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Alfiestorm

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Alfiestorm last won the day on October 13 2021

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  1. I done bit more, I bought a black mudguard, couldn't wait for the weather to warm up and I also painted the calipers black, that caliper paint is quite hardy stuff it dont seem to mind it being a bit cold just took longer to dry.
  2. I use a pair of DTR 125 carbs they are 28mm flat slide mikuni TM. The throttle slide needles could do with replacing so I bought a couple of repair kits and it turned out that the throttle needles in the repair kits are way shorter than the original. Been on the Fowlers site and genuine Yamaha is £75 each Allens performance do not stock them or get them as apparently they were made by Mikuni especially for Yamaha. Would anybody know what repair kit year I need to get or anywhere that can supply the throttle needles aftermarket or genuine at sensible prices. Thanks
  3. Went out for a test ride yesterday and it all works very well. The front brakes are fantastic and my only criticism is there is not enough lever travel for my liking which I will sort out. A few adjustments needed to re-route throttle cable as the revs rise a bit when the bars are turned full lock to the right, as well as the mudguard going black when the weather warms up the brake calipers will also be painted black.
  4. Another update, Suzuki SRAD 750 clip-ons fitted and used the original SZR fixing points on the top yoke.
  5. Handle bar arrangement has changed from the ace bar idea after a mock up. It just did not suite the bike. So i have a pair of SRAD 750 clip-ons on the way after being sent the wrong one first time round. They have a one inch rise so maybe the perfect bars maybe. Meantime i now have matching wheels, I was going to take the rim tape off the front wheel but then found out it is lacquered over so had to fit the other SZR rear wheel. Fitted my original power RS tyres. Painted the chain guard gold to match the gold highlights on the forks and bottom yoke.
  6. Ah the 1kt MODEL same great engine as my R1-Z, I know some cheap easy tuning tricks with these engines which takes them to a whole new level of fun and still keep the reliability. Have fun
  7. After a bit of fecking about with the bottom bearing, problem was the R1Z bottom bearing is shorter than the SZR one, so with the new r1z bearing fitted to the bottom yoke the yoke rubbed on the frame, was an easy fix but did require another new bearing. I made a 5mm spacer made out of a moped clutch nut to sit under the new bearing. Also done the lock stops which was a simple drill tap and nut and bolt job,basic but does the job superbly.
  8. Time Left: 2 days and 20 hours

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    Breaking this SZR660 which was made to look like a TZR 3MA USING 3MA parts for spares Engine is very good with low kilometres 14669k's this is backed up on the uk gov site mot history, they say miles on there but is actually kilometres, comes with starter motor and stator windings and oil tank and exhaust down pipes. £400 Regulator/rectifier £40 SOLD Starter solenoid with rubber holder £12 CDI £80 SOLD Fuel tank is off of a TZR125 4DL Belgarda which is the only one to use a plastic fuel tank in good condition comes with tap but no cap £100 SOLD Front brake master cylinder with adjustable lever comes with matching clutch lever £40 Gear change lever and linkage, lever is adjustable £20 SOLD Frame sold pending payment SOLD Swingarm sold pending payment SOLD Rear showa shock sold pending payment SOLD Complete TZR250 3MA body work £200 SOLD TZR250 3MA genuine seats in good condition £70 SOLD Handle bars pair £20 Will add more of the parts later, All prices are excluding packing and posting, Collection from my home in Portsmouth if you wish.

    NO VALUE SPECIFIED

    Portsmouth, Hampshire - GB

  9. I have started to fit the SZR66O front end to the R1-Z
  10. Wondered what happened, I had only just joined with a year subscription and then it went tits up.
  11. Yeah I was thinking of zeeltronic but they are a bit pricey once you take into account set up as there are no base line ignition maps with it, so I think a rolling road will be needed to lessen the chance of doing some damage. Some people reckon around 5bhp can be gained.
  12. I am breaking a good low miles SZR660
  13. These were JDM only.I bought it from an importer in the UK in April 2019 for £2k in need of a complete engine rebuild which I done myself except the crank rebuild and rebore work, replaced all the rubber bits except the radiator hoses they are in good condition and got it on the road in July 2019.It only had 9k on the clock but had been stood for many years in Japan. Total cost of buying the bike and fixing it in totally standard trim then registering was £2.8k. Since then I have bought other stuff and spent around another £800 ish but that was my choice.After getting it on the road in standard trim it was time to start thinking about making an already fun bike even more hilariously fun bike for a 250. So heres what I have done so far. YSS suspension back and front. Soon to be fitted usd front end off of a SZR660 Michelin power RS tyres Fork brace from Taiwan but most likely China, changed the chocolate bolts for stainless ones apart from that its well made and works well. Martin Johnson chambers (bloke in Devon makes them) with TYGA cans. Changed out the restrictive 26mm TM carbs for two 28mm TM carbs from DTR 125's with the added bonus of the dt carbs having air screws. the idle adjuster on the right hand carb needed moving from the left side of the carb to the right side which was easy as Yamaha had left a threaded blind hole so all that was needed was to drill through and fit the iidle screw and blank off the other one. The air screw however cant be moved but a longer thin screw driver does the job. Polished the cylinder head domes Cleaned all the rough casting lumps and bumps from the transfer ports and smoothed them and knife edged the web. Removed the hump in the exhaust ports and removed casting marks then lightly polished the ports. Removed the snorkel or pig nose from the airbox. Barend mirrors fitted, they look a shit load better than stock and suit the bike well I think. Carbon reeds. Removed the KMH speedo and fitted an MPH one from a TZR125 only reads up to 100mph (yeah mate it goes off the clock ) though it was a straight fit in the case. Will now be fitting the speedo from the SZR660 as it reads up to 120mph. Fitted the SZR660 rear wheel as it allows a 150 section tyre rather than a 140 section tyre. The wheel is a straight fit no messing with spacers or anything and the R1Z sprocket hub is a straight fit to the SZR wheel. The carb jetting is 260 main, 35 pilot and needle clip is central. Will get it on the rolling road one day to see actual rear wheel bhp but stock they are 45bhp at the crank The result is a bike that handles very very well around the bends and goes very very well in a straight line too.I decided not to have the bike re painted as I like the look of its crusty appearance and the small dent it has in the tank gives it character and is part of it's history.The rusty bits I treated with Kurust to neutralise it. I had to paint the front wheel as the original finish had surface corrosion from when it was standing for many years and did look horrible. A few random pictures of the work I have done to it.
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