dont know if it will help but found this link http://www.r1messagenet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=89